I have a nice Galaxy 500 it's well it looks like black cherry single stage paint .
What year?
We've had one 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 LX here for our Detailing boot Camp Class, this was the car we used to teach how to use the Rupes Bigfoot Paint Polishing System.
Detailing Classes - 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 XL
I had another 1963 Galaxy here with a modern basecoat/clearcoat finish in dire need of polishing. I used it for an article to show that over time paint becomes dirty and the kind of dirty that doesn't wash off.
How to remove stains and embedded dirt out of paint
Paint Staining
Sometimes you'll hear the word stain or staining when talking about the condition of the paint. Another term would be embedded dirt.
The
1963 Galaxy has a modern basecoat/clearcoat finish. After using the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad over all the horizontal surfaces I removed any and all above surface contaminants. In the video I repeated the baggie test multiple times to check and ensure all the contaminants were removed and in fact they were.
So where does the dirt come from? It's embedded in the microscopic surface imperfections of the paint. Here's a brand new white foam polishing pad next to the single pad I used to machine apply the Optimum GPS.
Here's after machine polishing...
And I used the same above Galaxie to show how to use Nanoskin products....
How To Use Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on 4 Different DA Polishers
Very cool cars....
:dblthumb2:
I've got some Wolfgang swirl remover on its way with finish glaze will the two add the look I and customer want for a show?
Is the paint already in nice condition? I mean does it already look "pretty good". It's clear and glossy, not chalky and oxidized?
IF the answer is "yes" then those two products will WORK GREAT!
I have not worked on single stage paint much. all advice is welcome!
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN BUFFING AROUND ANY RAISED BODY LINE OR EDGE OF A PANEL.
Single stage paint tends to be much softer than basecoat/clearcoat paints. So don't buff on top of edges and raised body lines.
Also... here's what I teach in my detailing boot camp classes....
YOU DON'T KNOW WHO BUFFED ON THIS CAR BEFORE YOU. YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY USED. YOU CERTAINLY DON'T KNOW IF THEY WERE AS CAREFUL AS YOU'RE GOING TO BE.
The people that have buffed out this car before you may have been what I call Caveman Detailers. The kind of detailers that use aggressive compounds and wool pads on rotary buffers. (nothing wrong with wool pads, rotary buffers and compounds if you know what you're doing).
They may not have been careful on raised body lines and edges. Here's what that means to you.
The paint on a raised body line or an edge is what I call,
Whisper Thin
That means while it looks okay it's super thin. Anyone... ANYONE that buffs the car next by hand or machine will burn through it.
Is it your fault? Not if the other guy did the initial damage but you'll get the blame because you're the person that broke through.
So be very careful around edges and body lines because you don't know who buffed out this car before you, how many people have buffed it out over the years nor what they used.
Here's what you do....
Buff up to and edge don't buff ON the edge.
Buff up to a raised body line... don't buff ON the raised body line.
And will 2 pads be enough?
2 pads will be enough for two body panels.
These cars are HUGE! You want approximately one pad for each body panel, maybe two for the largest body panels like the hood, roof and trunk lid. Especially for the first step.
For the second step you can get away with about 4 pads to do your best work.
When pads become wet with product the performance of the pad and therefor the process is diminished. This means you're spinning your wheels.
Get more pads. Charge for them.
I'm guessing you're using a Porter Cable 7424 or some copy of it?
And is wg swirl remover a polish?
Yes. It is a medium cut polish.
In my how-to book on
page 92 and 93 I explain that EVERY COMPOUND OR POLISH on the market can be placed into 1 of 4 categories and then list the categories.
Get a copy of my
book and read it. You'll learn a LOT. I guarantee it.
It's just as in-depth and packed with information as this reply I just typed out for you.
Hope I'm not over my head!
You're going to do fine, you just need some more pads.
Single stage paint is
REAL paint.
Modern basecoat/clearcoats are basically a type of clear plastic.
Here's the practical difference.... single stage paint, (real paint), is actually fun and rewarding to polish. Basecoat/clearcoats paints, (plastic paints), are just plain work.
Enjoy the project.
I always recommend getting GREAT before pictures like my friend and 2-time student to my
Detailing Boot Camp Class did when he restored the paint on this old Dodge....
1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
He used a ladder to get these shots.... see how POWERFUL they are? Worth the time in my opinion....
Here's Greg learning how to use the Flex 3401 with a 4" backing plate and a 5" Hybrid pad on a 1940 Ford Coupe Hotrod.
Here's Craig learning the way of the Flex 3401 on a 1940 Ford Coupe...
Pictures & Comments from September 2012 Detailing Boot Camp
For what it's worth... my
detailing boot camp classes are almost all hands-on for three days in a row.
Get signed up for a class, you'll learn more in three days than you will in a lifetime of trial and error. I guarantee it.
Hope the above helps....
I'm already looking forward to your before and after pictures...
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