Spray and rinse sealants.

PA DETAILER

PA DETAILER

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I have experience with Hydro Blue. Like the product and never had issues with it. But curious how the other offerings stack up. Feel free to chime in on these other ones.

1. Gyeon wet coat.
2. Sonax spray & seal.
3. 303 touchless sealant.
4. BF hydro seal.

All in the same category. Which one stood out for you and why?
 
Only ever tried Wet Coat.

On the fence on it. I used it on a beater vehicle to test out. I did a few side panels, and part of the hood.

What I didn't like: Water beads that did NOT blow off after driving at freeway speeds (55 mph).

What I liked: Easy to spray on, and high pressure rinse off.
 
I've tried 3 of the 4:

1. 303 Touchless sealant was streak free and last a solid 3 months on my maintained car, probably could've went a little longer. Great value due to the larger size than the others, makes a difference to help maintain your rims or a boost to the front end when going on a trip.

2. GYEON WetCoat was used after it sat for about a year and formed these crystalized balls in the bottom, used it on my wife's old Mazda 6 and it seemed ok, will try the new formula because I trust Gyeon products fully.

3. SONAX spray and seal is currently on my wife's Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross and was played on there on August 11th of this year and it's still going VERY strong! It's a thicker product but due to the superior spray head it goes on very easy and when drying the car afterwards you can REALLY feel the difference, absolutely love this product

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Betcha the Sonax spray & seal coupled with their BSD used as a drying aid would be one fine combo!
 
Sorry for the newb question, but, how do you use BSD as a drying aid ? What is the equipment and process used ?
 
Serenitynow said:
Sorry for the newb question, but, how do you use BSD as a drying aid ? What is the equipment and process used ?
Click to expand...
A drying is basically spraying the product on a just washed and rinsed car and while wet just spray the product on (BSD in this case) and dry off

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Serenitynow said:
Sorry for the newb question, but, how do you use BSD as a drying aid ? What is the equipment and process used ?
Click to expand...

Never apologize for a "Newb Question". :)

And Roger answered it perfectly.
 
So, the water on the vehicle won't dilute the BSD enough to make it ineffective?
Or do you let most of the water from rinsing dry first ?

Also, after spraying BSD on the wet vehicle, do you just wipe/dry it with a microfiber towel ?

How large of an area do you spray and dry at one time ?
 
No.

And NEVER let the rinse water dry onto the paint.

Dry immediately.
 
Thanks Paul.
I see you're a big fan of Collinite 845 from other threads.
I'm looking for something easy to use as a LSP. Would really like a spray and wipe product. I know 845 isn't like this, but I would make the exception if the difference is worth the extra time and effort.


I want to be able to use it on everything- paint, trim, moldings, glass, chrome bumpers, etc.

Do Sonax PNS/BSD and 845 give me that usage?
 
Serenitynow said:
Thanks Paul.
I see you're a big fan of Collinite 845 from other threads.
I'm looking for something easy to use as a LSP. Would really like a spray and wipe product. I know 845 isn't like this, but I would make the exception if the difference is worth the extra time and effort.


I want to be able to use it on everything- paint, trim, moldings, glass, chrome bumpers, etc.

Do Sonax PNS/BSD and 845 give me that usage?
Click to expand...

845 is idiot-proof. As long as you apply it VERY thin. And it is a proven LSP

But sadly, not the thing to use on trim. Using it on the windshield is great until you hit the wipers for the first couple of times. Then it's gone. (Not intended for glass use anyway).

A product to cover the entire range of the exterior might exist, but I have never used one.
 
PaulMys said:
A product to cover the entire range of the exterior might exist, but I have never used one.
Click to expand...

But I thought that was the whole idea behind these " Spray and Rinse" sealant products - to easily get a sealant layer of protection on every surface of the vehicle's exterior.

Am I misunderstanding something here ?
 
Serenitynow said:
So, the water on the vehicle won't dilute the BSD enough to make it ineffective? Or do you let most of the water from rinsing dry first ?
Click to expand...

I like to blow dry the car with a leaf blower immediately after rinsing. That gets most of the water off the car. Then I'll want to use a microfiber towel to dry off the remaining water. To do that without scratching the paint, I need some kind of lubrication. BSD (and many other products) provide that lubrication as well as add protection. So for one panel, like a door or whatever, I'll put a very small spray of BSD (less than you'd expect) and use a clean microfiber to wipe down the whole panel.

You are right-- if you don't blow dry the car first, BSD isn't going to be effective in providing lubrication nor protection. If you don't have a leaf blower or similar tool, you can get a large microfiber drying towel. I would use a drying towel to soak up most of the standing water, then go back with the routine mentioned above to get the last drops.
 
Serenitynow said:
But I thought that was the whole idea behind these " Spray and Rinse" sealant products - to easily get a sealant layer of protection on every surface of the vehicle's exterior. Am I misunderstanding something here ?
Click to expand...

Spray and Rinse products are great at this. HydrO2, 303 Protectant, Hydro Blue, Wet Coat.... They provide a really good hydrophobic layer and you can apply them to the entire exterior of the car. A lot of people here say that's not enough protection, though, that they want a layer of sealant and/or wax underneath.
 
Blow drying the car is best (and more fun) but unfortunately with a spray and rinse product you really wanna wipe it dry with a towel to wipe it in

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Really? I've never done that with a spray and rinse other than Megs Ceramic. I'll have to try it.
 
Used Gyeon Wet Coat and Carpro Hydro2 lite and Sonax Spray and Seal on the 2 cars I maintain back and forth the last 2 years. 2-3 months until they degrade so you want to reapply them. This is with great performance from them during this time. If possible I would apply it every month or so and you will be haveing a high performance during a long time. What I do for saveing product and getting a better coverage with the spray on rinse off products. Is when I have sprayed it on a wet panel I wipe it in with a mf towel or mf applicator sponge. Then rinse it off very thoroughly with a strong water pressure. On a small panel 2 sprays per panel and the larger size panels 3-4 sprays. And IME you get a better performance from it than just spray on and rinse off. It's noticeble when it gets on it's last legs as it wears off kind of splotchy with spray on rinse off only. And you use less of product at the same time. Sure a little extra work but I have a physical disability and still find it worth to be doing.

If you have the trim in a good condition and not so much of oxidation and dullness on them. The spray on rinse off product is working great for me. And the trim looks great and stays so. The glass I get a very high performance on and a longer durability from it too. But it's on the glass where you don't have the wipers as they wear it down after you have used them for a while. The side windows is it awesome on and have had a longevity up to 6 months on them. The only place where I feel it don't perform on is rubber. So some kind of rubber protection before is needed IME. Otherwise I use it on every part of the vehical and it's a little hard to not be doing so LOL. It's ability to spread with the water is just magic.

For the looks I have the Sonax Spray and Seal on the top spot. It's gets a more candied gloss like almost a carnuaba wax does. The Gyeon Wet Coat has the more sharp crispy look that suits the white paints awesome. Carpro Hydro2 gets you somewhere in between looks wise. The new version of Gyeon Wet Coat is really a bump up in the performance and longevity from it. I needed to be doing a couple of applications with a couple of weeks apart to get the highest performance from the old version. Now you get it from the first application and I really like it.

Have not used Hydro Blue or 303. The HCW I have only tested on a half of the hood and have that going on now. Have used a couple of others not sold on AGO. Sonax Spray and Seal have been a slow starter but with the looks standing out and a long longevity from it for being such a product it's in the top for me. The new version of Gyeon Wet Coat blowed past my next favorite which was Carpro Hydro2 lite. Wet Coat you really feel the performance from it right away in an incredible way.

For the ease of use even if I wipe it in before PW rinsing it off. And not wiping but more just spreading it out with from the start a damp mf towel or mf applicator sponge and wring it out when it gets very saturated. I reach for these kind of products more often than really great SiO2 toppers. The lubrication from it when you spread it out is crazy high but use nitrile gloves for not getting it to bond on your hands LOL.

Most of these are really good so pick one that cought you interest of anyone I have mentioned or that other mentions. I have the Turtle Wax Dry N Shine Rinse Wax to try out next which is based on the popular Seal N Shine. Sadly it's an EU product at this point. You get easly a year of protection from 1 bottle of these products. And some starts to cure in the bottle as Wet Coat and Carpro Hydro2 lite from what I have noticed so far. No problem to use them but the older they get the risk of getting it out of the bottle gets higher and that's not good to get on the paint.

/ Tony
 
SWETM said:
....Most of these are really good so pick one that cought you interest of anyone I have mentioned or that other mentions. I have the Turtle Wax Dry N Shine Rinse Wax to try out next which is based on the popular Seal N Shine. Sadly it's an EU product at this point. You get easly a year of protection from 1 bottle of these products. And some starts to cure in the bottle as Wet Coat and Carpro Hydro2 lite from what I have noticed so far. No problem to use them but the older they get the risk of getting it out of the bottle gets higher and that's not good to get on the paint.

/ Tony
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Tony, any thoughts on how these products might compare to using Sonax BSD as a drying aid?

I was having a couple of thoughts. For the spray and rinse products - I would wash, rinse, spray on the product (such as Wet Coat), wipe it around a bit with a damp MF, then rinse, then dry. First thought was what if I followed a similar process wash, rinse, then apply Sonax BSD as a drying aid, and wipe dry with some MF clothes. Or second thought, what if I did a similar process but for the drying aid I used a 50/50 mix of Wolfgang Uber / Sonax BSD?

Just wondering if I would get similar results or perhaps better results. Thoughts?
 
5js said:
Tony, any thoughts on how these products might compare to using Sonax BSD as a drying aid?

I was having a couple of thoughts. For the spray and rinse products - I would wash, rinse, spray on the product (such as Wet Coat), wipe it around a bit with a damp MF, then rinse, then dry. First thought was what if I followed a similar process wash, rinse, then apply Sonax BSD as a drying aid, and wipe dry with some MF clothes. Or second thought, what if I did a similar process but for the drying aid I used a 50/50 mix of Wolfgang Uber / Sonax BSD?

Just wondering if I would get similar results or perhaps better results. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Don't remember if I answered your questions in another thread or not LOL.

I used BSD as a drying aid and did not like how my drying towels got after this. And I think that I put them in the washer rather quickly but not sure if fast enough. At that moment I used a high quality 1200gsm drying towel that holds a lot of water. In the test that Forensic Detailing Channel on Youtube did on the big mf drying towel test he did about 2 years ago. This towel hold around a gallon of water. This ability to hold water and it took a long time through the drying until it left streaks behind was reduced with 60-70% after the use of BSD as a drying aid. And took 5-7 machine washes before my loved drying towel was back to it's crazy performance from it again. So I don't like to use drying aid as for me it took a longer time to drying and a lot more like buffing the paint. Than just 1 drag and dry and then apply BSD on dry paint was faster for me. And you get a longer durability from it applyied on a dry paint.

Performance wise they are simualar with each other BSD and Spray & Seal. They do not use the same technology. BSD and PNS shares the same technology. But I don't think that they are too far between in the chemical build up to Spray & Seal. S&S has the NPT technology which is nano sized polymers and sometimes carnuaba wax in nano size. Then it has those chemicals that does work so great when you spray on and rinse off. So looks wise it's more like the Sonax NPT Cleaner Wax and the Sonax NPT Liquid Wax. With the water behavior as PNS and BSD. The benefit is also a slicker finish than PNS and BSD.

You will get a better water behavior and longevity from the Gyeon Wet Coat. Than if you use BSD as a drying aid or mix of Wolfgang über RW/BSD. Test the über RW and BSD mix and see where it gets you. Some mixes with the BSD you loose the extreme water behavior and self cleaning ability from it and also the longevity from BSD alone. What many does here in EU is to spray the BSD on a mf applicator sponge and apply it like a sealant and as you apply PNS. Some gets 4-5 months longevity from it that way. If you use BSD regualary as a drying aid I would dilute it to at least 1:1 and you can get up to 1:8 and still getting a great lubrication from it. And this is after you have done an application of BSD on dry paint as a base protection layer and maintain it with the drying aid. The risk is that when the paint gets saturated with what the BSD can build up in the protection thickness. And you use BSD full strength every 1-2 weeks as a drying aid. In a couple of months you start to get a lot of streaking from the BSD as a drying aid or apply it on the dry paint. As almost nothing bonds to the paint and you need to be wipe it up from it. This is the same if you use the spray on rinse off product at every or every other wash or if you use a sealant too often. You reach the limit on how much of it that is able to bond. And you get a big problem with the wipe off with streaking galour and many mf towels to soak it all up.

As I understand it from other users of Wolfgang über RW it's glossenhancers don't interfear with the coatings behavior and should not interfear with the BSD either. So do a dry application of BSD either with spraying it in the mf towel or mf applicator sponge and directly wipe it off. If you want to use a drying aid use the über RW in WW/QD dilution. Then monthly or so top with a dry application of BSD. Then you get the most out of both products. BSD and it's longevity and protection and water behavior and self cleaning ability from it. And the added gloss from the über RW between the washes. That's what I would test out to do with these products. And you can even reapply the BSD every 2-3 months as it's useally that durable. You notice when the water behavior degrades and it's time to top it up. The same with the Gyeon Wet Coat as far as how often you reapply it. You can get 4-5 months longevity from it so around 3 months when you would see it to degrade in the performance
 
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