SONAX Perfect Finish - Fine Cut Polish for Rotary Polishers

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SONAX Perfect Finish - Fine Cut Polish for Rotary Polishers

Just to note, SONAX products use great abrasive technology. SONAX Perfect Finish is actually formulated specifically for use with rotary buffers but I have had good luck using it with orbital polishers too...


Last year while filming the second season of Competition Ready, we used SONAX Perfect Finish with Lake Country Gold Foam Jeweling Pads to finish out a custom Camaro --> ROTARY BUFFER ONLY. And no holograms.


Pictures and comments from the 2017 Detail Fest Custom Car Builders Challenge for Competition Ready TV!




1969 Camaro built by the Roadster Shop

Before

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Note the FLEX PE14 rotary polishers with the Lake Country Gold Foam Jewelling Pads

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After

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Good stuff....

SONAX Perfect Finish



:)
 
Have used Perfect Finish with long throws (rupes) and forced rotation (Flex 3401) always with great results...it's a great (albeit a little pricey) product.

If you wander around the Inter-webs (where everything you read MUST TO BE TRUE) you might run into folks who believe it leaves fillers behind, a hotly debated topic at one point but I've never had any issues using under coatings so long as I'm sure to work the product thru it's cycle. Speaking to the Sonax reps and some other well-respected users of it, it's kinda taken on an Urban Legend status regarding the filler aspect with some folks but it's a great product that has never given me any issues and finishes quite well, LSP ready in general.

Certainly not compound-level cut but for average swirl removal with light to somewhat moderate flaws, it's a great one-step....stuff just plain works.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
If you wander around the Inter-webs (where everything you read MUST TO BE TRUE) you might run into folks who believe it leaves fillers behind
Click to expand...


The majority of all the "experts" I read talking about "fillers" are the same people that in their quest for purity have forgotten the entire reason any of us polish anything is to....


Make it look good

(whatever "it" is)



Lubricating oils in a compound or polish, (or even cleaner/wax for that matter), lubricate the surface so the abrasives don't simply scour the finish. In other words, the lubricating oils or "agents" help __> us <-- to create beauty. These same lubricating agents also "fill".


Remove the lubrication and your back to abrasion without lubrication and now we can't take that diamond in the rough and turn it into a glistening gemstone as I like to say...


I get the personality characteristic that some people have where they try to be sure pure and perfect that they're always chasing the perfect product but in the BIG PICTURE, at some point you simply need to polish the car, seal it somehow and then stick a fork in it and call it done.


:laughing:
 
I so need to use this product more. I have a bottle and really don't use it as much. Mike...what speeds were you using in with the rotary with the LC pads?
 
I’ve used probably a gallon of perfect finish, cut max, and 04-06 at one of the paint shops I do work for. All work well. Perfect Finish is real good on a rotary. Leaves a real good finish for a final sealer with a DA. I still like other products though. Clear Cut is awesome! And I still love Megs 105 and 205. Be open to trying other products. Lots out there that are great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Does Sonax perfect finish leave any protection behind? If not can you put your favorite sealant over it?
Thanks
 
Pats300zx said:
Mike...what speeds were you using in with the rotary with the LC pads?
Click to expand...


Low RPMs. On the FLEX PE14 on the low setting locked, which is 600 RPM and if you want to feather the trigger 400 to 500 RPM.

In my opinion and experience, jeweling is a LOW speed operation, not a high speed operation like I see most RB guys stating.


:)
 
Just got a new (to me) Porsche 911.. it has some light surface scratches on the roof and on some of the peaks of the curvy parts near the headlights. I tried M105 with no luck removing these scratches.. I'm going to try the Sonax Perfect Finish with a microfiber pad.. my question is after this step, which product have you guys had the most success with after? I was thinking a glaze to fill in any remaining swirls or light scratching would look great. Any advice? My car is metallic grey for reference, want something to really make the metallic stand out.
 
Pure745 said:
Just got a new (to me) Porsche 911.. it has some light surface scratches on the roof and on some of the peaks of the curvy parts near the headlights. I tried M105 with no luck removing these scratches.. I'm going to try the Sonax Perfect Finish with a microfiber pad.. my question is after this step, which product have you guys had the most success with after? I was thinking a glaze to fill in any remaining swirls or light scratching would look great. Any advice? My car is metallic grey for reference, want something to really make the metallic stand out.
Click to expand...

What pads did you use with m105?

Don't expect that Perfect Finish gives you a higher cut than m105. If you had trouble with getting the swirls and scratches. I would look into Sonax Cutmax which is their compound. And it seems you have a very hard clearcoat or very deep defects. A mf cutting pad or LC purple wool pad is an aggressive combo with Cutmax on a DA. You would get a great cut with those pads and the m105 too.

Perfect Finish is a fine polish. So if you would use it with a mf cutting pad and get some micro marring from the combo. Finish it off with a light cut foam polishing pad or a soft finishing foam pad and PF. And you will get an awesome finish that don't need a glaze. Just chose your favorite LSP on the great finish you will get. Work it through with enough passes so it's breaks down properly. 4-6 passes per sections with normal armspeed and speed on the DA and you see that the PF clears up.
 
SWETM said:
What pads did you use with m105?

Don't expect that Perfect Finish gives you a higher cut than m105. If you had trouble with getting the swirls and scratches. I would look into Sonax Cutmax which is their compound. And it seems you have a very hard clearcoat or very deep defects. A mf cutting pad or LC purple wool pad is an aggressive combo with Cutmax on a DA. You would get a great cut with those pads and the m105 too.

Perfect Finish is a fine polish. So if you would use it with a mf cutting pad and get some micro marring from the combo. Finish it off with a light cut foam polishing pad or a soft finishing foam pad and PF. And you will get an awesome finish that don't need a glaze. Just chose your favorite LSP on the great finish you will get. Work it through with enough passes so it's breaks down properly. 4-6 passes per sections with normal armspeed and speed on the DA and you see that the PF clears up.
Click to expand...

Used the Lake Country Yellow cutting pad. Thinking of the PF with MF pad next. My car is a Porsche 911, it's Agate Grey (a darker metallic grey) - It's at the dealer right now getting something repaired otherwise I could post pics of the scratches I'm talking about. They are only noticeable to me or someone who would notice, to the average person, not visible, so not deep enough to get under the clear coat. I'll have the car back mid week and I can post some pictures.

Which LSP have you been using? I'm looking for something that will really look good on a metallic grey car.
 
Last summer I had Ultima Paint Guard Plus and used different QD as toppers. Sonax BSD was one of them and the water behavior from this was very coating like. Over the winter months I used Gyeon Wet Coat which made it very simple to ad a new coat of it. From spring and till now I have used a topper based on Si+ Monokisel which I have been really satisfied with. Not sold on AGO though.

I have at home waiting to be applyied Polish Angel esclate lotion and Master Sealant combo. Just needs a little polish to get the snow marks from wiped off the car. It's a law here in Sweden to get all of the snow off the car before driving it. It's like light wash indused swirls. The Kia cee'd SW I have is silver metallic paint. And like the little more warmer look the LSP can get me. Sonax BSD and Wet Coat gave a little more sharper look. And the Ultima PGP and the topper gave a little more warmer look like a carnuaba wax. That's why I got with Polish Angel Master Sealant which gives that look but with a longer longevity. Then when I feel a change is needed I will use different toppers on it. Also have Polish Angel High Gloss that will be the first topper to be applyied down the road.

Do you have any thoughts about what LSP you are going with?
 
SWETM said:
Last summer I had Ultima Paint Guard Plus and used different QD as toppers. Sonax BSD was one of them and the water behavior from this was very coating like. Over the winter months I used Gyeon Wet Coat which made it very simple to ad a new coat of it. From spring and till now I have used a topper based on Si+ Monokisel which I have been really satisfied with. Not sold on AGO though.

I have at home waiting to be applyied Polish Angel esclate lotion and Master Sealant combo. Just needs a little polish to get the snow marks from wiped off the car. It's a law here in Sweden to get all of the snow off the car before driving it. It's like light wash indused swirls. The Kia cee'd SW I have is silver metallic paint. And like the little more warmer look the LSP can get me. Sonax BSD and Wet Coat gave a little more sharper look. And the Ultima PGP and the topper gave a little more warmer look like a carnuaba wax. That's why I got with Polish Angel Master Sealant which gives that look but with a longer longevity. Then when I feel a change is needed I will use different toppers on it. Also have Polish Angel High Gloss that will be the first topper to be applyied down the road.

Do you have any thoughts about what LSP you are going with?
Click to expand...

Ugh, my mistake I was using the M205 with yellow foam cutting pad not the 105!

My plan was to use the Sonax PF with microfiber pad, Adams Glaze, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant, and then Wolfgang Estate Carnuba.

I was previously using Chemical Guys stuff (bought into the marketing) but on my new car, I want much better results.
 
Pure745 said:
Just got a new (to me) Porsche 911.. it has some light surface scratches on the roof and on some of the peaks of the curvy parts near the headlights.


I tried M105 with no luck removing these scratches..
Click to expand...


M105 is a VERY capable compound. I can remember using the beta version when it was first removed, so I have a tick of experience with it.


Before going down the rabbit hole of why it's not working on Porsche...



You left out some vital info


What tool did you use?

What pad?


HUGE FACTORS besides the abrasive technology.


;)
 
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