Spit-Shining

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Superblackbird

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Wgat is spit shining.Can someone be kind enough to elaborate the process for the above.Thanks:cheers:
 
.............you dont mean.......like.........spitting on a surface and buffing it off....do you????????:confused:
 
I personally think it's a lot of hype. I tried the spit shine method and found it to be no better than a regular hand application. For my black car, my time is better spent putting on a coat of RMG or Menz glaze prior to the LSP. Just my $.02
 
just spray water, a lot of the shoe shiners use a fine mist of water instead of spit nowadays
 
Im lost are we talking about something else...or about the spit shining like the old shoe polishers?:confused::confused:
 
Here is a copy and paste on the subject.
This was posted by Neothin.....a long-time member here.
spit shining 101-

1. have a layer of cured carnauba on the car (usually takes about 24 hours). When I say a carnauba has to cure, I'm talking about all the solvents that are in the wax have to evaporate leaving just the carnauba on the car.
2. take a spray bottle of pure water and put it into the freezer. Do not let it turn to ice. You want it to get as cold as possible without it turning into ice. When I spit shine, the top 1/2 inch or so of water in the bottle is ice.
3. now for the actual spit shining part. spray a small area of the paint with the cold water (somewhat generously). Then apply your carnauba over top of the cold water. make sure that the paint is cool to the touch before you start. apply until the droplets are gone. Let the nuba dry and then buff off with a MF.

Now for an explanation of what's actually happening here. If you have a layer of carnauba on the car, and then you apply another layer of carnauba on the car, the solvents in the second layer of carnauba will actually dissolve the first layer and the two layers will combine. The cold water spritz'd onto the surface keeps the first layer solid and doesn't let it dissolve. For example, collinite's 845 insulator wax is a good example. When the wax is warm, it's a thick liquid. When cool though, it becomes almost a paste because it hardens up. This is exaxtly what is happening on your paint. The cold water hardens up the first layer of wax to the point where the second layer's solvents cant dissolve it. Instead of having just one layer of wax on the car that is a combination of whatever you've applied, by spit shining the layers you apply, you have separate and defined layers of wax which helps the look overall (especially for showing the car off and you have 4, 5, 6, or more layers on the car).
Click to expand...
The thread is located here http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/detailing-forum/727-souveran-over-nattys-blue.html
 
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I took spit shining to another level and instead of using cold water, I threw some OCW in the fridge and used that :). I then spray on some OCW and rub in some Natty's and get a very glossy finish. I have also sprayed a squirt or two of OCW on the paint before using a finishing pad on the PC with PB EX or a liquid wax ... same results :). I found it to add a lot of gloss to the finish...

Here is the Tacoma after OCW and either Natty's or S100 spit shined... can't remember...

Very glossy:
4.jpg


Yet a ton of metal flake still:
3.jpg
 
alban61 said:
Here is a copy and paste on the subject.
This was posted by Neothin.....a long-time member here.

The thread is located here http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/detailing-forum/727-souveran-over-nattys-blue.html
Click to expand...

This is super interesting. I read it all but I am confused. How does this water harden the wax and prevent it from being dissolved? Also, you mist the panel right, then you apply the wax on top pf the panel, how will the drops disappear? And how does this work with a wax like SSII where you are suppose to wipe on wipe off and not let it haze, do you let it haze?
 
I tried this before and didn't notice any difference. Possibly user error. Wonder if I could use a piece of glass and build it up to the point the you could scrape it off. Also if the cold hardens the wax so that it doesn't come off couldn't you just add layers upon layers on a cold winter day?
 
The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray a fine mist of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a light Carnauba wax to the paint surface, Always apply extremely thin layers using a very light pressure when spit shining, Wipe it onto a small work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed, keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the cold water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.

When you spray very cold water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat. Allow each subsequent Carnauba waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.

After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal

Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with. even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it. (See also Layering)

Information resource-based on information in a post by NickT on Autopia.org and method used to shine RAF uniform dress shoes
 
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Do you think that it will be the same if you remove the firt layer, then spritz some cold water and then you put the next layer?
 
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