Solvent pop after wet sanding clear runs ?

[pier-pressure]

After wet sanding some runs all the way to 3000, I wiped down and noticed little specs that looked like grains of sand. The surface is smooth and you cannot feel the grains, someone said it was solvent pop to let the clear sit a couple of more days and then sand again 1500 - 3000. The clear was done about a week ago, laid enough clear to be able to sand and finish, is this possibly solvent pop ? if so is there any fixing it ?

Not sure how to upload my image here.

 

[pier-pressure]

Sorry not solvent pops, I have some of those, after consulting a friend that does body work he said its probably clear that was not cured and when wet sanding got dragged a bit and watter is what made white specs. Again said to let sit for a couple of days and try to resand. Anyone have this isse and able to correct it ?

By the way those trizact discs are awesome, going to order the 5000 cant imagine how smooth thats gonna be and glossy.

Hope this works for image
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/album.php?albumid=468&pictureid=2874

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I have know idea how you put the picture where you put it? Here it is in all it's glorry...


Not sure what this is? One thing for sure it doesn't look like more and more leveling, (sanding and buffing), will remove it unless the paint is thick and this defect is in the upper portion of the paint.

Could this have been water moisture in the line?


We have some real painters here, maybe they can chime in...


And "yes" the new 3M 5000 discs are very cool in that they are very non-aggressive and the sanding marks buff out quick and easy.

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Yes that is indeed solvent pop and the only way to correct it is to re sand untill all are removed and then re clear. What happened on that spot was the clear was sprayed too heavy and there wasnt enough time for the clear to flash before the next coat was put down. When the next coat was put on without enough flash time it did cover the first layer but when the first layer had to breath it created what is called solvent pop which is the reducer trying to breath.

Do you know what paint gun and paint system was used?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Yes that is indeed solvent pop and the only way to correct it is to re sand until all are removed and then re clear.

What happened on that spot was the clear was sprayed too heavy and there wasn't enough time for the clear to flash before the next coat was put down.

When the next coat was put on without enough flash time it did cover the first layer but when the first layer had to breath it created what is called solvent pop which is the reducer trying to breath.

Thanks for chiming in Mike...

I've seen solvent pop in paint before but never so bad it showed up as opaque or even white, must be a more extreme example?



:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Thanks for chiming in Mike...

I've seen solvent pop in paint before but never so bad it showed up as opaque or even white, must be a more extreme example?



:xyxthumbs:

No problem Mike. Almost didnt see this thread. This is a classic example of not waiting long enough between coats.

What happened was the first layer didnt flash completly when the second coat was applied and the second coat flashed before the first layer did creating a barrier that those air bubble werent allowed to penetrate.

 

[pier-pressure]

Thanks for chiming in Mike...

I've seen solvent pop in paint before but never so bad it showed up as opaque or even white, must be a more extreme example?



:xyxthumbs:

Thanks both of you. Gonna sand tomorrow hoping its high enough to correct but I am doubtful since it feels so smooth. Is repair a possibility ?

 

[pier-pressure]

Im gonna sand down to 3000 with a porter cable 7424xp. Do you think I can remove sand marks with the PC7424xp 3m rubbing comp and a cutting foam ? Or do I need a rotary ?

 

[PERFECTIONPLUS]

:

Yes that is indeed solvent pop and the only way to correct it is to re sand untill all are removed and then re clear. What happened on that spot was the clear was sprayed too heavy and there wasnt enough time for the clear to flash before the next coat was put down. When the next coat was put on without enough flash time it did cover the first layer but when the first layer had to breath it created what is called solvent pop which is the reducer trying to breath.

Do you know what paint gun and paint system was used?

:iagree: you are not going to BUFF that out after sanding , you need to re-clear that area OP .

 

[PERFECTIONPLUS]

Im gonna sand down to 3000 with a porter cable 7424xp. Do you think I can remove sand marks with the PC7424xp 3m rubbing comp and a cutting foam ? Or do I need a rotary ?

you are not going to BUFF that out after sanding , you need to re-clear that area OP .
__________________

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Im gonna sand down to 3000 with a porter cable 7424xp.

Do you think I can remove sand marks with the PC7424xp 3m rubbing comp and a cutting foam ? Or do I need a rotary ?

You should be able to easily remove #3000 grit sanding marks using 3M Compound and a Porter Cable 7424XP with a cutting pad. Then remove the DA haze with a less aggressive polish and pad.

you are not going to BUFF that out after sanding , you need to re-clear that area OP .

Just to clarify, I think PERFECTIONPLUS is implying when he uses the word that to mean the solvent pop and not the sanding marks.


Hard to say without being there but I would have to agree. The solvent pop is like tiny tunnels in the paint. Sanding more will just uncover more of the tunnel. If the paint is thick enough it might be possible to sand and "chase" the tunnel down to past where it starts and if you still have clear then polish out.

Chances are better that you can't and if you can that you'll be very close to breaking through the clear layer and exposing the color coat. You'll know right away if this happens.

At this point, you have nothing to lose if you're going to re-clear anyways.