Spit shining
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poweraid
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- Mar 23, 2011
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I like that . lol unless u down with a cold and have a lot of runoff I don't feel a reg spit shine has enough lube to prevent any marring . but no I don't spit shine . I have lot better products to use on my vehicle than spit. lol . it kinda like would you urinate on u tires and wheels to clean them ? idk I'm just being funny , forgive me .
BobbyG
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- Dec 29, 2009
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Hmmmm, I've never heard of it, tell me more...
lkotsios
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Day after waxing, spritz cold distilled water on surface before waxing and while waxing apply wax very thin. Wax until all wax is gone then wipe all excess water repeat in half hour. Cold water neutralizes solvents in wax allowing nuba to layer. Personally I have never tried it. If you do
various searches on the net there is plenty of info out there.
FUNX650
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Here is one example BobbyG
Sourced from TOGWT's posts on:
forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/concours-and-car-care/633513-optimal-time-between-wax-layers
____________________________________________________
'Spit Shining’(Bull polishing)
[Spit shining is the technique that is used to make shoes shine like mirrors - - and some of those tricks can be applied to putting carnauba on your car's paint] NickT
It’s not as lurid as it sounds, I learned how to spit shine boots in the Royal Air Force (RAF), but for those of you who’ve never done it I’ll briefly describe how to spit shine boots to a mirror finish. You’ll need a can of Kiwi shoe wax, a bag of cotton balls, and some cold water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little more wax and repeat.
Re-moisten the cotton ball as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball, it takes several layers (maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine. It’s obvious that the wax builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to flake.
Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Organic wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is cold distilled water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers.
What you are doing is dissolving the solvents so that it doesn't remove the previous layer. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it
Usually, a wax with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer, so use a Carnauba that is not formulated with a high solvent content (Pinnacle Souverän) A solvent will have the potential to strip subsequent layers, but remember that you are not applying neat solvent to the last layer - but a wax and solvent blend. So it is only a fraction of its original strength and won't strip the wax layer like neat solvent. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness
Using a damp applicator and cold (almost ice) distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle neutralizes any solvents in the newly applied layer; the water should be cold, using ice cold water after applying a wax will harden the wax quicker making the shine deeper and help the new wax adhere to the finish, working until the water/ wax solution disappears.The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray fine mists of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a light Carnauba wax to the paint surface.
Always apply extremely thin layers using a very light pressure when spit shining, Wipe it onto a small work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed, keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the very cold distilled water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.
When you spray very cold water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat.
Allow each subsequent Carnauba waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.
After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal
Use a low-solvent wax (Victoria Concours Wax, Souverän or P21S) Some wax products use an emulsion to keep more liquid without adding solvents which, in high concentrations could remove the underlying wax too rapidly to allow the "melting" together of the wax" strata.
Also:
Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Organic wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is cold distilled water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers.
What you are doing is dissolving the solvents so that it doesn't remove the previous layer. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads.
The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it
Bob
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
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Here is one example BobbyG
Sourced from TOGWT's posts on:
forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/concours-and-car-care/633513-optimal-time-between-wax-layers
____________________________________________________
'Spit Shining’(Bull polishing)
[Spit shining is the technique that is used to make shoes shine like mirrors - - and some of those tricks can be applied to putting carnauba on your car's paint] NickT
It’s not as lurid as it sounds, I learned how to spit shine boots in the Royal Air Force (RAF), but for those of you who’ve never done it I’ll briefly describe how to spit shine boots to a mirror finish. You’ll need a can of Kiwi shoe wax, a bag of cotton balls, and some cold water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little more wax and repeat.
Re-moisten the cotton ball as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball, it takes several layers (maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine. It’s obvious that the wax builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to flake.
Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Organic wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is cold distilled water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers.
What you are doing is dissolving the solvents so that it doesn't remove the previous layer. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it
Usually, a wax with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer, so use a Carnauba that is not formulated with a high solvent content (Pinnacle Souverän) A solvent will have the potential to strip subsequent layers, but remember that you are not applying neat solvent to the last layer - but a wax and solvent blend. So it is only a fraction of its original strength and won't strip the wax layer like neat solvent. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness
Using a damp applicator and cold (almost ice) distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle neutralizes any solvents in the newly applied layer; the water should be cold, using ice cold water after applying a wax will harden the wax quicker making the shine deeper and help the new wax adhere to the finish, working until the water/ wax solution disappears.The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray fine mists of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a light Carnauba wax to the paint surface.
Always apply extremely thin layers using a very light pressure when spit shining, Wipe it onto a small work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed, keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the very cold distilled water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.
When you spray very cold water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat.
Allow each subsequent Carnauba waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.
After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal
Use a low-solvent wax (Victoria Concours Wax, Souverän or P21S) Some wax products use an emulsion to keep more liquid without adding solvents which, in high concentrations could remove the underlying wax too rapidly to allow the "melting" together of the wax" strata.
Also:
Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Organic wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is cold distilled water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers.
What you are doing is dissolving the solvents so that it doesn't remove the previous layer. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads.
The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it
Bob
I'd like to add this statement from a tech expert at Meguire's:
"We recommend two thin layers just for uniform coverage and appearance. We have yet to see anyone definitely prove that you can continue to build layer upon layer of a sealant or wax. That said, we aren't going to stop you if you want to try it, but we will always recommend against that practice with our waxes and sealants."
Bob
poweraid
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- Mar 23, 2011
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yes I have never heard of it . thought u were really speaking of a true spit shine .forgive me I was just being funny . if this is a method kinda a bad name to go with it . IMO . I'm fairly new to this forum but I visit it everyday and multiple times and I have never come across it. layering nubas fairly common and why the need to neutralize the solvents with distilled idk . wouldn't the solvents just evaporate along with the buff cycle? a process I would not adhere to. , I just simply layer. give some more feedback on this method . we all here to learn .
BobbyG
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- Dec 29, 2009
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I'll see if I can find it....
Flash Gordon
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- Feb 6, 2010
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Yeah, thats a TOGWTF special right there :nomore:
FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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OOOPPPS! Sorry, Flash, I forgot! Egads!!!
Here's a different example sourced from NickT.'s post on:
autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/38121-spit-shine-your-car-technique-revisited
Patent leather shoes have a mirror like reflectivity, but no depth to the shine - much like Zaino on a car. Spit shined shoes have the same mirror like reflectivity, but in addition have an unmatched richness of depth - much like a synthetic topped with a carnauba on your car. Additional spit shined layers add more and more depth.
The problem is how to add layers of shoe polish without softening/removing the underlying layers. Kiwi shoe polish (the choice of expert shoe shiners) has even more solvents than any automotive paste carnauba that I’ve ever used. Spit shining solves the solvent problem.
Some of you learned how to spit shine boots/shoes, but for the others I’ll briefly describe how a G.I. spit shines his boots. You need a pair of boots, a can of Kiwi, a bag of cotton balls, and some water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little more wax an repeat. Remoisten the cotton ball as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball. It takes several layers (maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine. It’s obvious that the wax builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to flake.
Many months ago there was a lot of discussion about whether or not it is possible to layer carnauba on a car. I knew from experience that you could do it on shoes, so I started experimenting on my car. I quickly found out that using the normal wax application technique didn’t work - the new wax just softened and smeared the old wax. Then I tried using very thin layers of carnauba and waiting a day between layers, and this gave decent results. Next I tried using a spit shining technique on a small area of bare Zaino. This gave excellent results, but was very tedious.
A year ago I made a post on Autopia about this technique. Since then I’ve been playing with different methods in an attempt to make the process at least a little less tedious, and here is what I’m doing now.
Supplies needed: a low solvent paste carnauba such as Souverän or S-100/P21S; a 4” square of microfiber; a spray bottle that puts out a fine mist - not large drops; distilled water; a couple of MF towels. Keep the spray bottle/water in the refrigerator (thanks Brian-4DSC).
Method: Dampen the MF square and load it with just enough wax to thinly cover a small area - 1/4 hood or 1/2 door. Wipe it onto the work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed to keep a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. Now to the third work area. For the fourth step go back and redo the first area. Next do area four, then two, then five, then three, then six, etc. After you do the final area you’ll have a car with a lot of spots of hazed wax - but not to worry. Lightly mist an area with the cold water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently. When the towel becomes damp switch to a new towel. After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, and each time it increases the depth of the shine.
I don’t have an objective method of measuring the hardness of the spit shined carnauba, but subjectively - - bug removal is very nearly as easy as it is with only Zaino on the front of the car.
This is not a method for those of you who wash your car once a week and wax once a month, but it is great if you QD every day and seldom wash the car. I have had the best results with Pinnacle Crystal Mist QD which I keep in the refrigerator.
Bob
poweraid
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- Mar 23, 2011
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care to explain what this means ?