Small black dots/deposits on wheels - safest way to remove ?

I went to the dealer in 1986 and sat in one, I pushed down on the turn signal lever to test it out and it broke off!!
I calmly got out of the car and walked out the door...
The Yugo? Wasn't it Malcolm Bricklin who imported them? I looked it up, the Hyundai Excel was the car I was thinking of, and it wasn't cheaper than the Yugo, it was $1000 more, but it was a "real" car and sold a record number for a first-year importer. As I said, I knew someone that had one.
 
The Yugo? Wasn't it Malcolm Bricklin who imported them? I looked it up, the Hyundai Excel was the car I was thinking of, and it wasn't cheaper than the Yugo, it was $1000 more, but it was a "real" car and sold a record number for a first-year importer. As I said, I knew someone that had one.
Yepper

The Yugo was imported to the United States by entrepreneur Malcolm Bricklin in 1985, and he marketed the car from 1985 to 1992.
 
If it wasn't clear, the product Bosko recommended isn't a color changing one. However, I wouldn't be concerned about the color-changing ones damaging a factory finish. If you want one that doesn't smell, try the Stoners Odorless Iron Remover. I would try to loosen them up first with some wheel cleaner before trying to dislodge them with a brush or clay.
Its a Subaru STI

Thinking about trying Optimum Ferrex, seems to be a very good product, I also have clay & ONR coming in soon
 
The Ferrex is good, it uses a different thioglycolate than some of them, so it smells slightly less offensive. I would use that first, with a soft brush or what I usually use for corners like that is a microfiber wheel brush, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dickno-Wheel...x=microfiber+wheel+brush,aps,118&sr=8-39&th=1 although those look like a really crappy version of what I have.

You can also agitate with a gloved finger or a microfiber towel, what I'm getting at is you want to loosen the iron particle (if that's what it is), so you get the whole thing out, rather than just "shaving" it off with the clay (possibly) and leaving some behind. So you probably want to apply the Ferrex again after you think you've got it, to make sure it's not "bleeding" anymore.

As Nate alluded to above, these metallic particles (if that's what it is) can etch into the paint leaving pitting.

EDIT: I wasn't suggesting you shouldn't clay, that's fine, just check with the Ferrex after to make sure it's all gone.
 
I bet this would work..

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That's a good idea, Eldo, I forgot they made a paste of Iron-X, if I ever knew that.
 
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