RippyD
Active member
- Jan 24, 2016
- 1,258
- 4
Am I the only one running Rupes 4" pads on a GG6 with a 3" backing plate? I've struggled to find 3" pads I like on the GG6. Here's what I can remember trying:
LC 3" Flat Pads: These are terrible for me. Far too soft and can sling like crazy. They deform all over the place even with pressure. Surprised I haven't read more about this. And yes, there's a rookie aspect to this in terms of taking pressure off a spinning pad.
Griot's 3" Boss pads: These are good. They're thin which keeps the pad spinning. Being thin they're also less good in on curves and tight spaces.
Hex Logic Pads: I could take them over the 3" LC flat pads, but am not crazy about them. Cut is ok but they seem to load up almost immediately so I can't get work done.
Several 3" MF Pads: None of these have been great. Cut is ok but they load up and flatten out far too quickly. Having to stop and blow air too frequently. And they're far too thin for curves, tight spots, or or ridges - almost no padding at all.
After too much frustrated I decided to try some Rupes pads. They're open cell rather than closed. They're 4" pads with a 3" base so they fit a 3" backing plate.
Rupes 4": The Rupes pads seem to cut faster for me and still finish well. What would take me many passes with an LC flat pad seems to get done in 2-3 passes with the Rupes pads. They're not perfect on the GG6 - you have to work to keep them spinning. They can also load up, especially with AIOs. I'm cleaning pretty frequently, but not like 3" MF pads. I seem to get better and faster results with these in terms of defect removal than with the other two. They're thick but firm, so they have the padding needed for curves but don't compresses easily like the LC flat pads. They have beveled edges, which seems to help with tight spots.
The blue pad has huge cut. It seems almost like a dedicated defect removal pad. The yellow is great for light to moderate defects on medium to hard paint. They yellow is just a great pad - will finish well with an AIO or a polish. I don't have any Rupes white finishing pads. Not sure when I would need them. Note that I have only used these on hard paint. I suspect the blue (and maybe green) would be too aggressive for soft paint.
Please let me know if I'm missing something obvious with the other pads or if you think there's a better option than the Rupes for small pads. This all about getting better results more reliably for me.
LC 3" Flat Pads: These are terrible for me. Far too soft and can sling like crazy. They deform all over the place even with pressure. Surprised I haven't read more about this. And yes, there's a rookie aspect to this in terms of taking pressure off a spinning pad.
Griot's 3" Boss pads: These are good. They're thin which keeps the pad spinning. Being thin they're also less good in on curves and tight spaces.
Hex Logic Pads: I could take them over the 3" LC flat pads, but am not crazy about them. Cut is ok but they seem to load up almost immediately so I can't get work done.
Several 3" MF Pads: None of these have been great. Cut is ok but they load up and flatten out far too quickly. Having to stop and blow air too frequently. And they're far too thin for curves, tight spots, or or ridges - almost no padding at all.
After too much frustrated I decided to try some Rupes pads. They're open cell rather than closed. They're 4" pads with a 3" base so they fit a 3" backing plate.
Rupes 4": The Rupes pads seem to cut faster for me and still finish well. What would take me many passes with an LC flat pad seems to get done in 2-3 passes with the Rupes pads. They're not perfect on the GG6 - you have to work to keep them spinning. They can also load up, especially with AIOs. I'm cleaning pretty frequently, but not like 3" MF pads. I seem to get better and faster results with these in terms of defect removal than with the other two. They're thick but firm, so they have the padding needed for curves but don't compresses easily like the LC flat pads. They have beveled edges, which seems to help with tight spots.
The blue pad has huge cut. It seems almost like a dedicated defect removal pad. The yellow is great for light to moderate defects on medium to hard paint. They yellow is just a great pad - will finish well with an AIO or a polish. I don't have any Rupes white finishing pads. Not sure when I would need them. Note that I have only used these on hard paint. I suspect the blue (and maybe green) would be too aggressive for soft paint.
Please let me know if I'm missing something obvious with the other pads or if you think there's a better option than the Rupes for small pads. This all about getting better results more reliably for me.