Rupes UHS system...how to identify "ultra high solids" clear, or which cars use it?

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JCDetails

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Title pretty much says it all. I'm very intrigued by the UHS system as a potential option for a mid-range package. My best seller is my AIO 'daily driver' kind of deal using Mckees 360. I'm thinking of a single stage plus a good sealant a la powerlock as a slight upgrade to that package. With that in mind, the single polishing stage needs to be able to clean up the paint better than what 360 is capable of, and does not need to leave behind its own protection. This is what has me looking at a few options, but the UHS system is really attractive for this role.

With that said, UHS stands for 'ultra high solids' which is the type of paint/clear the system was designed for. Does that mean the newer more scratch-resistant clears that are coming out of europe and asia these days, and how do you identify it? Are there certain manufacturers that use it on their full range or is it a model by model case?


Or is it more aimed at repaint work with the traditionally harder clear they utilize?


Obviously the UHS system will work on all clear coat finishes with what I assume would be varying degrees of success. It would just be nice to be able to say right out of the gate "OK, I know this car uses UHS paint and I need the UHS system for it". Obviously a test spot will still be required and a best practice, but you could definitely cut down the time required to test combos if you can go straight to it.
 
Hey dude, if you're looking to use uhs, you need to get the rupes uhs pads. I would suggest sonax cut and finish for a one step. It's probably the best one step levelling fluid I've ever used.
 
Also note: I asked this here because I know mike has first hand experience with UHS, but if it needs to be moved to the Rupes section that's cool too.
 
yep, i bought the 250ml bottle and 2 6" UHS pads for use on my boss g15 to give it a shot before I go prime-time with it. I really do like the Sonax stuff and have been a Menzerna fanboy for a long time. I do need to try some Sonax stuff.
 
I like sonax because i prefer water based polishes, it's a lot easier to deal with any potential dusting on the car than oil based. Also makes it easier to remove polish residue since my lsp of choice is usually a coating.
 
The UHS system cuts a bit harder, and finishes a tad better than the Quarz/green pad combo.

The concept behind UHS is that it will stay wetter longer than a heavy cut polish, allowing the abrasives (which were also designed to endure an extended polishing cycle) to continue working on the paint. Sometimes the lubricant in a heavy compound will dry up before it can affect a hard surface.

The combos I use in that application (in no particular order):
UHS system
Quarz / Yellow foam
Keramik / Yellow Microfiber
Menzerna PF2500 / Lake Country Tangerine Hydrotech
Meguiar's M205 / Yellow Rupes Microfiber.

I'll follow that with Rupes 808, Optimum Opti-Seal or Car Wax, and Duragloss 101, or 111. Thinking about switching back to DG for maximum longevity.
 
WillSports3 said:
I like sonax because i prefer water based polishes, it's a lot easier to deal with any potential dusting on the car than oil based. Also makes it easier to remove polish residue since my lsp of choice is usually a coating.
Click to expand...

UHS doesn't dust.
 
Ok, so then UHS pretty much bridges the Blue and green steps into a single step? Not quite as much cut as blue/blue, but more cut than green/green, but finishes as good or better than green/green.

With that in mind, could be a great one step for a wide range of paint systems except maybe the really soft stuff.
 
I'm not saying uhs dusts, I was just saying why I prefer water based liquids. I know rupes has some pretty good leveling fluids but just too oily for me personally.
 
UHS needs to be used with its grey pad, any softer pad and its a finishing polish.
 
All good points guys, but the real thing in question here is how to identify the UHS paint systems the stuff was designed for


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
Oh high solid clear coats are usually the harder clears. For example the Mercedes ceramiclears are one of them. It's usually European cars with the super hard clear coats, like most British and German clearcoat systems.
 
JCDetails said:
Ok, so then UHS pretty much bridges the Blue and green steps into a single step? Not quite as much cut as blue/blue, but more cut than green/green, but finishes as good or better than green/green.

With that in mind, could be a great one step for a wide range of paint systems except maybe the really soft stuff.
Click to expand...

Reports that I've read say that the UHS works great on soft paints as well.

It will out cut blue/blue on hard paints, because it can work long enough to abraded it, where the Zephir might dry up on ya.
 
WillSports3 said:
I'm not saying uhs dusts, I was just saying why I prefer water based liquids. I know rupes has some pretty good leveling fluids but just too oily for me personally.
Click to expand...

Right on.

I never knew Rupes polishes to be oil, or solvent based. I actually like them because they clean up so easily.
 
JCDetails said:
All good points guys, but the real thing in question here is how to identify the UHS paint systems the stuff was designed for


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
Click to expand...

I always start off with a test spot and adjust from there. I've had success with it on hard to soft paints.
 
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