Spit Shine
- Thread starter chu
- Start date
can someone fill me in on what spit shining is? i did a search but i was unable to find a good answer. all i could find was people discussing if its worth doing or not, but nothing telling the process. all i understand is that it requires almost freezing quick detail spray or water.
k20z3kid said:
from a previous post....
Well I just did a spit shine to my truck. I had 2 coats of PB's EXwC and 3
coats of Nattys Blue. I just spit shined the 4th coat of Nattys Blue on it.
Well first I will say that I had a bottle of PB S&W with about 1 oz left in the
bottle. I filled the 16oz bottle with water and that 1oz of spray and wipe.
I put it in the fridge for a day or two. This afteroon I put it in the freezer
until it was slushing. I then spritz each panel liberaly with the solution and
wipe NB in a very thin coat. Haze and wipe off with a Cobra Indigo Polishing
cloth. Amazing depth. I will say that when wiping it down I saw some streaks.
I thought maybe I should not have used the Spray and Wipe in the solution.
I wiped it down after with Spray and Wipe after and the streaks came right
out and the shine is really deep and the color is poppin. I would advise anyone who has not to try this. I will even link a thread that Neothin gives
a in depth discription of the procedure of Spit Shining.
What I do is normally chill a mister bottle I have with some qd'er and give a light mist on a panel and then wax, and if I do another layer, the same thing etc. I don't do it for the spit shining, but moreso it seems to lock in slightly more gloss from the qd'er. I chill the bottle enough to where it's somewhat frozen but still has liquid in it to spray.
Could be the placeabo effect but I do it anyway lol
Could be the placeabo effect but I do it anyway lol
Last edited:
budman3
New member
- Mar 3, 2006
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I like to spray a light mist of chilled OCW and then rub in any carnauba wax with my spitshine method. It takes a little extra work but the results are truely amazing, IMO.
Heres why I think that. Below are some pics of my Tacoma ... if memory serves me right, it was AIO, SG, S100 spit shined with OCW.
Sure looks nice and clear flake right:
But check out the gloss! Same truck, same day, same process:
Heres why I think that. Below are some pics of my Tacoma ... if memory serves me right, it was AIO, SG, S100 spit shined with OCW.
Sure looks nice and clear flake right:
But check out the gloss! Same truck, same day, same process:
chu
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- Oct 21, 2006
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- Thread starter
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Ok, I think I'm going to follow Scott's advise and say the hell with it. Thats too much extra work if I was already washing a waxing every 2 weeks. I think its a great idea. But most of us have a few layers of different stuff on our cars anyway.
Thanks everyone for replying!!!:righton:
Thanks everyone for replying!!!:righton:
supercharged
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- Mar 7, 2006
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You can give it a try if you have a lot of free time and energy, but to me it seems too much work.chu said:
TOGWT
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- Dec 4, 2006
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‘Spit Shining’:
Not as lurid as it sounds - spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Carnauba wax to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers. Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it; especially to Concours d’élégance / Car Show entrants
Not as lurid as it sounds - spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Carnauba wax to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers. Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it; especially to Concours d’élégance / Car Show entrants
Bence
New member
- Mar 3, 2006
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Jon, I somehow remember these words... 
So, the more complete description:
My view on the correct methodology of spit shining
Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents (to a certain extent) to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have that high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as they are up to 98% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to *neutralize* the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, other active ingredients, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy pure carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, dried Victoria Waxes are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same (or slightly better), but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.
So, once again: When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you shouldn’t have haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. Beading characteristics is different, jetting is better, and the beads have bigger contact angles. Just do 5 layers with 30 minute breaks, and you'll see what spit shining is about...
When you want to spit shine, I assume that your finish is in great condition - because this method is for reaching another dimension in depth. You can do it either way, but I used to start over a preexisting wax layer.
The goal of the liquid (aka water or QD) is to neutralize the paste's solvents. While a QD can glossify the surface even more, it contains its own solvents and sometimes alcohol. That's why the water is (theoretically) better. Most QDs are up to 95% water, so the difference is not that big.
The same text can be found on
//meguiarsonline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=155325&postcount=4
//autopia.org/forum/646166-post7.html
etc.
Please note that the links are not clickable.
So, the more complete description:
My view on the correct methodology of spit shining
Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents (to a certain extent) to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have that high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as they are up to 98% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to *neutralize* the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, other active ingredients, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy pure carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, dried Victoria Waxes are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same (or slightly better), but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.
So, once again: When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you shouldn’t have haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. Beading characteristics is different, jetting is better, and the beads have bigger contact angles. Just do 5 layers with 30 minute breaks, and you'll see what spit shining is about...
When you want to spit shine, I assume that your finish is in great condition - because this method is for reaching another dimension in depth. You can do it either way, but I used to start over a preexisting wax layer.
The goal of the liquid (aka water or QD) is to neutralize the paste's solvents. While a QD can glossify the surface even more, it contains its own solvents and sometimes alcohol. That's why the water is (theoretically) better. Most QDs are up to 95% water, so the difference is not that big.
The same text can be found on
//meguiarsonline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=155325&postcount=4
//autopia.org/forum/646166-post7.html
etc.
Please note that the links are not clickable.
justin_murphy
New member
- May 7, 2006
- 2,852
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Not something that I will be doing for my customers!
Wow that's some work!
Wow that's some work!
budman3
New member
- Mar 3, 2006
- 1,744
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How long does it take to do a 1/4 spray of OCW or QD on a hood and then rub in a paste wax? It'll take about 15 seconds more per panel. There is minimal time or effort differences and the results are worth it. Have you seen anything like the pics I posted above? Absolute clairity along with wicked gloss? Justin I can see how you wouldn't do this for customers but on personal vehicles when you are striving for an awesome finish- you should atleast try the spit shine method.
Black Diamond
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- Mar 4, 2007
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So what the the cooling of the product accomplish????
klumzypinoy
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- Jan 30, 2007
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Black Diamond said:So what the the cooling of the product accomplish????
I'm guessing it freezes the previous layer. When it's cold, it's hard, and it won't mix with the wax that you're applying. I think that's what's happening. So basically you're making more defined layers?
Black Diamond
New member
- Mar 4, 2007
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Sounds good but I'm still confused about the cooling process.