Someone Gave Me a Chamberlain Waxmaster 900

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Shredmonster

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I know its old but it is dual action. I have a black Jeep daily driver. Just simply want to polish before winter.

I am wondering what polishing pads would be recommended. It is a 9" so I assume I would get the pads in 9" size.

Then would you use wool, microfiber etc ..?
 
Just looked it up and it's a bonnet style pad. It's exactly what the name implies, a waxer. It does not have enough power to do correction work. If you don't mind swirls in your paint then this machine might work for you.
 
Obviously am a newbie at this. So I have a couple questions. The above post implies that correction work needs to be done prior to winter polishing (such as using clay ). Am I understanding this correctly ?
Secondly I take it if correction work is not done polishing will result in swirls ?
 
Shredmonster said:
Obviously am a newbie at this. So I have a couple questions. The above post implies that correction work needs to be done prior to winter polishing (such as using clay ). Am I understanding this correctly ? Secondly I take it if correction work is not done polishing will result in swirls ?
Click to expand...

Correction work doesn't need to be done, but the final results will likely be better. It really depends on what your goals are for your jeep. Typically you'll want to wash & dry first, then clay (if needed, do the baggie test), then compound/polish, then clean paint to remove any polish residue, then seal/coat/wax. If you use your buffer (or even hand polish) without removing the contaminants it's possible that your buffer will pick up these particles and then scratch the paint as you use it.

You can eliminate a step by using a cleaner wax/sealant, also referred to as an all-in-one (AIO). This will combine the polish step with the seal/wax step. The product you choose should be based on the condition of your paint and what you want the finished results to be. If you have a lot of shallow swirls, an AIO with a mild abrasive would be the way to go. If you have deeper swirls to correct, you'd go with an AIO with more abrasive. Mike Phillips has a ton of very informative articles and videos that can guide you as to what products might work for you as well as how-to's.
 
Technically, you can do correction work with a waxer like that. But only depending on the paint. My very first attempt at detailing (about 20 years ago) was on a late 80s Mustang with single stage paint. Having no clue what I was doing, I bought one of those waxers and a MF bonnet and went at it. The paint was extremely oxidized so it was easy to see some results. I have to admit it turned out pretty good. Good enough to make me think I knew what I was doing and kept at detailing, at least.

But single stage paint is very different from what your Jeep likely has. I really have no idea what results you'd get on a clearcoat system. Probably some improvement, but not much chance you'll get all the swirls out.
 
Thanks guys. Very helpful. I will look each one of these steps up and proceed accordingly. Paint is in awesome shape as I use the 2 bucket method and really good products. I wash once a week.

Only swirls I see are some very mild ones on the hood. None on the sides or roof. A few in the back but nothing deep anywhere on the vehicle as I take really good care of it even though it is a DD.

Clay is the only step that makes me nervous as I have never done it before.
 
Shredmonster said:
Obviously am a newbie at this. So I have a couple questions. The above post implies that correction work needs to be done prior to winter polishing (such as using clay ). Am I understanding this correctly ? First of all to be on the same page, polishing means correcting the paint with an abrasive and waxing/sealants/coating are called "last step process or product/protectant" (LSP)You can clay and LSP, but the swirls will still be there.
Secondly I take it if correction work is not done polishing will result in swirls ?
Click to expand...
If you don't polish (correct), yes the swirls will still be there. Your LSP will not cause more swirling, but claying may cause more marring.

If your after a Auto Geek finish, get a good dual action buffer (Griot6) some good polish, a lot of work and stand back and admire your work.
 
Just to chime in...


I used my Chamberlain last week when I tested out the new Meguair's D166. Here's the link,

Review: Meguiar's D166 Ultra Polishing Wax by Mike Phillips


Chamberlain PolishMaster orbital polisher with microfiber bonnet
Section buffed = driver's side truck bed

Meguiars_D166_036.JPG


Meguiars_D166_037.JPG



Not pictured - I knocked out the tail gate, both sides using the FLEX PE14 and knocked out the front and rear chrome bumper using the FLEX 3401

I didn't do much correction with this new cleaner/wax but I also didn't expect it to. The paint on my truck is pretty hard.


:)
 
Thanks again everyone. Extremely helpful. Now I have some purchasing to do !
 
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