ScratchX 2.0 conflicting advice

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Smoothy

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I've read multiple posts with different advice on the best way to rub out light scratches using Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0. The mfg video says to rub in the direction of the scratch. Some say to rub in a circular motion. Others say to rub against the grain of the scratch. Good grief!

Some of this advice might apply to the original ScratchX "1.0" which I understand had a dissolving abrasive. The current 2.0 version is reformulated and doesn't dissolve but has micro-abrasives which retain their form (no doubt someone else could explain the difference better than I have).

Please let me know what the current best practice is for ScratchX 2.0? Rub with, against, or circular?

I'll also add that I'm planning to follow the ScratchX rub with Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax to complete the treatment.
 
Last edited:
This is how I've removed light scratches using ScratchX 2.0:

-Reduced the size of the work area (EX: 6"X6")

-Used a yellow foam applicator

-Applied it in both circular and straight-line motions

-Worked this product 'into the paint'...
"with some passion behind the pad"<<<(M.P.)...
until it looked like it was almost gone.

-Wiped off the residue to inspect results

-Re-applied/repeated the above process...if necessary...
and/or until I was satisified with the results


More Mike Phillips': Words of Wisdom
"A little technique goes a long way!"
"ScratchX works, if you work it"!

:)

Bob
 
Don't have any personal experience with Scratch Out but all of the headlights I have done, I have used either a DA or rotary polisher which is always circular. All of the kits that come complete come with a pad to attach to a drill. Also circular. Now, we are talking about cloudy headlights that need to be cleared up and not a single scratch. That could make a difference. Never dealt with that one. Good luck. I'm sure someone on the forum will have the answer.
 
FUNX725 said:
This is how I've removed light scratches using ScratchX 2.0:

-Reduced the size of the work area (EX: 6"X6")

-Used a yellow foam applicator

-Applied it in both circular and straight-line motions

-Worked this product 'into the paint'...
"with some passion behind the pad"<<<(M.P.)...
until it looked like it was almost gone.

-Wiped off the residue to inspect results

-Re-applied/repeated the above process...if necessary...
and/or until I was satisified with the results


More Mike Phillips': Words of Wisdom
"A little technique goes a long way!"
"ScratchX works, if you work it"!

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

+1 :)
 
Thanks for replies! Now that I think about it, rubbing in a circular motion is another way of saying to rub against the grain of the scratch.

I was going to buy some MF pads, but I'll go with your advice to use foam pads instead.
 
Smoothy said:
Thanks for replies! Now that I think about it, rubbing in a circular motion is another way of saying to rub against the grain of the scratch.

I was going to buy some MF pads, but I'll go with your advice to use foam pads instead.
Click to expand...

I have used foam and MF. If it is bad enough, I even use surbuf. Surbuf on a rotary with Meg's 105 will cut most anything. Finish up with 205 on foam and seal. Done.
 
Smoothy said:
I've read multiple posts with different advice on the best way to rub out light scratches using Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0. The mfg video says to rub in the direction of the scratch. Some say to rub in a circular motion. Others say to rub against the grain of the scratch. Good grief!

Some of this advice might apply to the original ScratchX "1.0" which I understand had a dissolving abrasive. The current 2.0 version is reformulated and doesn't dissolve but has micro-abrasives which retain their form (no doubt someone else could explain the difference better than I have).

Please let me know what the current best practice is for ScratchX 2.0? Rub with, against, or circular?

I'll also add that I'm planning to follow the ScratchX rub with Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax to complete the treatment.
Click to expand...


Hi Phil,

Received your e-mail with a link to this thread, just returning to work today after my wedding and honeymoon...


Couple questions...

Are you trying to remove a single deeper scratch?

Or

Are you trying to remove swirls and scratches in general all over the finish?



:)
 
Mike, first off, congrats on your news!

I have a single scratch on my side panel, not too deep. I also have a cluster of small scratches/scuffs under my drivers door handle.

Thanks in advance for weighing in!
 
Just adding to my last post ...

There is a lot of good advice/videos on the forum describing how to apply ScratchX. What I am not sure about is if the techniques described have changed with Gen 2 of ScratchX and the reformulation from a dissolving abrasive to non-dissolving micro-abrasives.
 
Smoothy said:
Just adding to my last post ...

There is a lot of good advice/videos on the forum describing how to apply ScratchX. What I am not sure about is if the techniques described have changed with Gen 2 of ScratchX and the reformulation from a dissolving abrasive to non-dissolving micro-abrasives.
Click to expand...

Have you tried it yet? It is possible you are over thinking it. I am guilty of that myself sometimes. :) Give it a shot, it might be easier than you think. I think it is a great, easy to use product.
 
spiralout462 said:
... It is possible you are over thinking it. I am guilty of that myself sometimes. :) ...
Click to expand...
The priorities in my life are 1) my family, 2) my country, and 3) my car. We are not over thinking, we are just men who are taking care of the things that matter most.
 
Smoothy said:
The priorities in my life are 1) my family, 2) my country, and 3) my car. We are not over thinking, we are just men who are taking care of the things that matter most.
Click to expand...

You would be able to maximize the benefits of ScratchX 2.0 by using a DA & a foam pad.
 
I discovered this Meguiars chart (attached) showing the reformulated ScratchX 2.0 has a stronger cut than the original version. This suggests that one doesn't need to apply the same degree of pressure to get the desired result.
 
Smoothy said:
Just adding to my last post ...

There is a lot of good advice/videos on the forum describing how to apply ScratchX.

What I am not sure about is if the techniques described have changed with Gen 2 of ScratchX and the reformulation from a dissolving abrasive to non-dissolving micro-abrasives.
Click to expand...


The technique would be the same. I outline how to work by hand here,


How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand


Notice my hand is a blur? That's because I'm moving my hand very fast over the surface with very firm pressure. In this picture I'm remove #3000 grit sanding marks next to a raised body line.

RemvovingSandingMarksbyHand01.jpg


RemvovingSandingMarksbyHand02.jpg


  • Always work clean
  • Use a clean, soft foam applicator pad, I really like these,

    CCS Red Wax/Sealant Applicator Pads 2 Pack

    Because they are fairly thick so the spread out the pressure of your fingers better than thinner versions.

    (I like thinner versions for applying finishing waxes and sealants because then I'm not pushing hard so don't need the thickness).
  • Work on a cool surface in the shade
  • Work a small area at a time, about 8" to 10" squarish or so...
  • Use an "ample" amount of product, don't under-use and don't overuse to the point that you hyper-lubricate the surface but use enough to keep the surface lubricated throughout the process. I would use a teaspoon to a tablespoon of product, usually a tablespoon's amount to start with because your pad is dry when you start and some of the product is going to go into the pad, and after breaking in your pad then cut down to about a teaspoon's amount of product.
  • Hold your hand flat to the pad, not vertical, the idea is to not put pressure ONLY on your fingertips but over the face of your fingers to avoid Fingermarks
  • Spread the product out over the area you're going to work
  • Work the product for about a minute, don't work till the product is dry, but it should go from an opaque film to a clear film
  • Wipe off before residue dries
  • When you move on to a new area overlap a little into the previous area


Before going over an entire panel or an entire car, first do a "Test Spot" and make sure you're getting the results you want and hope for. If you can't make one small area look good with your choice of product, pad and "your technique" then you'll be glad you only worked on a small section to start with or to test and not went over the entire panel or car.

When working on clear coats by hand to actually "remove" defects, technique is just as important as your choice of product and pad, (pad = application material).

So do a Test Spot first.


:)
 
CM8 6MT said:
You would be able to maximize the benefits of ScratchX 2.0 by using a DA & a foam pad.
Click to expand...


That's true for removing defects that are throughout the finish, but sometimes you will be more effective if you're trying to remove a single scratch to work by hand or more specifically, with 2-3 fingers pushing down against an applicator pad.

The reason for this is because you can exert a LOT of force to the surface with just 2-3 fingers, enough force that if you used this same force with a DA Polisher you would likely stop the pad from rotating.

For removing isolated defects by hand I'll usually start with either a piece of terry cloth, something I simply cut out of a clean, terry cloth towel and then re-polish the area using a foam applicator pad to remove any toweling marks inflicted by pushing hard and fast with terry cloth.

Terry cloth, specifically the "nap" acts as a form of abrasive in and of itself plus increases the aggressiveness of any abrasive product you're using.

This helps you to remove paint fast and thus level the surface but it can leave marring from the aggressive action and the fibers from the towel. That's why I start with terry cloth, (to get the job done), but finish with foam, (to make the paint look good).

Same kind of analogy that I showed in my rotary buffer class yesterday at Detail Fest. I started with a wool pad, (fibers) and finished with foam.


I have rubbed through factory clear coat paint when working by hand so you can in-fact remove a lot of paint with a couple of fingers and any abrasive polish. So here's something I've been typing for years now...


"You can't always remove a scratch but you can usually improve a scratch"


The point being that you can't alway remove a scratch 100% so that it is no longer visible at all but you can often time improve a scratch so it is much, much less noticeable and therefor you can live with it as it bugs you less than before or less than having the panel repainted.



:)
 
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