Rust-Olem Epoxy Garage Floor Paint
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fenderpicks
SELF BANNED
- Jan 24, 2012
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i have had mine in my garage for a year now.
It is holding up good, no peels or anything...
Just some fisheyes when i first did it... maybe i didnt prep it good, but hey is not like im going to lay on the floor and stare at it hard lol.
But i did use their clear coat over the painted ones.
Also easy clean up with a wet mop
It is holding up good, no peels or anything...
Just some fisheyes when i first did it... maybe i didnt prep it good, but hey is not like im going to lay on the floor and stare at it hard lol.
But i did use their clear coat over the painted ones.
Also easy clean up with a wet mop
Dr_Pain
New member
- Nov 28, 2012
- 2,196
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Researched extensively on the subject and settled with a Sherwin William product called Tile Clad HS (best product for the price). I did one coat thinned 20% and applied a second coat with a mix of vinyl flecks from SW and some I bought at Lowes broadcasted over it. Could not be happier. Very good chemical resistance and excellent abrasion resistance. Regardless of what you use, PREP IS THE KEY!!!!
Out of the selections I researched, the SW Tile Clad HS had the high solid content and was the most economical. Rustoleum say one coat is enough..... I call BS and will only recommend 2 coats.
Out of the selections I researched, the SW Tile Clad HS had the high solid content and was the most economical. Rustoleum say one coat is enough..... I call BS and will only recommend 2 coats.
GTPpilot
New member
- Sep 3, 2010
- 102
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I've been happy with mine. I would just make sure you get a good etch on the floor. I actually used muriatic instead of the citric acid they include with the kit. I also cleared over it. It can be pretty damn slippery if it's wet and you have hard soled shoes on. Be warned, the wife may whine.
The self leveling concrete is not so level in my garage and some of the high spots did not etch all that great and those are the spots were a couple small spots have lifted.
I love it though. Looks great 4 years later and cleans up very easy. I also like that when I ONR a car in it and I can just run around with a couple of beach towels and clean the floor at the same time. Awesome !!
If I had it to do over again I might go with a more commercial rated product.
The self leveling concrete is not so level in my garage and some of the high spots did not etch all that great and those are the spots were a couple small spots have lifted.
I love it though. Looks great 4 years later and cleans up very easy. I also like that when I ONR a car in it and I can just run around with a couple of beach towels and clean the floor at the same time. Awesome !!
If I had it to do over again I might go with a more commercial rated product.
D_Nyholm
New member
- Nov 26, 2007
- 464
- 1
I used this on my garage in my last house. It held up for 9 years but looked very dull and had some wear marks (I used 2 coats). I am now looking into the U Coat it system and may try that on my new house. Though it seems a lot more expensive than the cans from home depot. I am looking at at least $500 to do my 2 car garage with the options I like
A-train
New member
- May 17, 2011
- 1,167
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Ill just throw in my 2cents. When I moved into my house I searched for a DIY epoxy product. I finally decided on a product called EpoxyCoat. I prepped with muriatic acid and followed the directions to the letter. The floor turned out great.
About 4 months down the my nice gray epoxy floor had a terrible yellowish tint to it where it had discolored from the sunlight, keep in mind the door is down the majority of the time. I even applied a UV resistant clear coat once finished but it did not help.
Around 6 months later after being tired of looking at it I decided to go back over it with a generic coating from Lowes. Once again after substantial prep and scuffing I recoated and all was well with my floor again. Fast forward 3 months the yellow discoloration was back. I tried a different UV sealer and it failed a well.
Throught my coating experiences I can say that I never had any hot tire pickup, stains were easily removed, and the coating showed no wear except for the discoloration.
After being sick and tired of the floor, I decided to have it professionally done by local company using 100% solids epoxy. Their coating came with a lifetime warranty. They diamond grinded the existing coatings off. The new coating was applied 4x thicker than DIY kits and they applied 30lbs of flecks for excellent coverage opposed to the small bag that comes in the consumer kits. I have had it for a year now and could not be happier. Had I just gone with them to start with it would had saved me alot hassle.
Clearly you can get good results with a consumer kit as some have stated, and my only problem was discoloration. Good luck either route you take!
My new floor:
View attachment 14657
View attachment 14658
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
About 4 months down the my nice gray epoxy floor had a terrible yellowish tint to it where it had discolored from the sunlight, keep in mind the door is down the majority of the time. I even applied a UV resistant clear coat once finished but it did not help.
Around 6 months later after being tired of looking at it I decided to go back over it with a generic coating from Lowes. Once again after substantial prep and scuffing I recoated and all was well with my floor again. Fast forward 3 months the yellow discoloration was back. I tried a different UV sealer and it failed a well.
Throught my coating experiences I can say that I never had any hot tire pickup, stains were easily removed, and the coating showed no wear except for the discoloration.
After being sick and tired of the floor, I decided to have it professionally done by local company using 100% solids epoxy. Their coating came with a lifetime warranty. They diamond grinded the existing coatings off. The new coating was applied 4x thicker than DIY kits and they applied 30lbs of flecks for excellent coverage opposed to the small bag that comes in the consumer kits. I have had it for a year now and could not be happier. Had I just gone with them to start with it would had saved me alot hassle.
Clearly you can get good results with a consumer kit as some have stated, and my only problem was discoloration. Good luck either route you take!
My new floor:
View attachment 14657
View attachment 14658
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Dr_Pain
New member
- Nov 28, 2012
- 2,196
- 0
A-train's experience (or similar I had read) are what made me rethink my selections at least 100 times over. Having large South facing bay doors I was concerned about the yellowing and after much consideration and reconsideration (and wanting to stay the DIY to stay on the cheap) I selected the Sherwin Williams Tile Clad HS. Although it is not 100% UV resistant it was mixed with a based which was. I assume that overtime I will see some yellowing but was wise in selecting a color in the beige/earth tone. So even if it does yellow a bit it should blend in. I broadcasted 12 lbs of flecks and was very happy with the results.
I was quoted $5/sq for the professional stuff..... but ended up with about $800 of expenses and over 37 hrs of work for a 2500 sq work shop.. I spent 21 hrs alone on concrete prep (sanding and acid washing and etching). I was dealing with virgin concrete (90 days old) so did not have to deal with oil and other contaminant.
Final product is right at 10 mil (compared to the professional stuff which would have been doubled). It is solvent based and only 70% solid by volume, compared to the 100 solids A-Train described. I opted not to do the clear on top because it did not offer additional protection (since it was basically just a untinted Tile Clad HS. I wanted to keep the flecks exposed so to have a little texture, which I would have had to spend more to get a product like Gator Grip to give some adherence to the top coat.
I was quoted $5/sq for the professional stuff..... but ended up with about $800 of expenses and over 37 hrs of work for a 2500 sq work shop.. I spent 21 hrs alone on concrete prep (sanding and acid washing and etching). I was dealing with virgin concrete (90 days old) so did not have to deal with oil and other contaminant.
Final product is right at 10 mil (compared to the professional stuff which would have been doubled). It is solvent based and only 70% solid by volume, compared to the 100 solids A-Train described. I opted not to do the clear on top because it did not offer additional protection (since it was basically just a untinted Tile Clad HS. I wanted to keep the flecks exposed so to have a little texture, which I would have had to spend more to get a product like Gator Grip to give some adherence to the top coat.
Mike Moore
Well-known member
- Dec 16, 2009
- 1,027
- 61
