"Scuffs" on a clear bra...

CrownKote

CrownKote

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Hello all I am currently working on a 05 C6 Vette.

The car is practically covered in clear bra (not that it is bad just in a few spots)

I have tried a few products on this area and diff pads and speeds but nothing seems to be getting the scuff marks out...

Here is what I have tried:

White pad - KAIO -didn't touch it
Orange pad - Megs UC - nothing
Yellow pad - Megs UC - Nada
Orange pad - Prima Cut -zip
Orange pad - PB MC - Zilch!
Megs MF Cut - D301 -wowsers again nada

I tried these all at diff speeds and pressures but nothing...

Here is the "Scuffing"
IMAG1365.jpg


I need help with this one and FAST please!!!! BTW you can't catch it with you fingernail and it is not under the bra...
 
Below was a response I got to an email I sent in regarding Xpel. Obviously Xpel is a 3M company so they suggested their products but you could use something similar. I tried it out and it worked well for me

The best solution is going to be to use 3M Perfect -It part# 06064 Machine Polish, with the coordinating buffing pad part# 05738. #Use a an Orbital buffer at the lowest speed and then gradually progress up as needed. #This must be done very carefully so that you don't burn through the film. #I usually hit the area a few times for about 15-30 seconds each time. #If this doesn't work the stain might have seeped through the pores under the top coat and could be perminent.
Click to expand...
 
Twister said:
Below was a response I got to an email I sent in regarding Xpel. Obviously Xpel is a 3M company so they suggested their products but you could use something similar. I tried it out and it worked well for me
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply... The problem is that the mark is not a stain... it was from a car show a year or so back that someone had rubbed up against it with something... It can't be felt but obviously can be seen...
 
Twister said:
Below was a response I got to an email I sent in regarding Xpel. Obviously Xpel is a 3M company so they suggested their products but you could use something similar. I tried it out and it worked well for me
Click to expand...

@Twister: No, XPel is not a 3m company. YET:)
They suggested a "least aggressive" method for your stain removal. I'm glad it worked for you. It has worked for me on occasion, also.

@CrownCoat: All PPF manufacturers recommend Premier Protection Films International's PF-1 T.T.R. for removing "scuffs". It's the best, IMO.
If so interested for future usage:
510.406.1500
510.623.1308
sales@premiermobilegroup (add a .com)

I've also had success with 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (3M # 05928) on a foam polishing pad, speed 2-3 on the PC, with very light pressure. Make sure to not linger more than 15-20 seconds on any area. You can always go back if needed..don't want to overheat the PPF. Apply a clear sealant when finished.

Sometimes "scuffs" and other blemishes just won't come out. Relay the message to the customer that solace can be taken that the underlying paint has not been compromised, Afterall, another piece of PPF is less costly than a re-spray...moreso than the painter's "Corvette Tax" that he undoubtedly would impose.

Hope this helps some.

Bob
 
I have used the following for Invisible Bra or PPF correction for scratches.........

Rotary polisher with a Megs W-7204 and M205 at 1800 rpm....then use the rotary with a W-8204 and M205 and jewel to a shine, then wax or seal.

Be patient, be sure to buff cool and do not heat the film. If the M205 doesnt correct the scratches try a drop or 2 of M105 on the W-7204 then finish off with a W-8204 and M205 and jewel to a shine..then wax or seal...

Good luck.....
 
Those things are made to resist everything. What did you expect, lol. Keep at it with least agressive and move to more agressive slowly. It will be hard to resist something very agressive but you will be glad you did in the end. Any posibbility of just replacing the scuffed piece?
 
FUNX725 said:
@Twister: No, XPel is not a 3m company. YET:)
They suggested a "least aggressive" method for your stain removal. I'm glad it worked for you. It has worked for me on occasion, also.

@CrownCoat: All PPF manufacturers recommend Premier Protection Films International's PF-1 T.T.R. for removing "scuffs". It's the best, IMO.
If so interested for future usage:
510.406.1500
510.623.1308
sales@premiermobilegroup (add a .com)

I've also had success with 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (3M # 05928) on a foam polishing pad, speed 2-3 on the PC, with very light pressure. Make sure to not linger more than 15-20 seconds on any area. You can always go back if needed..don't want to overheat the PPF. Apply a clear sealant when finished.

Sometimes "scuffs" and other blemishes just won't come out. Relay the message to the customer that solace can be taken that the underlying paint has not been compromised, Afterall, another piece of PPF is less costly than a re-spray...moreso than the painter's "Corvette Tax" that he undoubtedly would impose.

Hope this helps some.

Bob
Click to expand...

Innovative said:
I have used the following for Invisible Bra or PPF correction for scratches.........

Rotary polisher with a Megs W-7204 and M205 at 1800 rpm....then use the rotary with a W-8204 and M205 and jewel to a shine, then wax or seal.

Be patient, be sure to buff cool and do not heat the film. If the M205 doesnt correct the scratches try a drop or 2 of M105 on the W-7204 then finish off with a W-8204 and M205 and jewel to a shine..then wax or seal...

Good luck.....
Click to expand...

kimtyson said:
Those things are made to resist everything. What did you expect, lol. Keep at it with least agressive and move to more agressive slowly. It will be hard to resist something very agressive but you will be glad you did in the end. Any posibbility of just replacing the scuffed piece?
Click to expand...


Thank you all for the help...

I have tried everything and nothing is working... Oh well...

As far as replacing the piece it is the front bumper and it is all one piece... So no it wouldn't be feasible...
 
@CrownKote:

First:
Chris, sorry about the earlier reply where I mispelled your avatar.
Second:
The reason I added this statement in my post (#4 of your thread).....

"Sometimes "scuffs" and other blemishes just won't come out. Relay the message to the customer that solace can be taken that the underlying paint has not been compromised, Afterall, another piece of PPF is less costly than a re-spray...moreso than the painter's "Corvette Tax" that he undoubtedly would impose".

...was to share some information regarding the removal process (buffing) of the PPF. To me, it is similar to buffing a bc/cc paint's top-coating in the cautions one must take.

There are three layers to PPF: The "protective polyurethane" top-coating; the middle layer of polyurethane; and the lower layer of adhesive baking.

There are also two versions of PPF. One version has a "protective" PU top-coating of an aliphatic polyurethane. The other version has a "protective" aromatic polyurethane top-coating.
Long story short:): Aliphatic PU is non-yellowing; has the best UV/color stability and weathering protection; excellent chemical resistance; and resists staining. It is the best for exterior applications. Aromatic PU, although excellent in some of the above categories, is more susceptible to yellowing, less UV/color stability, and is recommended for indoor/underground applications. The PPF with the aliphatic PU top-coating is, of course, more expensive. It is also the best for automotive purposes.

Herein lies the comparison I make between PPF's top-coatings and clear-coat top-coated paint. We are told by OEMs, and others, to not remove more than .5 mils total of 2-2.5 mils of this clear-coat paint's top-coat because there is where the majority of the UV protection/inhibitors lay. With PPF the "protective" top-coating layer, that has the UV protection and other inhibitors, is usually only between .3 and .5 mils thick.

To me, this would mean an adjustment in ones buffing process thinking. Whereas removal of .5 or less mils from the clear-coat may be acceptible, removal of that same amount of the PPF's "protective" PU top-coating may make the PPF look good now, but would surely increase the possibility for the PPF to start yellowing and "fail" prematurely....and, thusly, would void any warranties.

Note: There are some blemishes on sections of my PPF that I'm going to live with until the warranty expires.....I put it on to better enjoy my ride without so many worries of paint blemishes occuring...We have FUN in it!!!

Just some thoughts I had regarding PPF.

Bob


Edit:

Chris...Sorry you had no luck....If you want to, relay the above message to your customer. It may help his thinking process on this matter. I bet you probably enjoy him being a customer. I'd also bet he wants you as his detailer!:)
 
Last edited:
FUNX725 said:
@CrownKote:

First:
Chris, sorry about the earlier reply where I mispelled your avatar.
Second:
The reason I added this statement in my post (#4 of your thread).....

"Sometimes "scuffs" and other blemishes just won't come out. Relay the message to the customer that solace can be taken that the underlying paint has not been compromised, Afterall, another piece of PPF is less costly than a re-spray...moreso than the painter's "Corvette Tax" that he undoubtedly would impose".

...was to share some information regarding the removal process (buffing) of the PPF. To me, it is similar to buffing a bc/cc paint's top-coating in the cautions one must take.

There are three layers to PPF: The "protective polyurethane" top-coating; the middle layer of polyurethane; and the lower layer of adhesive baking.

There are also two versions of PPF. One version has a "protective" PU top-coating of an aliphatic polyurethane. The other version has a "protective" aromatic polyurethane top-coating.
Long story short:): Aliphatic PU is non-yellowing; has the best UV/color stability and weathering protection; excellent chemical resistance; and resists staining. It is the best for exterior applications. Aromatic PU, although excellent in some of the above categories, is more susceptible to yellowing, less UV/color stability, and is recommended for indoor/underground applications. The PPF with the aliphatic PU top-coating is, of course, more expensive. It is also the best for automotive purposes.

Herein lies the comparison I make between PPF's top-coatings and clear-coat top-coated paint. We are told by OEMs, and others, to not remove more than .5 mils total of 2-2.5 mils of this clear-coat paint's top-coat because there is where the majority of the UV protection/inhibitors lay. With PPF the "protective" top-coating layer, that has the UV protection and other inhibitors, is usually only between .3 and .5 mils thick.

To me, this would mean an adjustment in ones buffing process thinking. Whereas removal of .5 or less mils from the clear-coat may be acceptible, removal of that same amount of the PPF's "protective" PU top-coating may make the PPF look good now, but would surely increase the possibility for the PPF to start yellowing and "fail" prematurely....and, thusly, would void any warranties.

Just some thoughts I had regarding PPF.

Bob
Click to expand...

No problem on the misspell... Happens all the time... lol...

He knows very well that it may not have come out... and is ok with that...

I found out that last night his wife fessed up to causing the scuff on the bumper when she took it to wash it about 3 months ago... She washed it properly (for what he has taught her according to him) then she used the California Water Blade that he showed her how to use (I hate those things!) but she forgot that he said not to use it on any of the bra... So that is what happened...

As far as buffing down the bra He will be getting it redone under war in January (installer defects bubbles and peeling under a corner as well as waves) and he said don't worry about perfection on it... So at this point I am not...

I will possibly be taking a course in clear bra installation at the end of this year and the info you just gave me is priceless! Thank you!!!!

I have been doing those super thick mil headlight vinyl covers on cars for a bit now and those are cake! I am in the process (in my minimal spare time) of taking all of the clear bra off the Z3 then I will install the kit I got for it myself to see if it is something that I will be prosperous at or have troubles with etc...

I hate how they look when not done properly and I am a perfectionist so IDK if it will be something I will be willing to do or not for customers... I already do window tinting and that has it's own set of problems that comes with it...
 
CrownKote said:
As far as buffing down the bra...he said don't worry about perfection on it... So at this point I am not...

Great news.

I will possibly be taking a course in clear bra installation at the end of this year and the info you just gave me is priceless. Thank you!!!!

It's a very lucrative business! Good luck on your training.


I have been doing those super thick mil headlight vinyl covers on cars for a bit now and those are cake!

Yes. 30 mils vs. the 6-8 mil clear bras. :)

I am in the process (in my minimal spare time) of taking all of the clear bra off the Z3 then I will install the kit I got for it myself to see if it is something that I will be prosperous at or have troubles with etc...



I already do window tinting ...also, a properous side business
Click to expand...

A friend of mine relocated to Cincy, Ohio to work at (not for) the high-end vehicle dealerships installing PPF and professional detailing. He loves these installs at these places of business (he uses their facilities), the clientel, and of course the pay scale he can charge, along with tips. After your training is completed, I hope you do as well!

Bob
 
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