Rust spots in paint, need help can't remove

16again

16again

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First post here.
2001 Corvette Quick Silver metallic color. Sat outside for a year very close to train tracks. Thousands of rust specs on the paint.
Washed it, clay barred it and still have many of them in the paint. Took the PC 7424 and some Menzerna final polish with an orange pad. That didn't really do well and I moved to a yellow pad, which did better but not 100%.

In the areas I have buffed (just 3 test areas) they are about 80% removed. Just cannot get the last little bit. I know it's going to take some work and that's fine.

Can someone help with the proper steps and or product to get the stubborn rust (metal dust) out of the finish?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Bob
 
Just to elaborate, it would seem that the rail dust has penetrated the finish, and that claying only shears off what is above the surface, leaving the embedded iron below the surface.

What you need to do is chemically remove/dissolve the iron. We would typically call this a "decon" or chemical decontamination using either the Valugard ABC system or the FinishKare 1-2-3 system (Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution). These are A/1 Alkaline cleaner, B/2 Acid, C/3 neutral wash. The newer kid on the block is the Iron-X which works a little differently but does the same thing, however it is a single (neutral) step.
 
Guess I'll try your multiple recommendation of the Iron - X
Thanks
 
16again said:
Guess I'll try your multiple recommendation of the Iron - X
Thanks
Click to expand...

Setec Astronomy said:
Just to elaborate, it would seem that the rail dust has penetrated the finish, and that claying only shears off what is above the surface, leaving the embedded iron below the surface.

What you need to do is chemically remove/dissolve the iron. We would typically call this a "decon" or chemical decontamination using either the Valugard ABC system or the FinishKare 1-2-3 system (Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution). These are A/1 Alkaline cleaner, B/2 Acid, C/3 neutral wash. The newer kid on the block is the Iron-X which works a little differently but does the same thing, however it is a single (neutral) step.
Click to expand...

I agree. The finish made system works amazingly. I've been using it for two years now.
 
there are many iron x posts on here. Easiest way to see the effect is on a light coloured car.

Do a search and prepare to be amazed.
 
Just placed my order for a bottle of the Iron-X.
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll let you know how it works next week when I get to use it. :xyxthumbs:
 
Another vote for Iron-X

I bought some any tried it on a well cared for white Toyota.

It looked like the car was bleeding purple it removed so much iron and rail dust particles.

And this car had been clayed many times, but the iron remained just below the surface.
 
The email from Autogeek says it shipped and will arrive Tuesday. :xyxthumbs:
 
Iron-X indeed ... cannot wait to hear the results.
 
Valuguard ABC system is trusted by many many in the industry and not just detailers. It also works wonders but I can't post this since AG doesn't sell the stuff that has reviews and discussion of it.

But if that's to much for you the IronX spray or Paste will do you good. I have a rust spot on my car too that I'll be cleaning off this week and all I have ATM is just Iron X and Iron X paste and it really works.
 
OK guy's the product arrived Tuesday as expected. Today I did a small test on my deck lid. It worked fairly well.

Spray on, let sit for 2-3 minutes, rub with soft cloth, hose off. I followed up with a clay bar of the area but maybe 50% of what was there was removed. I believe it raises the problem to the surface so the clay bar can remove it. Some must be deeper into the finish than others.

Can I reapply again and again? Can I leave it on longer? Do I have to dry in between applications?
Tips, tricks would be greatly appreciated.

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You can reapply it and let it work a little longer. Just don't let it dry and you will be fine.
 
rider9195 said:
You can reapply it and let it work a little longer. Just don't let it dry and you will be fine.
Click to expand...
Excellent, thanks. What about the rubber trim around the windows, safe?
 
Safe. Its safe for every part of your car unless you're one of the few with Carbon Ceramic rotors, then stay clear of that area.

Some members have sprayed Iron X on their cars for four mins or more but as rider9195 told you, don't let it dry on the car.

And just my tip for best effect rinse the car, dry the car, than spray the car, than rub it in with something super soft, than wash the car, than clay the car.
 
Rei86 said:
Safe. Its safe for every part of your car unless you're one of the few with Carbon Ceramic rotors, then stay clear of that area.

Some members have sprayed Iron X on their cars for four mins or more but as rider9195 told you, don't let it dry on the car.

And just my tip for best effect rinse the car, dry the car, than spray the car, than rub it in with something super soft, than wash the car, than clay the car.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips. :xyxthumbs:
 
It's amazing that Iron-X works so well but what strikes me odd is how common the iron or metal particles are. I presume that much of what we're seeing these days come up from the road via brake rotors and other iron and steel debris from the shear numbers of vehicles today.

There is no doubt that they exist and Iron-X appears to be the solution....
 
After a bird took a crap on my hood I cleaned it off. After I got that off I noticed a nice orange spot where the crap had been. I guess the bird swallowed something metallic to digest its food but it left a nice rusted out spot on my car.

SO I go over it with more ONR than I proceed to to spray Iron X in that area...Low and behold that spot starts to bleed like a pinch on the human skin after getting clipped. But the part that really worried me was all the other areas around that sprayed area that started to bleed also. All in all I had a good 20+ spots in that small 5x5 section bleeding.
 
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