RV filon oxidation removal Pics

Jomax

Jomax

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Did this back in April before the triple digit heat came. Took awhile for me to post a write up. I honestly don't know where the time went! After reading Joe's show N shine thread about long write ups I was a bit hesitant ;). But figured there are very few RV threads. First write up, hope it goes well.


Being new to detailing a bought a GG6, pads, and the list goes on and on. I knew a rotary would have been a ton better, but already spending all the money on the machine and products, I said what better place to learn then hard gel coat. This was the first time I ever used a DA, I'll let the pics speak for them selfs.

Before, not the best pic, but you can see the heavy oxidation, i couldn't see my face staring straight at it.

image3.jpg


I started by removing all lights, protectors, vents, etc of the side of the trailer. Once that was done I got the pressure washer put Meg's APC+ 2:1 in the chemical tank on the pressure washer. I would soak one side of the trailer in APC, then slowly pressure washed the gel coat to remove any contamination along with as much oxidation as I could, it took off quite a bit.(Thanks Vegas Transplant for the idea).

First test spot, I was amazed by the results, this is all with a DA and Meguiars one step marine compound #67.

image2.jpg


I did 6 section passes on speed 5.5, threw out the whole trailer using Meg's #67. Being it was already 97degrees outside, I would use three foam pads, after two sections I would switch. This kept the pads alive, any more passes and they would collapse in the center from overheating.

After compounding the whole trailer with Meg's #67 I was happy with the results. I then APCed the whole trailer followed by a wash to make sure all polishing oil was removed. For protecting I used Fk1000p, after ALOT of research I figured this would work best for me being it had a high melt point, which would help with the triple digit weather we have all summer.

Finished results
image.jpg


image1.jpg


Last thoughts

After putting a ton of time into it, I would never use a DA on gelcoat AGAIN. I'm buying a dewalt 849x.. The DA will have waxing duty..


Any helpful info is appreciated, question and comments aswell.

Happy Detailing!!


If there are any spelling errors, I am sorry, I had time to kill and I'm on my phone and don't have a pc nearby.







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Awesome work!

My experience tells me this RV looks better now than the day it was bought. That's a lot of real-estate to buff out...


Jomax said:
After putting a ton of time into it, I would never use a DA on gelcoat AGAIN. I'm buying a dewalt 849x.. The DA will have waxing duty..
Click to expand...

Actually, safe the DA for swirl removal and machine waxing.

Most of the RV's, Motorhomes and Travel Trailers I've seen in my life that have been detailed are completely swirled out because the detailer did all the machine polishing steps using only a rotary buffer.

To "ensure" a swirl free finish you need to change the action of the tool...

That means get away from the direct drive rotating action of a rotary buffer and use a tool that rotates AND oscillates at the same time for your last fine cut polishing step and you won't have to worry if you left swirls or not.

It's not about having the right tool, it's about having the right tools.

Rotary buffer is a great tool, I fed myself for years with one, but it's better when it's coupled with a DA Polisher for the finishing work.


And don't ever worry about creating a long write-up, there's no such thing as too long of copy only boring copy. If your copy is good and your pictures help tell the story or support the copy then your readers will read each and every word.

:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Awesome work!

My experience tells me this RV looks better now than the day it was bought. That's a lot of real-estate to buff out...




Actually, safe the DA for swirl removal and machine waxing.

Most of the RV's, Motorhomes and Travel Trailers I've seen in my life that have been detailed are completely swirled out because the detailer did all the machine polishing steps using only a rotary buffer.

To "ensure" a swirl free finish you need to change the action of the tool...

That means get away from the direct drive rotating action of a rotary buffer and use a tool that rotates AND oscillates at the same time for your last fine cut polishing step and you won't have to worry if you left swirls or not.

It's not about having the right tool, it's about having the right tools.

Rotary buffer is a great tool, I fed myself for years with one, but it's better when it's coupled with a DA Polisher for the finishing work.


And don't ever worry about creating a long write-up, there's no such thing as too long of copy only boring copy. If your copy is good and your pictures help tell the story or support the copy then your readers will read each and every word.

:)
Click to expand...


Thanks Mike, it's an honor for you to reply to my write up. So with gelcoat, a DA is always needed to achieve a swirl free finish? Do you think for future trailers, if I use say #67 with a rotary. Then use Meg's flagship wax(says it removes minor swirls and oxidation) with a DA will be strong enough to remove swirls created by the rotary? I guess what I'm trying to figure out is how to save time. And if possible, use two steps. Thanks!



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Jomax said:
So with gelcoat, a DA is always needed to achieve a swirl free finish?
Click to expand...

Just depends on your expectations. White gel-coat, especially with a pattern embedded into it doesn't show swirls as well as a black clear coat but that doesn't mean they're not there.

RV's and Boats, normally colored white tend to be big, at least relative to a passenger car and to do an extra step to "ensure" they are swirl free will take a lot of time, labor and materials.

If you own the project it might be worth it to you and if it's for a customer then it comes down to what they'll pay for.

For most people, after using a rotary buffer with a compound or polish they'll wax it and call it done. Or if a one-step cleaner/wax is used after that step it's considered done.

So it really comes down to you and or your customer and everyone's expectations.

I've buffed out just about everything under the sun and I prefer working on SIV's or Special Interest Vehicles and especially classics, hotrods and customs. No plastic trim and they look cool. They are also usually well-taken care of into the future. These types of vehicles should have a swirl-free, show car finish. Boats and RV's? Well they're not typically "show cars" so it's not as important to the owners nor me.

Make sense?


Jomax said:
Do you think for future trailers, if I use say #67 with a rotary. Then use Meg's flagship wax(says it removes minor swirls and oxidation) with a DA will be strong enough to remove swirls created by the rotary? I guess what I'm trying to figure out is how to save time. And if possible, use two steps. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Flagship has some cleaning ability, I'm not sure it has enough to physically abrade gel-coat enough to level the surface and leave it flat. You would probably have a better chance using the M50 Cleaner/Wax.

Give it a try on a Test Spot next time you do a project like this and if it looks good go for it!

In a perfect situation, the condition wouldn't be so bad and you could just use M50 for everything with a Flex 3401 and not have to worry about swirls nor doing two steps.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just depends on your expectations. White gel-coat, especially with a pattern embedded into it doesn't show swirls as well as a black clear coat but that doesn't mean they're not there.

RV's and Boats, normally colored white tend to be big, at least relative to a passenger car and to do an extra step to "ensure" they are swirl free will take a lot of time, labor and materials.

If you own the project it might be worth it to you and if it's for a customer then it comes down to what they'll pay for.

For most people, after using a rotary buffer with a compound or polish they'll wax it and call it done. Or if a one-step cleaner/wax is used after that step it's considered done.

So it really comes down to you and or your customer and everyone's expectations.

I've buffed out just about everything under the sun and I prefer working on SIV's or Special Interest Vehicles and especially classics, hotrods and customs. No plastic trim and they look cool. They are also usually well-taken care of into the future. These types of vehicles should have a swirl-free, show car finish. Boats and RV's? Well they're not typically "show cars" so it's not as important to the owners nor me.

Make sense?




Flagship has some cleaning ability, I'm not sure it has enough to physically abrade gel-coat enough to level the surface and leave it flat. You would probably have a better chance using the M50 Cleaner/Wax.

Give it a try on a Test Spot next time you do a project like this and if it looks good go for it!

In a perfect situation, the condition wouldn't be so bad and you could just use M50 for everything with a Flex 3401 and not have to worry about swirls nor doing two steps.


:)
Click to expand...

Makes sense, my parents just picked up a 37ft 5th wheel, pretty oxidized. I'll use all your info and use this trailer as a test subject. I'll probably use, a compound with the dewalt, followed by Pretty much a one step with the DA. And if I want more protection a sealant on top. After that I think if I use a one step at least once a year, it should stay shiny. Reason I was thinking of a rotary is, now all my friends want their trailer done, 3 big 5th wheels.. But most likely I'll do a one step. I doubt they will want to pay for a 2-3 step on an rv. Thanks




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Top Notch Detail Jomax :dblthumb2:

Your friends and family are privileged to have someone as yourself, that is dedicated and thorough, to work on their RV's.

I'm glad that I could help out in some small way. Your pm's encouraged me to market my rv details more aggressively. It's a two way street.

I know from experience what it took for you to perform all of the various steps in the 97 degree heat - and as Mike said, "that's a lot of real estate to buff out"...multiple times.
A detail of this caliber should put you on the short list of preferred RV detailers in your vicinity - word of mouth spreads quickly in niche markets.

Last note: when it comes to tips and guidance, there is no place better for the detailer to sharpen his skills than the AGO forums. Most just scan the words and glance through the pictures.
But when detailers like Ritchy, kc's, tuscarora dave, B&B, Cosmos and many others
are giving out tips and guidance, believe me, I bookmark these threads and videos.

Oldmodman, Silverfox, FUNX725, and BobbyG. are constantly offering tidbits of wisdom and guidance that I have incorporated in my routine.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Vegas, that means a lot to me.:)


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3M marine cleaner/wax was a favorite when I was out west for gelcoat and trailers like yours.
I also used an AutoMagic product.

3M is a pain, but efficient if you cut with APC/powerwasher. I was not concerned with durability...just end results produced quickly. Quick payday and a satisfied customer.

I don't know if you remember the pm or not, but I could only get $120 for the wash, + $250 for the one-step...and I had only seen a da once, so all was done with the 849.
I am anxiously awaiting trying out the Megs 67 that you used. I purchased it for the Minnie-Winnie we discussed in this spring.

On painted rv's, any AIO will work.
If I would have landed the Prevost, I was going to use Optimum Polish II/Poly-seal combo on pad.

Edit: on another note, I could only get a buck and a half, to $200 for a complete interior on the Endeavor type coaches. RV detailers are as prevalent in Vegas as slot machines are.
 
Did you ever try the 3M Marine restorer and wax? looking on AG it seems DG501/601 cuts good, but leaves the most protection out of any AIO. I wonder if it cuts as good as 3M.


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*Used it for two years solid. Bodyshop hard hipped me to it. Wasn't sold on the product, but once I master product/pad/tecnique its hard for me to change up.

*Probably cuts much better from what I've read on the forums. Can't go wrong from the price point of DG.

I think it was Hoytman using this product last year that caught my attention. Too tired right now to research the threads.
 
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