Speed setting?

AbileneAutoWerx

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What is the max speed I should run my GG6 with 4" LC Flats? 5 and 6 seem way to much with such a small pad. I know slow with applying wax/sealant. The compound/polish step is what I'm wondering. Thanks guys.
 
I run mine between 3-3.5 using moderate pressure when I'm compounding/polishing. Hope this helps :xyxthumbs:
 
On my gg6 I always use 6, both for compounding and polishing. Since its spins faster and more aggressively with a smaller pad, just use faster arm speed. That's what works with me
 
Speed 6 on any DA with 3" & 4" pads is asking for trouble


- It overheats the Velcro and the pads won't last long

- It increases the chance you will bang into something

-If yoU don't maintain good contact with the paint...pads will Fly!


I choose speed 4


.
 
I run mine between 3-3.5 using moderate pressure when I'm compounding/polishing. Hope this helps :xyxthumbs:

Excellent advice.

As to the other post about running at speed six, OMG, that'l result in blown out pads big time. I hated math and geometry but that being said, the smaller the diameter the faster it rotates so you don't need the higher rpm's.

Case in point, I bought a Flew PE-8 which I never use any more. Turn that bad boy all the way up with a 3" pad and hit a headlight with it and see what happens LOL!! Melt city!!

On my Rupes Mini I will run 5-6 six but keep in mind it's designed for this. It's a dedicated machine. But I will only do that with the Rupes pads. It will eat up all the other guys 3-4" pads on that speed.

The key thing is to remember friction creates heat and heat kills pads and product. You have to experiment and fine the correct balance for each scenario.
 
Speed 6 on any DA with 3" & 4" pads is asking for trouble


- It overheats the Velcro and the pads won't last long

- It increases the chance you will bang into something

-If yoU don't maintain good contact with the paint...pads will Fly!


I choose speed 4


.

:dblthumb2:
 
, the smaller the diameter the faster it rotates so you don't need the higher rpm's. .

The key thing is to remember friction creates heat and heat kills pads and product. You have to experiment and fine the correct balance for each scenario.


The smaller pad is rotating the same speed (RPM) at the center as a larger pad...at the same RPM setting.

The outer edge of the smaller pad is actually moving at a slower SPEED (MPH), than the outer edge of a larger pad.

This is the reason that FLEX set the lowest RPM for the PE8 higher than on the PE14.

This is also one reason that I favor 6 1/2" pads on my FLEX 3401. More speed at the outer edge of the pad, equals, more cut.


You do bring up a point that is often overlooked. When you apply the same amount of downward pressure to a smaller pad; the force is more concentrated. This is what causes the overheating and makes twisting the paint more likely as well.

But, the up side is that any DA with a 3" Megs DAMF and Compound will crush defects.


I also think that many people have difficulty adjusting the amount of polish they apply to smaller pads.

If you use 4 dime sized dots on a 6" pad and think that 2 dime sized dots on a 3" pad is equivalent...it is not.

Based on the surface area of the two pads; the 3" pad only needs 1 dot!

6" pad = 28 sq in

3" pad = 7 sq in





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Excellent advice.


Case in point, I bought a Flew PE-8 which I never use any more. Turn that bad boy all the way up with a 3" pad and hit a headlight with it and see what happens LOL!! Melt city!!

As Stephen Colbert once said..... "Give it to MEEEEEE!"

I'll try my best to use that lil' PE-8. :)

giphy.com/gifs/funny-stephen-colbert-the-report-11t9sYRP19MFd6



As for the reply to use the GG6 wide open with a 4" pad.
OMG MAN... what are you thinking?!?!?! :eek:

FWIW... faster arm speed is completely counterproductive to the 'method' of things. That in and of itself will not negate the insane forces (and pad speed) of running a smaller pad at such speeds.
 
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I run mine at speed 3 most of the time for smaller pads. Occasionally I might bump it up to 3.5 or 4.
 
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