Sanding for headlights

T

timsatx

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Keep in mind that I am not a business, what I am asking is for me to just do my own vehicle. There is always a chance to do someone else's, like my daughters car, but that's about it.

I am making preparations to do my headlights. Generally I would like to let my DA do all the work, but I don't see how I can justify the cost. Looking up the cost for the 3" backing place, interface pad and sandpaper I came up with about $72. Then you still have to toss in the cost for the other material and it just gets really expensive for pretty much a one-off job.

So my question is, what would you recommend for doing the sanding? I am thinking I will have to do it by hand. If so, recommendations as to technique, maybe sanding pads and grits, etc.
 
Sure you can do it by hand. How bad are the lights? Do you have a picture?
 
Now that we carry Mirka Abralon in 3" discs starting at #500 grit and going to #4000 grit this is what I show in my classes.

We have 3" and 6" hand backing pads to attach the 3" discs to so I guy can sand by hand or machine with both the 3" and the 6" discs.


If you want to do it for less money then get some wet/dry sandpaper, sand the headlights till all the yellowing and cloudiness is gone and then buff with a compound till clear.

If there is an OEM coating that is flaking off you must sand till all of the coating is removed then buff till the plastic is clear.

I show the Optimum Headlight Coating system for sealing the plastic but there's a million ways to skin this cat.


:)
 
If you're not looking to spend too much I can send you some of the 3" sanding disc I have. I also believe I have a used 3" backing plate that you can have as well. What DA are you using?

3M 3" 500 grit
3M 3" 800 grit
Meguiar's 3" 1000 grit
Meguiar's 3" 3000 grit

PM me and I can send some your way.
 
Lets see a pic. You may not even need to sand them. DP headlight polish may just take care of them without all the extra work/$
 
apthai said:
If you're not looking to spend too much I can send you some of the 3" sanding disc I have. I also believe I have a used 3" backing plate that you can have as well. What DA are you using?

3M 3" 500 grit
3M 3" 800 grit
Meguiar's 3" 1000 grit
Meguiar's 3" 3000 grit

PM me and I can send some your way.
Click to expand...

Wow, what a great offer! Last headlights I did were 800/1000/3000 and then I finished with the Trizact 5000, and went right to polish. If the OP is going to work by hand with single sheets ( Meguiars Unigrit Sand Paper ) I'd probably suggest 1000/2000/3000, but that depends how bad they are, as dcjredline said, sometimes you can get the yellow out with just polishing.
 
Ok, got it downloaded after resizing. Maybe that was the trick.

So, there is not a lot of yellowing but a lot of hazing. Never mind the paint, that will be next on the hit list.

tn_Left_Before.jpg
watermark.php


watermark.php
 
Like the other poster stated, DP headlight polish would knock that out in about two minutes (prepping it will take you longer).
 
That's doesn't warrant any sanding,use a mild polish may have to do them twice a year.
 
Cool, I like that idea. Research shows people mostly using a drill with a wool pad. What would you suggest as far as a foam pad for the DA?
 
apthai said:
I've personally tried and would recommend for you the LC Thin Foam Wool Pad with an interface pad and DP AIO Headlight Restoring Polish (On sale right now!). I have not tried this on a drill. I used it with a 3" polisher (PC 7424XP with 3" BP).

Detailer’s All In One Headlight Restoring Polish, headlight restoration
3 1/4 Inch Thin Foamed Wool Pad (2-Pack)
Meguiars Unigrit 3 Inch Foam Interface Pad, foam backup pad, sanding disc interface
Click to expand...


Awesome. I'll work on that.
 
I use my PC with mirka 3 inch disks and always had great results. I use a coating (not saying the name because I know the protocols here) bit the optimum one works just fine. Once I sand I use a 3 inch orange CCS pad or a wool pad with 105 (because I don't use it on my paint anymore) then follow with 205 and a black ccs and then I coat it.

Before

c6ed9649541477c89e26991cb45cf555.jpg


After

b7a0de9fdb78ee8f4349d190378c3a3f.jpg


This one I went with 600, 1000, 2000, 3000. Most likely overkill but I hate seeing pigtails when I'm done.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
The DP kit may polish the some of the oxidation off. You should however wipe down with IPA to check and see what the true end result is without any residue left behind. If you decide to sand, you may be able to get away with 800 or 600 wet/dry sheets by hand and work your way up from there. I did a Nissan Titan truck and the coating was a beast. Took 220 on the DA and twice the time it usually takes me just to get a good starting point. You'll just have to see how your lens coating is because they vary even from model to model. If you're worried about cost, you may have to go to a non-AG site. Hope that helps.
 
timsatx said:
Ok, got it downloaded after resizing. Maybe that was the trick.

So, there is not a lot of yellowing but a lot of hazing. Never mind the paint, that will be next on the hit list.

tn_Left_Before.jpg
watermark.php


watermark.php
Click to expand...


^^ those are about just like the ones I did today on a 10yr old Oddessy.

While I agree polish alone would likely work, I didn't want to spend too much time so I hit them with 1500 just briefly to knock off the really rough stuff. Then moved right to a 3000 grit thin sponge pad and they were very smooth just 2x as cloudy as above. That's okay as that stuff polishes out in a snap.

I put a 3" orange pad on and used some DP polish. Then hit it with a white pad for one last pass then sealed them up. Good as new.

I'll try and post some pics. My friend who owns the car did the before and during pics, which are still on his phone but when I was done I took a few. Back with results so you can see how easy it is to get great results.
 
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