Spiderweb scratches in final polish Help!

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casey86cuda

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Hi Everybody I hope Im doing this right Im old school so this forunm thing is new to me.I have my own restoration shop and I just painted a 3 year frame off 49 chevy 5 window chevy truck well my frist mistake was letting the owner buy the paint&Clear this was frist ppg 2021 clear I have shot normal use debeer.This clear calls for 2 coats so I put 3 on because she olny bought enough for 3 Normal I put 4 on.What the problem Im have is Im getting a spiderweb looking scratches in final buffing stage.Frist time I had this problem, I finish out sanding in 5000 grit trizact Im using 3m perfectit.buffing system, this has me scratching my head please anybody jump in Im lost.Thanks Shawn
 
What tools pads and products are you using for the finishing polish?
 
Welcome to the forum Shawn.

I'd also ask what Evan has asked.

What steps are you taking after the sanding step? Usually spider web looking scratches show up when your finish polishing steps aren't fully removing the marks left behind by a heavy compound and wool pad, but I wouldn't really think any heavy cutting would be necessary after sanding with 5000 grit unless there's sanding scratches still left behind from a more coarse grit paper.

I'm assuming you're finishing with a rotary with a white or light blue 3M foam pad and ultra fine polish...?.. Reduce your working section size and do a few more passes or maybe you're taking too big of a jump from cutting to finishing and need an intermediate polish in between. Feed back please
 
Hi Evan started with wool pad with #1 3m compound then I go to #2 polishing compound with black foam pad the finish out with #3 ulrafine compound with bule pad I have a old snap on buffer I use and I have been doing it with that buffer just feel it does have rpm dial so not sure what rpms I'm runing.The more I read about these new clears they dont like heat also not sure if this matters but my buffer has this sound of like gear grinding it doesnt effect the speed but Im think what if there get very fine metalshaving failing into the pad.I have been wanting to buy new buffer I'm looking st the flex rotary & 3401 or the bigfoot 15.I have 2 paint reps look at it and they said anybody bodyshop that would be good.I know what it should look and Im not production shop I get all my work by word of mouth.I will take some picture tomorrow and post them I guess Im anal about how I want my work to look.Thank you for taking your time to try and help me..
 
Going with an unfamiliar clear coat, maybe you're working with a clear coat that's much harder than what you're used to working with. This could explain why you're experiencing these spiderweb looking scratches.

Happen to have any "Farecla Total" on hand? That would work a little better with a "higher solids" clear coat as it has more non-diminishing abrasives than 3M's offering.
 
First confirm that you don't have any metal shavings coming out of anywhere on your polisher...if you do...STOP!!!

If not...

Try testing a spot by doing a few more section passes with your black pad and #2 polishing compound. Sounds like your just not removing all the sanding marks or wool pad marks in the paint.
 
Well couple things.

1. Sanding wrong (most common). Too much pressure. A finishing polish can remove 5000 grit easily if you sand it correctly. What could most likely go wrong is the paper is not clean and small grits of paper and clear are being ground in as you go.

2. What are you wiping it off with? If it's still soft you can easily be re-swirling the paint you just polished. Especially if you wipe hard.
 
Here are some pictures I took today you can see them good in one picture, Im wipeing resadue off with wizards brand final wype your right about the wipeing on the panel thats not buffed yet leaves swirls fine scratches.I did a small spot started with 2000 grit went to 2500 the 3000 the 5000 I burnt thru it again I feel I didnt put enough clear on.When you say sanding right what does that mean? I thought I was pretty good with my buffing I consider it a art but this is kicking my ass.I put a piece of white paper down and ran my buffer at buffing speed didnt see any shaving so I dont known.I use clean what in spray bottle mybe its how I'm sanding I'm useing meguairs paper I soaked in bucket 20 minutes.
 
Im not doing something right wont let me send pictures sometime I hate technology lol.
 
Looks like there's still some sanding marks from the heavier grits. The sanding marks are not from 5000.

Also, it appears that the pad was dirty. There may have been sandpaper remnants on the paint before compounding, as Dave stated.

After re-sanding, try reducing your work size and working even cleaner. Sounds like you're wiping down properly, just make sure that you're getting all of the sanding residue and removed clear off the paint. I usually do a rinseless wash or a very wet waterless wash after sanding and before compounding.

Are you sanding by hand? Using a block? Make sure you don't go in different directions with different grits.

If you can, try using a 3" interface and 3" sanding discs to sand with, at low speeds. This makes the sanding marks MUCH more uniform and MUCH easier to remove. Especially if you're finishing down to 5000 grit.
 
I'm very familiar with perfectit, best paint correction I've ever used. Like you I use the white wool and foam for the last two steps. Everything you do depends on how much time you spend on the 1st step. Most people wipe between the steps but in my opinion you shouldn't. The more you wipe the more you scratch. Each step the product should be worked in well enough to where you can go to the next without wiping. For the lint and dust, blow it off with a compressor. Once I start the 3 step I don't wipe until I'm taking off the wax. I use a Dewalt around 3000 depending on the panel/condition. 2nd step 2500 last step 2000. You sound pretty experienced though so I'm assuming there's something else going on. Let us know what you find


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Kyle_Elantra said:
Looks like there's still some sanding marks from the heavier grits. The sanding marks are not from 5000.

Also, it appears that the pad was dirty. There may have been sandpaper remnants on the paint before compounding, as Dave stated.

After re-sanding, try reducing your work size and working even cleaner. Sounds like you're wiping down properly, just make sure that you're getting all of the sanding residue and removed clear off the paint. I usually do a rinseless wash or a very wet waterless wash after sanding and before compounding.

Are you sanding by hand? Using a block? Make sure you don't go in different directions with different grits.

If you can, try using a 3" interface and 3" sanding discs to sand with, at low speeds. This makes the sanding marks MUCH more uniform and MUCH easier to remove. Especially if you're finishing down to 5000 grit.
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This^
 
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