some newbie questions, i need help.

[tunakiller]

okay, so ive been creeping here for years, since around 07. I misspoke the other day. I finally created an account last year. so, I've been doing my own "putter around work" on the family durnango and the like. well, now I have my "baby" a 2010 Mustang GT Premium , UA BLACK, and she needs some help.

I have a pc 7424xp, I've been using the 5 ½ x 7/8 Inch Lake Country Beveled Edge Pads orange, grey and blue, with great success. I have recently switched from XMT swirl removers 4-1 and have taken up the mantle on Meg 105 and Meg205 and i'm sold! the cut on 105 is amazing. much less time required for astonishing results. however, i'm stuck. so, my questions follow:

1. am I crazy to think I can remove every scratch/swirl, (that isn't so deep it requires sanding, i.e. the catch your fingernail test)?

2. dust! it consumes my car, it's very annoying. is the proper procedure to wife the dust from the next section before proceeding with a cobra microfiber towel, or do you just go over it? I've been wiping. is this from improper use of my tool/abrasives? I clean my pads on the fly, after every 2-3 sections, not panels. I prime my pads and ensure 100 percent of the pad has product on it before I start and let it set for a few minutes. after the pad has been primed, then I add 3 dime size spots and begin. I have some DP pad cleaner, and I use it regularly for my pads, in accordance with the instructions. I was my pad with standard laundry soap, no bleach, fabric softener etc,

3. I personally think i'm doing something wrong after completion. allow me to go in detail.
3.a I wash my car properly, using BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo. I rinse and wash, using the 2 bucket method and a grit guard in each. I change my rinse water often. I use long soft strokes with my Aussie Merino Wool Wash Mitt. I wash top to bottom. I do not use solid stream when rinsing, I use a gentle deluge and let it sheet off. I dry using a California jelly blade and clean up with a cobra guzzler.
3.b As Needed: in this case what i'm doing now. I clay my car with Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay Bar. I keep my clay and car properly lubed with speed lube. remove with cobra microfiber towel.
3. c after proper preparation (taping off my car, designating panels and subdividing into sections) and one last visual inspection for an last minute contamination, begin the swirl removal process. as of today, my new product of choice is Meg 105 and 205.
3.d my arm speed is slow, an inch every 1-2 seconds, proper downward pressure on my DA and attention to detail. 5-6 passes per section, alternating from side to side and top to bottom overlapping passes. following what I have read, I do not wipe the 105 residue off and switch form LC orange cutting pad to LC grey pad, and repeat the process. I wipe the residue off with cobra mf towel and proceed to M205 and again, following instructions I have read, set my DA to 4.5 or 5 and make a 20-30 second pass on the entire section and remove residue.

Now, after that step is complete I inspect what I expect. my results are 98 percent to my satisfaction. my only complaint/question is that there will be, and not always, a faint scratch on my car. this is what poses my question: am I nuts to believe I can remove every single scratch/swirl on my car?

Moving forward: once the 205 has been removed, I follow with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0following the directions on the bottle.
From there, I put a final coat of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze following the directions of the label and using "such small amounts" that "2.oz" should do my entire Mustang.

now: problem: after letting the glaze "harden or set" overnight, at least eight hours, it still doesn't look "wet" to me. I'll post some pics shortly, and I don't have a DLSR camera so my pics are not the highest quality.

My real beef is that after all this $$$ for quality products and my time and effort, if I rub my bare arm against the paint, the hairs on my arm, and I'm not particularly hairy, are enough to leave marks on my paint! why, why, why does this happen???
what am I doing wrong? I am no Mike Phillips but I am intelligent and educated, certainly enough to follow directions and read and watch hours upon hours of videos.
what am I doing wrong in my technique? am I missing a simple step? why does this happen? I am super :hungry: for answers, guidance and advise.
Pics:

 

[Docpeanut]

That hood looks great, unfortunately I don't have anything else to contribute

 

[tunakiller]

That hood looks great, unfortunately I don't have anything else to contribute

thanks Doc!

 

[jamesboyy]

Nice Mustang she looks beauiful as for advice would not use a jelly blade it can drag dirt if any is left on the car and scratch the paint therefore i would try a electric leaf blower or a shop vac with a blower feature with a plush microfiber for my drying process

 

[hernandez.art13]

+1 on the jelly blade. If I were you I would check out a coating. I am only familiar with Opti Coat, but I am very happy with the results I achieved with it. As far as the scratches go that I cannot answer. Good luck however.

 

[StangFan25]

You only need to start one thread. You've received replies in the other thread you started with the exact same post. Good luck!

 

[tunakiller]

i find it hard to believe that with all the knowledge on here, no one:
A. wants to help
B. knows what my problems are.
super surprised.......
rob

thanks for the help from those that did help.

 

[Loser]

i find it hard to believe that with all the knowledge on here, no one:
A. wants to help
B. knows what my problems are.
super surprised.......
rob

thanks for the help from those that did help.

C. Haven't read this post yet because it's 13 hours old

 

[tunakiller]

C. Haven't read this post yet because it's 13 hours old

I know, I know and I apologize to everyone.
I have limited time and want to get my car done properly.
so again, sorry for being "snippy", if you get my drift.

thanks
rob

 

[Evan.J]

okay, so ive been creeping here for years, since around 07. I misspoke the other day. I finally created an account last year. so, I've been doing my own "putter around work" on the family durnango and the like. well, now I have my "baby" a 2010 Mustang GT Premium , UA BLACK, and she needs some help.

Happy to have you here as a member rops:

I have a pc 7424xp, I've been using the 5 ½ x 7/8 Inch Lake Country Beveled Edge Pads orange, grey and blue, with great success. I have recently switched from XMT swirl removers 4-1 and have taken up the mantle on Meg 105 and Meg205 and i'm sold! the cut on 105 is amazing. much less time required for astonishing results. however, i'm stuck. so, my questions follow:

Great combo you have with the Meguiars twins!

1. am I crazy to think I can remove every scratch/swirl, (that isn't so deep it requires sanding, i.e. the catch your fingernail test)?

No because you most certainly can. How deep they go will greatly depend on how they can be removed.

2. dust! it consumes my car, it's very annoying. is the proper procedure to wife the dust from the next section before proceeding with a cobra microfiber towel, or do you just go over it? QUOTE]
Using M105 can be dusty at times. I do give each panel a wipe down prior to doing any work to ensure the working area is nice and clean. You want to remove the scratches and not put any in with dirt being caught on the surface of the pad.

I've been wiping. is this from improper use of my tool/abrasives? I clean my pads on the fly, after every 2-3 sections, not panels.

M105 is dusty. You can add a drop or two of m205 to the 105 which will help cut down on the dust and make the buffing cycle a bit longer.

I prime my pads and ensure 100 percent of the pad has product on it before I start and let it set for a few minutes. after the pad has been primed, then I add 3 dime size spots and begin.

Thats the proper way to prime your pad rops:

I have some DP pad cleaner, and I use it regularly for my pads, in accordance with the instructions. I was my pad with standard laundry soap, no bleach, fabric softener etc,

When it comes to pads how often are you changing them? After buffing you tend to get a lot of spent product and clearcoat build up on the fance and the edge of the pad and this will reduce the effect of the pad and increase the amount of dust that will come off the pad.

3. I personally think i'm doing something wrong after completion. allow me to go in detail.

3.a I wash my car properly, using BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo. I rinse and wash, using the 2 bucket method and a grit guard in each. I change my rinse water often. I use long soft strokes with my Aussie Merino Wool Wash Mitt. I wash top to bottom. I do not use solid stream when rinsing, I use a gentle deluge and let it sheet off. I dry using a California jelly blade and clean up with a cobra guzzler.

Do away with the jelly blade. You can end up getting dirt dust and who knows what else trapped against the blade and the surface of the paint and cuase scratches.

3.b As Needed: in this case what i'm doing now. I clay my car with Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay Bar. I keep my clay and car properly lubed with speed lube. remove with cobra microfiber towel.

This all sounds good to me. How often would you say you clay and are you doing any polishing after you clay the paint?

3. c after proper preparation (taping off my car, designating panels and subdividing into sections) and one last visual inspection for an last minute contamination, begin the swirl removal process. as of today, my new product of choice is Meg 105 and 205

ok
.

3.d my arm speed is slow, an inch every 1-2 seconds, proper downward pressure on my DA and attention to detail. 5-6 passes per section, alternating from side to side and top to bottom overlapping passes. following what I have read, I do not wipe the 105 residue off and switch form LC orange cutting pad to LC grey pad, and repeat the process. I wipe the residue off with cobra mf towel and proceed to M205 and again, following instructions I have read, set my DA to 4.5 or 5 and make a 20-30 second pass on the entire section and remove residue.

I think what I have outlined in bold is your main issue when it comes to the dust. M105 has a very short buff cycle since it does not contain as much oils like M205. I think you are working way past the buff cycle causing M105 to dry up. I dont think you need to switch pads like you are doing.

Now, after that step is complete I inspect what I expect. my results are 98 percent to my satisfaction. my only complaint/question is that there will be, and not always, a faint scratch on my car. this is what poses my question: am I nuts to believe I can remove every single scratch/swirl on my car?

Getting 100% correctionis something we all want but in reality its not always the case. Since its a 2010 im assuming this is the first time it has ever been polished and some of those scratches just maybe too deep to completely remove. Remember that clear coat is about as thick as a sticky note so not much to work with. Sometimes we have to accept that there will be a few that just cant be removed.

Moving forward: once the 205 has been removed, I follow with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0following the directions on the bottle.
From there, I put a final coat of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze following the directions of the label and using "such small amounts" that "2.oz" should do my entire Mustang.

All sounds good to me there

now: problem: after letting the glaze "harden or set" overnight, at least eight hours, it still doesn't look "wet" to me. I'll post some pics shortly, and I don't have a DLSR camera so my pics are not the highest quality.

I havent used Klasse sealant before so I am unable to answer this one for you.

My real beef is that after all this $$$ for quality products and my time and effort, if I rub my bare arm against the paint, the hairs on my arm, and I'm not particularly hairy, are enough to leave marks on my paint! why, why, why does this happen???

You may have soft paint. Soft paint is very very scratches sensitive and some are so bad that we even joke around and say it will scratch if you breathe on it. Some paints are just that and the only think I would suggest is to get a paint coating. These coatings are harder than tradtional clear coats and give you that wet look you desire.

what am I doing wrong? I am no Mike Phillips but I am intelligent and educated, certainly enough to follow directions and read and watch hours upon hours of videos.
what am I doing wrong in my technique? am I missing a simple step? why does this happen? I am super :hungry: for answers, guidance and advise.
Pics:

I hope I helped you out rops:

 

[Desertnate]

Moving forward: once the 205 has been removed, I follow with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0following the directions on the bottle.
From there, I put a final coat of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze following the directions of the label and using "such small amounts" that "2.oz" should do my entire Mustang.

now: problem: after letting the glaze "harden or set" overnight, at least eight hours, it still doesn't look "wet" to me. I'll post some pics shortly, and I don't have a DLSR camera so my pics are not the highest quality.

I didn't see anything terribly wrong with your other steps, but may be able to comment on the portion I quoted.

1) If there are any oils in the Wolfgang, they may be keeping the Klasse for bonding properly to the paint. Klasse SG is good stuff, but it needs a perfectly clean surface to bond with like many sealants. That is why they recommend using their AIO product first to clean everything up.

2) 2oz is WAY too much SG for a single application. You should be putting it on so thin you can bearly see it. I have a 16.9 oz bottle that has lasted me almost 9 years. That's doing 1~2 cars/suv's 2x a year. A little goes a LONG way.

3) Are you letting it sit for 8 hours before buffing it out or are you saying you just don't see very good results 8 hours later? If you are waiting 8 hours before buffing it out, you're waiting too long. I buff it out as soon as I apply it to the whole car.

Klasse SG can be difficult at times. I've found that keeping a bottle of Sonus Spritz (which is rumored to be super thin SG in a spray bottle) handy as a QD to help buff out difficult spots

 

[tunakiller]

I didn't see anything terribly wrong with your other steps, but may be able to comment on the portion I quoted.

1) If there are any oils in the Wolfgang, they may be keeping the Klasse for bonding properly to the paint. Klasse SG is good stuff, but it needs a perfectly clean surface to bond with like many sealants. That is why they recommend using their AIO product first to clean everything up. OK, so no Wolfgang. I don't have and AIO right now, but I do have some Dodo juice pre wax cleaner. should I complete 205 and then wash the car and then Dodo and then Klasse?

2) 2oz is WAY too much SG for a single application. You should be putting it on so thin you can bearly see it. I have a 16.9 oz bottle that has lasted me almost 9 years. That's doing 1~2 cars/suv's 2x a year. A little goes a LONG way. Roger, I can use way way way less. thanks for that.

3) Are you letting it sit for 8 hours before buffing it out or are you saying you just don't see very good results 8 hours later? If you are waiting 8 hours before buffing it out, you're waiting too long. I buff it out as soon as I apply it to the whole car.
time out. firstly, I read to let is sit eight hours before another coat. secondly, I had no idea I was supposed to buff it out! dang it! I'll let it dry and then buff. .

Klasse SG can be difficult at times. I've found that keeping a bottle of Sonus Spritz (which is rumored to be super thin SG in a spray bottle) handy as a QD to help buff out difficult spots

so, in conclusion to where i'm at this second. should I use 205 or Dodo and go over the whole car, then skip the Wolfgang and then hit it with the Klasse, let it dry and then buff it?

thank you for your help!
regards,
rob

 

[tunakiller]

Happy to have you here as a member rops:



Great combo you have with the Meguiars twins!


No because you most certainly can. How deep they go will greatly depend on how they can be removed.

2. dust! it consumes my car, it's very annoying. is the proper procedure to wife the dust from the next section before proceeding with a cobra microfiber towel, or do you just go over it? QUOTE]
Using M105 can be dusty at times. I do give each panel a wipe down prior to doing any work to ensure the working area is nice and clean. You want to remove the scratches and not put any in with dirt being caught on the surface of the pad.


M105 is dusty. You can add a drop or two of m205 to the 105 which will help cut down on the dust and make the buffing cycle a bit longer.


Thats the proper way to prime your pad rops:
When it comes to pads how often are you changing them? After buffing you tend to get a lot of spent product and clearcoat build up on the fance and the edge of the pad and this will reduce the effect of the pad and increase the amount of dust that will come off the pad.


Do away with the jelly blade. You can end up getting dirt dust and who knows what else trapped against the blade and the surface of the paint and cuase scratches.


This all sounds good to me. How often would you say you clay and are you doing any polishing after you clay the paint?


ok
.

I think what I have outlined in bold is your main issue when it comes to the dust. M105 has a very short buff cycle since it does not contain as much oils like M205. I think you are working way past the buff cycle causing M105 to dry up. I dont think you need to switch pads like you are doing.

Getting 100% correctionis something we all want but in reality its not always the case. Since its a 2010 im assuming this is the first time it has ever been polished and some of those scratches just maybe too deep to completely remove. Remember that clear coat is about as thick as a sticky note so not much to work with. Sometimes we have to accept that there will be a few that just cant be removed.

All sounds good to me there



I havent used Klasse sealant before so I am unable to answer this one for you.




You may have soft paint. Soft paint is very very scratches sensitive and some are so bad that we even joke around and say it will scratch if you breathe on it. Some paints are just that and the only think I would suggest is to get a paint coating. These coatings are harder than tradtional clear coats and give you that wet look you desire.



I hope I helped you out rops:

evan, thank you very much for your help. there were things I didn't know. For sure
so, how do I find out it my 2010 Mustang has soft paint?
I've done away with the jelly blade.
as far a the car, I've had it since late August, and this is the first time it's seen clay or a DA. i'm an avid reader, problem is I read so much here, I cant determine the best Course of Action. now I have no intention of claying the car each time, I understand the purpose of clay and it's abrasive properties. I try very hard to keep my car clean. I wash weekly as described in my initial post.
so, consequently, at what junction does the paint coat go on?
thanks again!
rob

 

[Evan.J]

evan, thank you very much for your help. there were things I didn't know. For sure

Not a problem Rob rops:

so, how do I find out it my 2010 Mustang has soft paint?

Usually its with a test spot or how easily you pain scratches and judging from everything you have stated I am going to say you have soft paint.

I've done away with the jelly blade.

Good move :dblthumb2:

As far a the car, I've had it since late August, and this is the first time it's seen clay or a DA. I'm an avid reader, problem is I read so much here, I cant determine the best Course of Action. now I have no intention of claying the car each time, I understand the purpose of clay and it's abrasive properties. I try very hard to keep my car clean. I wash weekly as described in my initial post.
so, consequently, at what junction does the paint coat go on?
thanks again!
rob

You would use a coating like Opti-coat, Cquartz, DP coatings, or Pinnacle Black Label instead of a wax or sealant. These coatings last anywhere from 3-5 years. So what you would do is polish out your paint then remove any polishing oils using either a prep polish or Carpro Eraser. You need to the surface to be surgically clean in order to have proper bonding with the clear coat. Once you do that you apply the coating as per the manufacturer. There are plenty of videos and how-to's for each.

 

[Desertnate]

so, in conclusion to where i'm at this second. should I use 205 or Dodo and go over the whole car, then skip the Wolfgang and then hit it with the Klasse, let it dry and then buff it?

thank you for your help!
regards,
rob

You can still use the Wolfgang as that is a fine finishing polish that should make the surface really shiny. It has a great reputation here for amazing results. I've not used the product before, but it might not be a bad idea to hit the car with the paint cleaner after the Wolfgang just to make sure there isn't anything left behind that might keep the Klasse from bonding.

To Klasse SG is not a wipe-on-walk-away product. I apply it to the whole vehicle and then buff it out. The longer it sits the harder it will be to buff out. The 8 hours you reference is the cure time before you can hit it with another coat or put a wax on top.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Just to comment...

I do my best to chime in on as many threads as possible but yesterday we were filming all day and today I'm setting up for my Saturday/Sunday boot camp class.


Thank you to everyone else that's chimed in to help out...


Back to work...


p.s.

I merged your two duplicate threads into one thread. It's best to just start a single thread.

 

[swanicyouth]

A different perspective is: your using M105 which is a professional use product with a short work time - and your a noob. So, your probably using too much polish to "keep it wet", making it dust like crazy. You can try mixing baby oil or this or that with it, or just get a more user friendly compound. I think that will solve your dust issue.

 

[CM8 6MT]

A different perspective is: your using M105 which is a professional use product with a short work time - and your a noob. So, your probably using too much polish to "keep it wet", making it dust like crazy. You can try mixing baby oil or this or that with it, or just get a more user friendly compound. I think that will solve your dust issue.

I agree, FG400 would be a better alternative.

 

[hernandez.art13]

I agree, FG400 would be a better alternative.

+ 1

 

[Desertnate]

Meguiars Ultimate Compound is another great newb product if that much correction is needed.