sap on my fresh detail

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hmardown

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just did my garaged weekend car about four weeks ago. it's topped with mckee's hi-def sealant. went to an all day party and had to park under a pine tree. you know the rest of the story sap, sap & more sap. what would be the easiest non invasive way of removing the sap ? I mean it's pretty fine and some of it did wash off. is clay effective on sap ? or should I buff it out with something ? I was hoping to not have to do two or three steps if possible.
thanks, Carlo
 
Microfiber and bit of alcohol (IPA). Get the 51 % bottle from Walmart.

Tom
 
see this is why you have to ask. I have some car pro eraser, will that work ? I'm not sure of the percentage. also what do you think about after the wipe down. maybe a detail spray & then reply a sealant ? or just IPA and then maybe some wax ?

another thing, before I use an IPA should I try and clean the hood & roof off first ? there's bound to be some dust mixed in with the sap. I don't think that IPA has any lubricants in it.
 
Just spot remove sap with the ISP.

ISP will remove whatever you have on the paint. After spot cleaning---go ahead and reapply your high def sealant.

tom
 
hmardown said:
what do you think about after the
wipe down. maybe a detail spray
& then reply a sealant ? or just IPA
and then maybe some wax ?
Click to expand...
Sap, in and of itself, is pretty invasive.

Let’s say that even if it hasn’t invaded
the paint system’s top-coat, you can
bet your bottom dollar that the LSP in
the affected areas is already toast before
any sap removal chemicals have been used.

As such:
After its removal...[“alcohol swabbing” is one
way to remove sap; some will use turpentine
(ie: “like removes like”); I prefer products like
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner]...it’s
always a “Best Practice” to re-seal all of the
affected areas.


Bob
 
Got you too Bob thanks


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So it seems like i may have been wrong about the sap. At as far as IPA removing what I thought was sap. I tried claying with ultra fine clay and achieved success. Of course this means more work. But I want to do it right. I could have sworn it was sap. I only put on 100 miles after detailing and park in a garage. I didn’t need The baggie test to make it feel like sandpaper.
475f21297105a392939edfa74dcdd52e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
hmardown said:
So it seems like i may have been wrong about the sap. At as far as IPA removing what I thought was sap. I tried claying with ultra fine clay and achieved success. Of course this means more work. But I want to do it right. I could have sworn it was sap. I only put on 100 miles after detailing and park in a garage. I didn’t need The baggie test to make it feel like sandpaper.
475f21297105a392939edfa74dcdd52e.jpg
Click to expand...
IMO:
The main thing is that you’re able to
remove the contaminate(s) using one
of the least aggressive methods. :props:


Bob
 
THAT was removed by clay bar after 100 miles? Did you just clay before the miles?

That's what I like to see on my clay...means it's removing it.
 
Paul A. said:
THAT was removed by clay bar after 100 miles? Did you just clay before the miles?

That's what I like to see on my clay...means it's removing it.
Click to expand...

Yes. Not before the 100 miles. Maybe a month ago I detailed it and covered it up in the garage. I still think it’s sap from a pine tree but who knows. I doubt it’s pollen because it was not green. Either way it came off easy.


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