Rupes pad stall

MountainBound

MountainBound

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Hi AG, been into paint correction for 10+ years, used a pc 7424xp for the longest time and have switched over to a LHR15 iii and Rupes mini lhr75e. I love the smooth action these provide. What I don’t like is the pad stalling I get. Cars tend to have more curves and edges than ever and I find myself fighting to keep the pad spinning. I’m no pro and am always trying to learn but I feel like I have a good grasp on paint correction. I have even taken autogeeks bootcamp when Mike was teaching it. I’ve maintained my polishers properly and only use Rupes pads and polishes. I’ve watched all the Bigfoot 101 videos including the one on pad stall. Rupes seems to be one of the best if not the best polishers on the market but I’m wondering if I would be best to switch over to a different brand like flex or go with a forced rotation. I seem to run both on speed 5 or 6 most of the time to combat the stalling issue even though Rupes recommends speed 3-4 most the time. The tool is effectively useless at those speeds unless I’m doing a flat hood or trunk. I’ve been using both for a couple years now. Any input?
 
What pads are you using? The rupes pads have a larger foot print. I've read many times that the rupes machines are under powered.

I have the first gen. griots G15 its a tank. It will stall but it doesn't take long to get used to it(correct it). Its a 900w motor.
 
There aren't any free spinning orbitals that wont stall, some are worse than others, pad selection is very important. Your probably going to have to keep the speed up to the 4-5 range and lighten up a bit on your pressure- otherwise your going to need to go forced rotation or rotary.

Is your machine new ?
 
Is the back of the backing plate lubricated? The backing plate makes contact with the shroud by design and needs to be lubricated to help minimize pad stall. All it takes is a dab of silicone grease or something similar and you're good to go.

Here is a good article on it: How to lubricate the shroud on long stroke polishers

If you're not fond of the backing plate making contact with the shroud, there is a way to modify your polisher to eliminate this "feature". Just google "kevin brown washer mod" and you should find the needed info easily.

If you do all that and still aren't happy with the performance then it is time for a different polisher. Either a free spinning DA with more power or a forced rotation unit. If I remember correctly the lhr15 mk3 has a 500 watt motor whereas other polishers on the market have around double the power.
 
^^ Good call on the washer mod! Made my machine much better.
 
noorth said:
What pads are you using? The rupes pads have a larger foot print. I've read many times that the rupes machines are under powered.

I have the first gen. griots G15 its a tank. It will stall but it doesn't take long to get used to it(correct it). Its a 900w motor.
Click to expand...

Rupes branded pads, mostly yellow foam/microfiber/wool and blue foam/microfiber/wool along with rupes polishes. We were taught in the bootcamp that Rupes is a system and their products are designed to go together so I've stuck with that. I have tried Oberk pads and polishes but found it made the polisher more unstable.

luckydawg said:
There aren't any free spinning orbitals that wont stall, some are worse than others, pad selection is very important. Your probably going to have to keep the speed up to the 4-5 range and lighten up a bit on your pressure- otherwise your going to need to go forced rotation or rotary.

Is your machine new ?
Click to expand...

I typically run in the speed 5-6 range to combat this issue but still deal with it. My lhr15iii is about 2 years old and the mini is a year old. Probably have 20 or so full paint corrections on them.

SNP209 said:
Is the back of the backing plate lubricated? The backing plate makes contact with the shroud by design and needs to be lubricated to help minimize pad stall. All it takes is a dab of silicone grease or something similar and you're good to go.

Here is a good article on it: How to lubricate the shroud on long stroke polishers

If you're not fond of the backing plate making contact with the shroud, there is a way to modify your polisher to eliminate this "feature". Just google "kevin brown washer mod" and you should find the needed info easily.

If you do all that and still aren't happy with the performance then it is time for a different polisher. Either a free spinning DA with more power or a forced rotation unit. If I remember correctly the lhr15 mk3 has a 500 watt motor whereas other polishers on the market have around double the power.
Click to expand...

Yes it's lubricated, I service the machine as recommended by Rupes. I'll look into the washer mod! Wow didn't realize that they were that underpowered. Thanks
 
I have a mark 2 and no issues with stalling. I’ve learned to adapt myself to make the tool work with curves. I also use other pads and polishes besides the Rupes pads.

Had the washer mod and took it back out. Yes it does help but in the end I found it was not needed.

The Rupes mini on the other hand stalls like crazy even with a washer mod. I sold mine.
 
The Guz said:
I have a mark 2 and no issues with stalling. I’ve learned to adapt myself to make the tool work with curves. I also use other pads and polishes besides the Rupes pads.

Had the washer mod and took it back out. Yes it does help but in the end I found it was not needed.

The Rupes mini on the other hand stalls like crazy even with a washer mod. I sold mine.
Click to expand...

I also don't use the mod. It runs so smooth with the anti-spin system.

The only pads I have h difficult time maintaing rotation with is the yellow wool and B&S Uro-Fiber. Every time it's due to my technique. Often a slight tweak of the wrist will bring back the rotation.

As for the Mini, I never had an issue with it. I'm even better with it now, after using the Adam's Mini at work. That one seems a little less robust than the Rupes. Same with their 15, which is why I like it. The shrouds on our Rupes Polishers at work are all worn down, and run buckwild.
 
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