Speed recommendations Makita PO6000C or 5000C using 3M Polish and Pads

S

Submariner

New member
Joined
Aug 27, 2018
Messages
124
Reaction score
0
As a newbie, I was hoping for some advice using 2 of the 3M Products.
my difficulty is translating their recomended speeds on a Rotary to the speed on My Makita PO6000C 6” pads.

1. The 3M Perfect it III Ultra Fine Plus Polish - Yellow and 3M Yellow Pad
3M Data Sheet says 1,500 to 2,000 rpm but on a Rotary

2. The 3M Perfect it III Ultrafina SE Polish - Blue and 3M Blue Pad
3M Data sheet say 1,400 to 2,000 RPM but thats on a Rotary. One of their training Vids says 1,200 to 1,800

Any recomendations for Speed settings with the following:-

1. Using a DA polisher and Ultra Fine Plus Polish
A] free spinning DA and B] Orbital and Forced Rotation

2. Using a DA polisher and Ultrafina SE Polish
A] free spinning DA and B] Orbital and Forced Rotation
 
Farmallluvr said:
those compounds are meant for rotary only and I am pretty sure using them with a high speed random orbital will leave your finish quite hazy

Maybe some Menzerna 3n1 or their polishung system,,I think you are in the UK ?,,not sure whats all available to you there.
read this;3M™ Perfect-It™ Rubbing Compound | 3M United States
Click to expand...

Oops. Looks like I wasted a lot of money , if you are right?
Not what I was told.
May I ask who told you they were not for DAs?
 
the instructions say so,,on the bottle and the website,,I tried it and got a buttload of micro marring a clogged pad but thats not say someone here didn't figure out a way to do it,I just haven't.perhaps MF cutting pads of wool for the DA

I have run the rotary for 25+ years for a living so I have plenty of experience with one,,,the DA polishers not so much but the last couple of months I have made leaps and bounds using one and I'm figuring it out.

I always find it easier to follow the manufacturers instructions

may I ask who told you that you could?,,link?
 
pardon my grammar errors above,,I have 2 large dogs wiggling around on my lap ,,lol
 
I was told the same thing. We use Perfect It medium and light gelcoat and I've only ever applied it with a rotary per the instructions I was given.
 
Farmallluvr said:
the instructions say so,,on the bottle and the website,,I tried it and got a buttload of micro marring a clogged pad but thats not say someone here didn't figure out a way to do it,I just haven't.perhaps MF cutting pads of wool for the DA

I have run the rotary for 25+ years for a living so I have plenty of experience with one,,,the DA polishers not so much but the last couple of months I have made leaps and bounds using one and I'm figuring it out.

I always find it easier to follow the manufacturers instructions

may I ask who told you that you could?,,link?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info ... real world experience sure trumps people selling it in my opinion.
Did you use the 3M blue pad with it?
And was it a forced DA , only asked as I can definitely select that mode.

3M UK told me there would be no Difference DA or Rotary.
I also asked him was this Ultrafina SE and the Yellow Ultra Fine Plus polish Diminishing Abraisives and he said they were not!
I specifically asked him this as I wanted to know if they needed the periferal speed of a rotary to break down the polish.

Sadly my bottle despite being bought from Amazon UK came with German writing on it!

Well naffed off as I also bought 4 blue Ultrafina pads to go with it.

Obviously I beleive you, but when you say you got a clogged pad. I was told this hardly had any abraisive in it ( which is what I wanted) so what was clogging the pad ... I assume paint residue.

Last thing I want is a load of micro marring!!

The target is my Mercedes S Class, which people say has hard paint. Can you remember was your car hard or soft paint.
 
Does it specifically say on the bottle not suitable for DA Polishers or does it just specify Rotary polishers.

The data sheet just says, use with an air or electric buffer polishing machine at 1,400 to 2,000 rpm.

Admittedly there are no DAs running at 1,400 ... but I assumed the Orbit side compensated for that!
 
I have used the 3M polishes a lot thru my life. They were indeed designed for rotary use in body shops. That being said, they do work well with a forced rotation machines. They also work with a Freespinning DA. The key is to use firm downward pressure of the first few passes to engage and break down the abrasives.
 
Amazon product features just say
“Designed for use with machine polishers”

Love to see a photo of the bottle instructions front and back in English.

Never thought I would be pleased my back Operation took so long to mend ... without that delay I could have a lovely 2’ x 2’ marred up patch on my Mercedes!
 
Dr Oldz said:
I have used the 3M polishes a lot thru my life. They were indeed designed for rotary use in body shops. That being said, they do work well with a forced rotation machines. They also work with a Freespinning DA. The key is to use firm downward pressure of the first few passes to engage and break down the abrasives.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that encouraging info Jim.
I am surprised the Ultrafina SE needs breaking down , as it was pretty much sold to me as one of the gentlest finest , least abraisive final finish polishes one could buy!
 
Submariner said:
Thanks for that encouraging info Jim.
I am surprised the Ultrafina SE needs breaking down , as it was pretty much sold to me as one of the gentlest finest , least abraisive final finish polishes one could buy!
Click to expand...

It is indeed. I love Ultrafina. I buy it by the gallon. You still need some pressure the first few passes to really reveal its magic. I do use it for jeweling as it really has no correction abilities FYI.
 
Dr Oldz said:
I have used the 3M polishes a lot thru my life. They were indeed designed for rotary use in body shops. That being said, they do work well with a forced rotation machines. They also work with a Freespinning DA. The key is to use firm downward pressure of the first few passes to engage and break down the abrasives.
Click to expand...

what pad do you use?,,pad seems to be more key than machine or product,,I tried a white pad that I have,not sure of the make but it's white and fairly stiff and it clogged up bad..

I have used it with some success with a soft blak foam to remove some medium scratches and I always try this stuff out on dark cars to see,,it just seems everytime I tried to use a heavier cut pad (foam) I end up with a lot of marring.
 
Dr Oldz said:
It is indeed. I love Ultrafina. I buy it by the gallon. You still need some pressure the first few passes to really reveal its magic. I do use it for jeweling as it really has no correction abilities FYI.
Click to expand...

If by Jewelling you mean just making the the top surface super sparkly shiny. Thats exactly what I want it for.
I dont really have many swirl marks, and could happily live with those to preserve my clearcoat depth.

Would you say I should run my Makita in Forced rotation mode?
There are 5 rpm forced speeds
1. 180 rpm. 1600. OPM
2. 290 rpm. 2500. OPM
3. 430 rpm 3700 OPM
4. 620 rpm 5300 OPM
5. 780 rpm. 6800 OPM

Which setting would be best?

3M said to apply enough pressure to compress the waffle parts at first.
Is this enough to break it down? And then just use the machines 2.8kg weight

Will I get a good results using the 3M Ultrafina Blue Pad see photo.

Any advice most welcome, as I have 2 liters of Ultrafina SE and 4 pads ... circa £120 worth
 
Definitely use forced rotation mode. The Makita is useless in free spinning mode. Those pads are rotary pads but may work on the forced rotation. I would suggest a flat pads like LC Hybrid Force or similar. Their advice on compressing the waffle part is spot on at least when using the rotary. I would suggest starting at speed 4 with some downward pressure then after about 2-3 passes drop the speed down a notch and use only the machine weight.

Your going have to do some testing and tweaking when u get started to see what gives you the best results.

Hope that helps u a bit.
 
Farmallluvr said:
what pad do you use?,,pad seems to be more key than machine or product,,I tried a white pad that I have,not sure of the make but it's white and fairly stiff and it clogged up bad..

I have used it with some success with a soft blak foam to remove some medium scratches and I always try this stuff out on dark cars to see,,it just seems everytime I tried to use a heavier cut pad (foam) I end up with a lot of marring.
Click to expand...

Can’t say I use any specific pad. You have to adjust to the job. I’m not sure what 3M product your talking about specifically. A heavier cut pad is going to mar in general. If your clogging up a foam pad there is 2 issues. 1. Using too much product 2 not using(or cleaning on The fly) clean pads.

Just to note: while I like ultrafina and use it often, the rest of the 3M polishes I really don’t use as I feel there are better options out there. I’m just trying to help the OP out with what he has.
 
I have to apologize,,I misread the products right from the start,,I didn't realize it was ultra fine polish,for some reason I was thinking Perfect 2 39060 cutting compound,,sometimes I'm such an idiot.

but it has given me some new things to try :)
 
Dr Oldz said:
Definitely use forced rotation mode. The Makita is useless in free spinning mode. Those pads are rotary pads but may work on the forced rotation. I would suggest a flat pads like LC Hybrid Force or similar. Their advice on compressing the waffle part is spot on at least when using the rotary. I would suggest starting at speed 4 with some downward pressure then after about 2-3 passes drop the speed down a notch and use only the machine weight.

Your going have to do some testing and tweaking when u get started to see what gives you the best results.

Hope that helps u a bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim
Most useful, and appreciated
Peter
 
Farmallluvr said:
I have to apologize,,I misread the products right from the start,,I didn't realize it was ultra fine polish,for some reason I was thinking Perfect 2 39060 cutting compound,,sometimes I'm such an idiot.

but it has given me some new things to try :)
Click to expand...

In the latest range Perfect it III there is a yellow Extra Fine Plus Polish ... generally their finest to finish on most cars, and then there is this Blue topped Ultrafina SE , that is supposed to be the absolute gentlest normally reserved only for black cars to remove holograms .
Hence my confusion as to how it clogged up a pad and produced such mwful marring.

I really appreciate you clarifying the mix up.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Definitely use forced rotation mode. The Makita is useless in free spinning mode. Those pads are rotary pads but may work on the forced rotation. I would suggest a flat pads like LC Hybrid Force or similar. Their advice on compressing the waffle part is spot on at least when using the rotary. I would suggest starting at speed 4 with some downward pressure then after about 2-3 passes drop the speed down a notch and use only the machine weight.

Your going have to do some testing and tweaking when u get started to see what gives you the best results.

Hope that helps u a bit.
Click to expand...

Jim Many Thanks,
are their any visual signs that the product has broken down properly after these initial passes, such as looking more greasy or going clear?
or does one have to wipe off and check the actual result visually.
I was told by 3M always to keep this polish looking wet and not to polish it dry. Is that also valid to make it work with a DA in Forced rotation mode?

In your experience, if it wasnt worked in enough would it marr the std. factory finish on an S Class Mercedes i.e. make it worse; or just not be able to make it better ?
regards
Peter
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top