Rupes Keramik (yellow) dust

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ARTB155

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Anyone experienced that Rupes Keramik paste produce some amount of dust - not hyper dusting but lot of if we consider that is finishing paste.
I use it with Rupes Yellow pad on LHR15 Mark II and primed per Rupes instructions (4 dots, work for some 20-30 seconds on speed 2, add 2 drops and start polishing) it start to dust before pad is saturated with product.
 
ARTB155 said:
Anyone experienced that Rupes Keramik paste produce some amount of dust - not hyper dusting but lot of if we consider that is finishing paste.
I use it with Rupes Yellow pad on LHR15 Mark II and primed per Rupes instructions (4 dots, work for some 20-30 seconds on speed 2, add 2 drops and start polishing) it start to dust before pad is saturated with product.
Click to expand...

Working for 20-30 seconds is when using the green or blue pads, Keramik with yellow pad can be used as normal, 4 dots and start polishing after spreading.
 
Rupes does not exclude yellow and white pads from priming procedure and little bit working before help to seften the pad.
Depends of outer temperature it does not have to be for 30 sec but still it needs some priming before.
Btw I try to work without priming and it still dust
 
Try Keramik the way I mentioned above and see if improves, that’s the way I've been using it for years without issue.
 
Reduce the size of your drops.

There are times I'll even use one drop.

This whole system is counterintuitive. The pads should never feel wet, soggy, or saturated. Basically reverse of everything we've been previously instructed.
 
dlc95 said:
Reduce the size of your drops.

There are times I'll even use one drop.

This whole system is counterintuitive. The pads should never feel wet, soggy, or saturated. Basically reverse of everything we've been previously instructed.
Click to expand...


First words....definitelly if it is truth it is really to forget all I learn up to now :-)
 
dlc95 said:
Reduce the size of your drops.

There are times I'll even use one drop.

This whole system is counterintuitive. The pads should never feel wet, soggy, or saturated. Basically reverse of everything we've been previously instructed.
Click to expand...

When I first started with the Rupes system on a 21 MK2, I had to keep reminding myself: Use little to no pressure!!
 
Me too...what about pad stall...how you solve that on concave and vertical panels? I used to tilt machine little so pad is not full in contact with panel and machine keep rotating otherwise it stall
 
Very speed, angles, pressure, etc. Whatever I have to do to keep pad rotation

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
Kevin Brown has some interesting thinking of the way to polish curved and concave panels. Don't know if it's in this video they mentioned it. But the polisher spinns easier if the center of the pad is the part that touching the paint the most. So try to level the polisher as flat as possible on the curved panels and follow the curves with it leveled on the center of the pad. If that makes any sense LOL. The concave panels is the hardest to keep the pad spinning for me. And I experiment with tilting the polisher and get to the part from different ways so I get a feel and see if I maintain the pad spinning. Their is some trick I think Mike Phillips has when going to rised panel parts. Where I think he gets the pad spinning in the wrong direction for a while. Have not tried this my self but anyone else maybe shaim in and explain it thoroughly.

About the dusting. Could it be that you did not got the pad clean enough from the last time you polished? And do the dusting begins in the 2-3 first passes per sections?

YouTube
 
Yes, the dust begins in first few passes...after adding some more Keramik and after pad soften a little not so much dust bit still some especially when hit "sharp" end of panel (the place where one panel ended and other start - how to explain better :-)) - it seems that end of panel tends to clean the pad with its "sharp" part.
As for pad spinning - agreed it have to be find best possible way to "attack" - until now I was thinking that all the time pad must be in full contact with panel - it can on flat ones but on tight and curved ones if it is in full contact machine just vibrate and pad not spinning
 
ARTB155 said:
Yes, the dust begins in first few passes...after adding some more Keramik and after pad soften a little not so much dust bit still some especially when hit "sharp" end of panel (the place where one panel ended and other start - how to explain better :-)) - it seems that end of panel tends to clean the pad with its "sharp" part.
As for pad spinning - agreed it have to be find best possible way to "attack" - until now I was thinking that all the time pad must be in full contact with panel - it can on flat ones but on tight and curved ones if it is in full contact machine just vibrate and pad not spinning
Click to expand...

I would look over the cleaning of the pad. What is your process to clean the pads?

Yeah it takes some time behind the polisher to get it to spinn the most. I'm no pro and very little polishing experience. But I think it's going better and better to get the feel how it behaves. The Kevin Brown and Larry Kosilla Youtube video I linked. Got me to think of it differently. It's not always you have a 2×2 section that is flat and squered evenly. And not much videos on how to tackle the more curved and uneven panels. There is just to do what works best for you and try different approaches.
 
ARTB155 said:
still some especially when hit "sharp" end of panel (the place where one panel ended and other start - how to explain better :-)) - it seems that end of panel tends to clean the pad with its "sharp" part.
Click to expand...

I understand what you mean. That has happened with me. It may help to tape over the gap.
 
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