Sealants with short cure times

greger

greger

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Hello,

As you can tell I am new to the forums. I have been lurking and learning now for a little bit. I got my UDM and some pads from AG now thinking of some new products.

I am having a difficult time trying to find a sealant that has a short cure time. The only thing I have found is CG jetseal which AG does not sell and is somewhat pricey.

Are there any other sealants that have the ability to be layered/cured in a relatively short time(half hour to hour) and eventually topped with a wax. I will probably top w either DP Max Wax or Collinite 845 for winter

thanks
g
 
I use Poorboys EX-P and liquid souveran. It cures in 30-60 mins but i try to leave it on for longer.. there are a couple more cant think of the names but im sure ull get a few replies soon
 
You can layer opti-seal with an hour cure time.
 
XMT 360 is a sealent and you can put a wax ontop straight after applying it. :)
 
+1 for Optiseal. Cures very quickly, can be layered within an hour, probably less.
 
Sealants that offer longer durability will cure longer...for example Klasse SG - Minimum 12 hours, recommended - 24 hours...
 
Poorboys EX-P offers 3-6 months protection - anyone have experience to back that up?
 
DG 105 preceeded with 601 will cure right away. You can then layer a carnuba or whatever you want.
 
I forgot all about the opti-seal how its a WOWO type of product. I have read some mixed reviews as far as the durability/protection it offers but its def an option. I could have sworn PB EX-P needed at least 12 hours to cure as that was on of my first choices.

I like the Duragloss line as I use their car wash already. The DG 601 and 105 sounds like a winning combo, topped off with a little Max Wax or Collinite 845.

I wonder if the 601 has any paint correction in it or if I need something to take care of swirls and light scratches first. I know there are a couple of duragloss mad scientists on the forum wonder if they mixed some DG 101 & 601 together.

Thanks for the info guys
g
 
greger said:
I forgot all about the opti-seal how its a WOWO type of product. I have read some mixed reviews as far as the durability/protection it offers but its def an option. I could have sworn PB EX-P needed at least 12 hours to cure as that was on of my first choices.

I like the Duragloss line as I use their car wash already. The DG 601 and 105 sounds like a winning combo, topped off with a little Max Wax or Collinite 845.

I wonder if the 601 has any paint correction in it or if I need something to take care of swirls and light scratches first. I know there are a couple of duragloss mad scientists on the forum wonder if they mixed some DG 101 & 601 together.

Thanks for the info guys
g
Click to expand...

The 601 will not do any corrections at all..and DO NOT mix it with any product...its a stand alone product....also 601 works best by hand...using a PC causes it to flash fast and can give a dull result....it goes on so easy..plus do not buff it off..just go over it with 105 and then buff off after 30-45 minutes....

AL
 
heres a pic of the exact combo AL-53 is talking about..i did this SUV almost a year ago to date other then some swirls DG has held up pretty good..i see the Trailblazer everyday and the owner has kept it up with a regular rigimen of AW and the vehicles appearence is similiar today as the day it was polished...

joescarwash071.jpg
 
Al-53 said:
The 601 will not do any corrections at all..and DO NOT mix it with any product
AL
Click to expand...

Al Not to worry I wont be breaking out the chemisty set anytime soon. The only mixing I ever did was when I was home brewing a few years back.

I will def give the DG 601 & 105 combo a shot and use the method you suggested. Do you think its ok to use a PC to apply the 105. Also how long after I buff the 105 can I apply an LSP like 845?

This leads me to another question since I need a polish to remove some swirl marks left by the previous owner what would you recommend.

I was going to give the Menz 106ff a shot since I have read nothing but rave reviews about it till I saw the price tag.

I know the answer depends on the amount of correction needed and the vehicle type etc. My vehicle is a 2004 Black Accord which I think has the softest clear of any car I have ever seen, you breath on it and it gets a scratch. The paints in pretty good shape but has a decent amount of swirls and some light surface scratches from what I can tell.

thanks
g
 
greger said:
Al Not to worry I wont be breaking out the chemisty set anytime soon. The only mixing I ever did was when I was home brewing a few years back.

I will def give the DG 601 & 105 combo a shot and use the method you suggested. Do you think its ok to use a PC to apply the 105. Also how long after I buff the 105 can I apply an LSP like 845?

This leads me to another question since I need a polish to remove some swirl marks left by the previous owner what would you recommend.

I was going to give the Menz 106ff a shot since I have read nothing but rave reviews about it till I saw the price tag.

I know the answer depends on the amount of correction needed and the vehicle type etc. My vehicle is a 2004 Black Accord which I think has the softest clear of any car I have ever seen, you breath on it and it gets a scratch. The paints in pretty good shape but has a decent amount of swirls and some light surface scratches from what I can tell.

thanks
g
Click to expand...

You can apply an LSP right after the 601/105 combo. I hate the smell of 601 BTW, not that it really matters. You could add another coat of 845 in a day or 2 after, just to ensure uniform coverage. As for 106..anyone who has read any of my S & S's knows I swear by the stuff b/c it works and works very, very, well. It's like that old saying "Why is divorce SO expensive..the answer..b/c it's SO WORTH IT!" Not that I am, BTW, but it is funny nonetheless. Buy it, you will be very happy, I promise.;)
 
Pauly6401 said:
Poorboys EX-P offers 3-6 months protection - anyone have experience to back that up?
Click to expand...

That is the biggest joke ever, EX-P is the only Poorboys product that I'm disappointed with. It looks OK, but has absolutely no durability. Beading is awful and it doens't last but a single wash. Hence, it just sits on my shelf...
 
richy said:
You can apply an LSP right after the 601/105 combo. I hate the smell of 601 BTW, not that it really matters. You could add another coat of 845 in a day or 2 after, just to ensure uniform coverage. As for 106..anyone who has read any of my S & S's knows I swear by the stuff b/c it works and works very, very, well. It's like that old saying "Why is divorce SO expensive..the answer..b/c it's SO WORTH IT!" Not that I am, BTW, but it is funny nonetheless. Buy it, you will be very happy, I promise.;)
Click to expand...

Your right I should just pull the trigger on the 106, just wondering if it will be too harsh for my soft honda paint, being its for the newer/harder ceramic clears. I am also considering the 1Z High gloss polish, it supposed to be comparable but at half the price.

g
 
Hey Al-53, can you post exactly how to use the Duragloss polishes? 101, 105,111, and the marine versions? Which one's give the best look to you and what each one does exactly? I'm going to print it as a guide when you post it;) I always get confused with DG "polishes", which are actually sealants not polishes, correct? Thanks for your expertise on this product!!!
 
I can help a little here as I have been studying the DG line and reading every post I could find. The cleaners will do only slight correction. Having said that, I did a car the other night (my father-in-law's..it had better be good, right?) that had over spray from a stupid neighbour who decided to paint his porch with a spray can...asswipe. I used the marine 501with a white ccs pad with a rotary and udm (depending on the area and hard to reach-ness) and it corrected the problem.
Anyway, the cleaners are either the stronger, aforementioned marine 501 or the automotive 101. The 601 is a bonding agent that works like epoxy glues that you mix. It gets applied, sits till it hazes, then gets either 105 or 111 applied over top. The 111 is an older formula (although to me the writeup sounds better) that is not as good as the 105. The cleaner/sealant combo (with or without 601) is what gives that wet look and incredible sealant abilities. The 601 is optional..the advantage is that it cures right away so if you want to top it with a 'nuba then you can without waiting. For weekend detailers like me, that's the only way I can use the line, otherwise I wouldn't have the time to wait for curing.
 
dengood1 said:
Hey Al-53, can you post exactly how to use the Duragloss polishes? 101, 105,111, and the marine versions? Which one's give the best look to you and what each one does exactly? I'm going to print it as a guide when you post it;) I always get confused with DG "polishes", which are actually sealants not polishes, correct? Thanks for your expertise on this product!!!
Click to expand...


Ok ..I will do a little info write up...starting with 501 since its the strongest...


501...is a sealant cleaner combo...like AIO....it is the strongest cleaner of the bunch...so will not layer....when I used it I use a PC with a white CCS pad on speed 3...it does have micro abrasives in ..but are very micro and will not do any real corrections ..more of just polish the surface to a gloss and it has a nice wet look to it....DG says this has the same protection durability as 105....it also has some salt inhibitors to repel salt attacking...since it was designed for Marine use...

I have also used by hand with great results...remember these were primarily designed to be used by hand..there is no power polisher info on the bottles that I have seen....but we refined it a bit....I asked DG after I have used by machine and was told to low speeds so they do not flash to fast and you dull polish the sealant finish..so 3 speed was my top speed for the cleaner sealants...

101....this is sorta the same as 501 but with less cleaner...it has micro abrasives also....but as said to just refine to surface shine ..and may do a little lite marring removal like 501.....it has a very nice look also...again white pad speed 3 ...you can use a blue pad if you like....but the white has just a little bite to it to help with the cleaners and micro abrasives....this goes for 501 also..you can use blue with it .....

105...its a combo of a sealant and resins and a very lite cleaner......the resins sorta mimic a waxed look....now I apply this by hand....found it gives best looks this way....I use a megs yellow pad or a blue pad on a polish pal....the megs pad will stick to the polish pal....the cleaner is very mild..just enough to ensure a clean surface on the paint...and you can layer this by doing it by hand...but 2 coats is all you need ..do a few days apart or a week or at least 24 hours.,....but wait 24 hours since this is the slowest curing product they make...it may be do the the resins added....since it does say synthetic polymer/wax formula....only one that makes that claim also..


111....this is probably the closest one to a pure sealant they have..it does have a cleaner...but I never seen it really clean like the 101 or 501...the application pad comes out just about clean ..not like 101 or 501 it comes up black..the 501 more so....

now the 111 is a hand applied product..as told by DG ...its best to apply with foam applicator or a MF pad....this product is very layer able also and probably the fastest curing....just do thin coats....here's where we differ from DG,.....they say it will do 2 complete cars on 1 bottles...they slather the stuff on...lol...you should get at least 8-10 cars from a bottle depending on size of vehicle...I use 1 oz for my truck on doing 105 as my LSP...

the look of 111 is sorta like either the old Z2 or Klasse SG...very glossy but lacking any real depth....and it is good lasting product....4-5 months before dropping off.....


601..the polish bonding agent....this is a creme cleaner and a catalyst combo...it does clean the surface of any dying wax or sealant...it also combines with the sealant like 111 105 even 101 to act as a hardener to the sealant...it makes the protective shell a little harder...and add some durability and a little extra gloss...

Now this is NOT a fast curing agent..it will not cure it in a hour....its a cleaner/sealant enhancement product....sorta like polycharger in extending the life of the sealant and adding some gloss and hardness...

This can be use with any sealant also...but not Klasse or JW since they are acrylic based ....

in the summer I do not bother with the 601 since I play alot with the finish on the truck..test stuff and such..but come winter I do use it....since it has to go from Late Oct to May...so I do 601....105x2....and AW when I can....I may try the 501 this winter and do the collinite topper like I use to do ....last year was the first year I did not use collinite cause I wanted to see how 105 stood up to winter and road slt and grime..did very well


well here is a lttle info...any questions ask...or call DG..lol....

Al
 
Man, thanks a lot! That was a great help. Nice job explaining the DG line in detail. You get an "A" in my book!!!!! Thanks again.
 
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