Rupes Mark III stalling, no matter what

Reno

Reno

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Dear Mike,
My main correction tool is rupes mark III 15mm. I dont have the washer mode and i dont know if this can correct the stalling problem. But the tool stalling badly especially in curved panels. i know that many will tell , correct your technique and make the tool dance as you say..but believe me, i can correct with the tip of the pad many difficult spots but when it comes on curved panels, the stalling is so bad that you cant add the appropriate pressure to correct the paint. i know that there are many posts on the subject and many will disagree with me, but i am starting to consider to buy a forced rotation tool(or even a rotary), the beast or the supa beast or a makita and use my DA for polishing only. The only pad that make the rupes to not stalling so bad is the MF pad. I use meguires mf pads. Your guidance and thoughts please.. Feed back please
 
Washer mod and better technique will help but it’s not going to totally stop pad stalling. Only forced rotation can guarantee rotation at all times.
 
BSoares said:
Washer mod and better technique will help but it’s not going to totally stop pad stalling.

Only forced rotation can guarantee rotation at all times.
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I agree with Bruce.

This why for the most part, anytime I'm detailing a car I'm using the BEAST or the Supa BEAST.

Everyone has their own style for detailing. Me? I want to plow through a car as fast as I can - thus unless I need a rotary for serious defects, sanding marks or gel-coat, or if I'm working on really soft paint, besides these two things, I go gear-driven orbital.

With a free spinning random orbital polisher - no matter what the brand or the stroke-length you're going to expend 2 types of energy to buff out a car. With a gear-driven orbital - you're only going to expend 1 type of energy.

And it's important to note that not everyone want's to work as fast as they can, some people like to enjoy detailer as an escape and other's are only working on their own cars so pad stalling isn't an issue.

I do think you get less pad stalling with short stroke polishers vs long stroke polisher and I explain why here,


The ghosting footprint and the actual footprint - Long Stroke Free Spinning Orbital Polishers


I know a lot of people don't like to hear this because a quality gear-driven orbital cost more than most polishers. There's also what is described as the "walking-effect".

Life is give and take.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
I agree with Bruce.

This why for the most part, anytime I'm detailing a car I'm using the BEAST or the Supa BEAST.

Everyone has their own style for detailing. Me? I want to plow through a car as fast as I can - thus unless I need a rotary for serious defects, sanding marks or gel-coat, or if I'm working on really soft paint, besides these two things, I go gear-driven orbital.

With a free spinning random orbital polisher - no matter what the brand or the stroke-length you're going to expend 2 types of energy to buff out a car. With a gear-driven orbital - you're only going to expend 1 type of energy.

And it's important to note that not everyone want's to work as fast as they can, some people like to enjoy detailer as an escape and other's are only working on their own cars so pad stalling isn't an issue.

I do think you get less pad stalling with short stroke polishers vs long stroke polisher and I explain why here,


The ghosting footprint and the actual footprint - Long Stroke Free Spinning Orbital Polishers


I know a lot of people don't like to hear this because a quality gear-driven orbital cost more than most polishers. There's also what is described as the "walking-effect".

Life is give and take.


:)
Click to expand...

Believe me mike i dont have strenght issues when it comes to tools and the last thing that matters to me is the walking effect.. my main concern is time , cause i am dealing with “time consuming” detailing jobs and i want to have great resaults as fast as i can. I enjoy polishing a lot, but when i have a job that require me to do an interior detailing and a one step exterior polishing... time is a concern. And many clients want me to finish a full detailing project with one step polishing in a day. So when i am working for 10 consecutive hours some days then yes, time is valuable for me. Thats why i consider a rotary or a forced rotation
 
Reno said:
Believe me mike i dont have strenght issues when it comes to tools and the last thing that matters to me is the walking effect.. my main concern is time , cause i am dealing with “time consuming” detailing jobs and i want to have great resaults as fast as i can. I enjoy polishing a lot, but when i have a job that require me to do an interior detailing and a one step exterior polishing... time is a concern. And many clients want me to finish a full detailing project with one step polishing in a day. So when i am working for 10 consecutive hours some days then yes, time is valuable for me. Thats why i consider a rotary or a forced rotation
Click to expand...

You just solved your own problem, get a forced rotation or rotary polisher and use the long throw for final polishing.
 
Consider a rotary, then you will have the best of both worlds.
 
Anytime you're using a long throw polisher like the Rupes, I'd suggest you watch the tilt of your wrist. It seems like a small thing but play around with how much you're tilting your wrist and the angle the actual pad is touching the paint.
 
WillSports3 said:
Anytime you're using a long throw polisher like the Rupes, I'd suggest you watch the tilt of your wrist. It seems like a small thing but play around with how much you're tilting your wrist and the angle the actual pad is touching the paint.
Click to expand...
thats exactly what i do brother. not only i watch the tilt on my wrist but i constantly change the applied pressure on the head of the machine to maintain pad rotation. but in modern day curved panels , its a pain. yesterday i was fighting with a 2010 benz cls 350. i wished i had even a chinese rotary of 50 bucks in my bag. rupes is a piece of art but some things will never change :props:
 
The washer mod seems to be ideal for this situation. I suggest this just because I know the long throw ones in my opinion finish down the best.
 
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