Sanding Wood with a Porter Cable DA Polisher

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Sanding Wood with a Porter Cable DA Polisher



Before
It's on end in this picture but I think it's standing about 7' tall.

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A few years ago I was given a very large desk that I really like except it has some bad stains in the wood.

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So to try to salvage the finish I sanded it down using my Porter Cable DA Polisher as it was originally intended to be used and that's as a wood sander.

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I taped-off and sanded the desk using #220 grit discs using my Porter Cable DA Polisher. This took all the work out of it as compared to sanding by hand. There were some pretty bad stains in one area that I couldn't sand all the way out.

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2-Coats of MINWAX Red Mahogany 225

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:)
 
Thats some serious work. Cars are way easier, lol. I wouldn't have thought 220 grit would be enough for those stains. Very nice work. Has anyone ever said you have real talent?
 
I wouldn't have thought 220 grit would be enough for those stains.

He was probably practicing the "least aggressive" approach:xyxthumbs: since the top is probably veneered. Just like clear coat, you can sand thru the face veneer, and just like clear coat you seldom know how thick the veneer is. Some mills are peeling thinner than 1mm veneers from logs these days.
 
I used to have one of those older desks in the office, let me tell you Mike that desk had some serious weight for a desk.
 
So when are you going to polish the wood with some M205?
 
Mike, is there anything you can't do? :dblthumb2: Now for the polish.:buffing:
 
Mike,
Your woodwork looks great and shows folks what this machine was designed for in the first place.

I also used mine for its original purpose about 12 years back. It worked wonderfully with the supplied sanding pad that came with the old PC 7336.
In short, foundation shifted and doors would not close properly. The PC and that single pad took care of all solid doors. I was amazed how little effort it took, how much dust it made, and how well the doors closed afterwards.
 
It almost looks like someone is prepping a little detailing training studio in his garage...
 
He was probably practicing the "least aggressive" approach:xyxthumbs: since the top is probably veneered. Just like clear coat, you can sand thru the face veneer, and just like clear coat you seldom know how thick the veneer is.


Exactly! The veneer on this desk was thin or I would have sanded further. I stopped when I thought I could go no further.

Some mills are peeling thinner than 1mm veneers from logs these days.

Wow! That's thin...

I worked for Simpson's Plywood Mill a long time ago, actually pulled on the Green Chain for anyone that might know what that is. The thinnest we peeled was 1/10" for plywood.



I used to have one of those older desks in the office, let me tell you Mike that desk had some serious weight for a desk.

Dang right... that desk was H-E-A-V-Y


I hated moving it but loved all the room... sad to say, gave it away when I moved from California to Florida, now someone else is enjoying it...



It almost looks like someone is prepping a little detailing training studio in his garage...


That was my Apply Valley House with a three car garage and I never taught any classes there but I did buff out a lot of cool cars...


I was told that the desk in these pictures was used at one time by Malcolm Meguiar. Meguiar's re-modeled most of the offices while I was there and they were going to dispose of this desk so with permission I brought it home and re-finished it for my home office.


:)
 
Hey Mike,

I have some questions about this process. I have a Meg's G110 v2 and want to know if this would work for wood sanding since it's similar to the porter cable. Also I noticed you pointed out the dust extraction piece, but I didn't see it in the picture with the DA on the desk. Is that piece needed? And would it fit my Meg's DA? Also what kind of backing plate is needed for it? Is it a special sanding one or just a normal detailing one?

Sorry for so many questions but just wanna get this right.
 
Hey Mike,

I have some questions about this process. I have a Meg's G110 v2 and want to know if this would work for wood sanding since it's similar to the porter cable.

Yes. Same "type" of tool. Basically the Meguiar's version of the Porter Cable just like the Griot's DA Polisher is their version of the Porter Cable.

The Porter Cable is the tool that started ALL OF US down the road of using dual action polishers to beautify cars.


Also I noticed you pointed out the dust extraction piece, but I didn't see it in the picture with the DA on the desk. Is that piece needed?

And would it fit my Meg's DA?

I've never owned a Porter Cable outfitted for wood sanding, only units sold for paint polishing.

You don't need the sawdust extraction port but do wear a dust mask.



Also what kind of backing plate is needed for it? Is it a special sanding one or just a normal detailing one?

I'm pretty sure I'm using the standard Meguiar's DA Backing plate.

Take it with you when you go to Lowe's or Home Depot or fill-in-the-blank to buy your sanding discs and make sure the loop material on the back of the disc attach to your backing plate.

There's also the discs that are adhesive, I'd go for the Velcro system.



Sorry for so many questions but just wanna get this right.


That's what we're here for... to help people get it right... Max wouldn't have it any other way... he's totally focused on offering the best in customer service whether it's on our phones, in an e-mail or on this forum.


Now how about some before and after pictures of your project?


:buffing:
 
You can get the sanding disk at HD Supplies.
It fits the five inch BP perfect.
I've used my PC to sand new steps for stairs and worked really good.
It goes to show you how durable the PC is.
I used it all day and not once did it get hot on me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
 
It looks like I will be braking out my GG6 when I do my desk this spring. My black and decker mouse works, but it sure is slow.
 
Cool thank you so much I Mike and hateswirls! One final question, should I blow out any vents or anything after sanding with it? I'm worried that it could blow out some abrasive dust when I'm using it as a polisher again.
 
Cool thank you so much I Mike and hateswirls! One final question, should I blow out any vents or anything after sanding with it? I'm worried that it could blow out some abrasive dust when I'm using it as a polisher again.

Yep, that's possible, and exactly why I'd never use one for dual duty. Some wood (depends on growing conditions) can have high silica content which makes matters worse. You'll also have some pieces of the sanding grit scattered about the sander too.

When you're done, clean it and re-clean it. Disassemble as much as you can and clean the daylights out of it. Compressed air, vacuum, swabs. If you can, use a completely different backing plate. Make the risk as low as possible.
 
basic woodworker here, If you want to add gloss to the desk, buy rotten stone and a felt pad. It creates that glass look that everybody wants in wood. If you need a picture to see what I am talking about,I will post
 
Yes make sure you blow it out, wipe it well to make sure no "saw dust" is present.
Remove the BP too.
Really not a big deal if you take the time to clean it well


Cool thank you so much I Mike and hateswirls! One final question, should I blow out any vents or anything after sanding with it? I'm worried that it could blow out some abrasive dust when I'm using it as a polisher again.
 
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