Should I treat fiberglass bumper covers any different from metal, when correcting paint?

[DaveBa]

Are there any steps of a paint correction process which should not be performed on painted fiberglass bumpers?

Thanks to Mike's videos, and to the expertise of the members of the AutoGeek forum, I have successfully corrected the painted metal on my 2007 Honda CRV. My steps were; wash; Iron-X; clay; wash; tape; M105; wash; M205; wash; Menzerna Top Inspection wipedown; CG EZ-Creme glaze; BFWD sealant (2 coats).

My bumpers do not need a full correction process, and I was thinking of skipping the M105/205 and going straight to the glaze and seal.

Should I include the glaze step? In case I need to do so in the future, can M105/205 steps be used on a painted fiberglass bumper?

Thanks for any advice!
Dave.

 

[7PaintGuns]

Hi Dave. First of all your bumper is flexible plastic and not fiberglass. The reason I point this out is because plastic heats up under the friction of a buffer a lot faster than the metal surface on your car or painted fiberglass. I have warped a few bumpers and have definitely burned through some edges in the past because of this. What are you using machine wise for your corrections?

 

[craigdt]

I wouldnt skip the correction steps, but be mindful of the different way it will dissipate heat, VS a metal panel.

Just go a bit slower, maybe reduce your pressure a bit, remember you are working on a plastic panel, and you will be fine.

 

[DaveBa]

Hi Dave. First of all your bumper is flexible plastic and not fiberglass. The reason I point this out is because plastic heats up under the friction of a buffer a lot faster than the metal surface on your car or painted fiberglass. I have warped a few bumpers and have definitely burned through some edges in the past because of this. What are you using machine wise for your corrections?

Thanks for the reply, and for correcting me regarding the bumper material, 7. Much appreciated! I'm using a Griot's 6 inch DA, generation 3. I use 5 inch and 3 inch pads and would be using the 3 inch pad for this work.

Since I'll be applying glaze and sealant, I'll be using no additional pressure. But it's good to know the modifications in my process that I'll have to make, in case I ever need to do a more substantial correction.

Thanks, again!
Dave

 

[DaveBa]

I wouldnt skip the correction steps, but be mindful of the different way it will dissipate heat, VS a metal panel.

Just go a bit slower, maybe reduce your pressure a bit, remember you are working on a plastic panel, and you will be fine.

Thanks, Craig. I'll certainly keep that in mind.

Getting advice from others with experience makes it so much easier for beginners like me. I really appreciate your stepping in and commenting.

Dave