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marathonveloste

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Alright so here are the problems I am running into:

1.) A ton of products to choose from
2.) Code words (M105, DA, etc.)
3.) I am a rookie.
____________________________________________________
I need your guy's help! I have been a lurker of the forums (mainly Show 'n Shine section) for about 2 months now. I love the work that everyone does here, but I am overwhelmed with product choices.

Now some of you are probably asking why I didn't just get a starter kit from Griot's garage or something like that. Well I have bought starter kit's for others things, let's say a tool set for example. I got the set and noticed immediately that it didn't have something I needed (pliers at that time), so I had to go back and buy some pliers. Now to reason #2, I really have never see anyone just use products from the same company. I always see multiple products that are usually from different companies. That is why I am coming to you guys for help. I really need a huge list of the most popular things that range from brushes to grit-guards. I already have a foam gun, some chemical guys wash/foam, and a electric power washer.

Thanks guys for even attempting to read this long post, any help is appreciated as always, thanks!
 
Hey there!

Okay I am a COMPLETE NEWBIE. BUT; this is what I started with based on what I have read here on the forums, and a couple months of various research. My goal was to have an effective 'kit' to maintain and clean my paint and do basic paint corrections while remaining cost effective. (Yes, some products are actually CHEAPER because they last longer or work more effectively; however- when you are buying it all at once, up front cost is a concern).

For Polishing/Correcting:
Griots Garage 6" DA Polisher - Cost effective, and powerful; lifetime warranty.

3 compounding medium/heavy cut pads (I used Chemical Guys hexlogic)
3 polishing light cut pads (again, CG Hexlogic)
A couple of finishing pads for wax application
Megiuars Ultimate Compound (Inexpensive, for scratch and swirl removal)
Meguiars Ultimate Polish (for lighter corrections)
Menzerna P085rd aka SF4500 (For bringing a deep shine to soft paint)
Chemical Guys pad cleaner
3 Glass polishing pads
Griots Garage glass polish
Griots Garage glass sealant
Iron-X

For cleaning/maintaining
6 thick, fluffy microfiber towels (I used Chemical Guys
6 thin, waffle weave microfiber towels (good for glass)
several other assorted microfiber towels
Detailers Pro waterless wash concentrate
Kwazar double-action sprayer (for a waterless wash)
Stoner invisible glass
Long handled razor blade (for glass cleaning)
Clay
Clay Lube (chemical guys)
Meguiars wash
2 5 gallon buckets
2 grit guard inserts
Thick wash mitt
Meguiars Ultimate Quick-Detailer
Various small applicator pads
Detailers Pro Paint Sealant
Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax
Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba (it's 'okay', I'll be trying others)


That's all I can think of that I've bought so far. It's a pretty mild cost way to get into it that has been working pretty well for me so far.

I still need some wheel brushes, a better wheel well brush, some APC (All purpose cleaner) and some better interior stuff.
 
What kind of cars will you be working on? Will you be detailing as a hobby? Are you looking to focus on AIO-type products or multi-step products? Would you like to initially gravitate towards sealants or Carnauba waxes or both? Are you looking to apply products by hand or would you prefer to get a DA polisher? Lastly, how much money do you want to spend ramping-up?

There are quite a few different product lines you can use to get ramped-up at several different price points. Once you provide answers I know I can make a few recommendations.
 
I agree, we need to know your goals then we can better help you with recommendations.
 
Hey there!

Okay I am a COMPLETE NEWBIE. BUT; this is what I started with based on what I have read here on the forums, and a couple months of various research. My goal was to have an effective 'kit' to maintain and clean my paint and do basic paint corrections while remaining cost effective. (Yes, some products are actually CHEAPER because they last longer or work more effectively; however- when you are buying it all at once, up front cost is a concern).

For Polishing/Correcting:
Griots Garage 6" DA Polisher - Cost effective, and powerful; lifetime warranty.

3 compounding medium/heavy cut pads (I used Chemical Guys hexlogic)
3 polishing light cut pads (again, CG Hexlogic)
A couple of finishing pads for wax application
Megiuars Ultimate Compound (Inexpensive, for scratch and swirl removal)
Meguiars Ultimate Polish (for lighter corrections)
Menzerna P085rd aka SF4500 (For bringing a deep shine to soft paint)
Chemical Guys pad cleaner
3 Glass polishing pads
Griots Garage glass polish
Griots Garage glass sealant
Iron-X

For cleaning/maintaining
6 thick, fluffy microfiber towels (I used Chemical Guys
6 thin, waffle weave microfiber towels (good for glass)
several other assorted microfiber towels
Detailers Pro waterless wash concentrate
Kwazar double-action sprayer (for a waterless wash)
Stoner invisible glass
Long handled razor blade (for glass cleaning)
Clay
Clay Lube (chemical guys)
Meguiars wash
2 5 gallon buckets
2 grit guard inserts
Thick wash mitt
Meguiars Ultimate Quick-Detailer
Various small applicator pads
Detailers Pro Paint Sealant
Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax
Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba (it's 'okay', I'll be trying others)


That's all I can think of that I've bought so far. It's a pretty mild cost way to get into it that has been working pretty well for me so far.

I still need some wheel brushes, a better wheel well brush, some APC (All purpose cleaner) and some better interior stuff.
Thanks for the reply, as for the polisher is there a specific reason you didn't go with the Porter Cable?
 
Sorry guys, I guess I should have mentioned that. I will be working on a 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo, and I think the clear coat is very soft because I only have 8,000 miles and I was seeing tons of swirls at 4,000 miles, but that is probably from the worst wash job possible lol.

I will be detailing as a hobby for a while, but I really want to gravitate to doing it as a job. I understand it is extremely hard work, but I love the results in the end.

What is AIO-type products, and what is the difference between AIO-type and multistep? It looks like sealants are the best, but what do you recommend?

I would definetly like to do it with a dual action polisher. As for money I know this stuff doesn't come cheap. I would like to spend around 500-600 for start-up. Thanks guys for the quick replies, if you have anymore questions let me know! :)
 
Hey there!

Okay I am a COMPLETE NEWBIE. BUT; this is what I started with based on what I have read here on the forums, and a couple months of various research. My goal was to have an effective 'kit' to maintain and clean my paint and do basic paint corrections while remaining cost effective. (Yes, some products are actually CHEAPER because they last longer or work more effectively; however- when you are buying it all at once, up front cost is a concern).

For Polishing/Correcting:
Griots Garage 6" DA Polisher - Cost effective, and powerful; lifetime warranty.

3 compounding medium/heavy cut pads (I used Chemical Guys hexlogic)
3 polishing light cut pads (again, CG Hexlogic)
A couple of finishing pads for wax application
Megiuars Ultimate Compound (Inexpensive, for scratch and swirl removal)
Meguiars Ultimate Polish (for lighter corrections)
Menzerna P085rd aka SF4500 (For bringing a deep shine to soft paint)
Chemical Guys pad cleaner
3 Glass polishing pads
Griots Garage glass polish
Griots Garage glass sealant
Iron-X

For cleaning/maintaining
6 thick, fluffy microfiber towels (I used Chemical Guys
6 thin, waffle weave microfiber towels (good for glass)
several other assorted microfiber towels
Detailers Pro waterless wash concentrate
Kwazar double-action sprayer (for a waterless wash)
Stoner invisible glass
Long handled razor blade (for glass cleaning)
Clay
Clay Lube (chemical guys)
Meguiars wash
2 5 gallon buckets
2 grit guard inserts
Thick wash mitt
Meguiars Ultimate Quick-Detailer
Various small applicator pads
Detailers Pro Paint Sealant
Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax
Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba (it's 'okay', I'll be trying others)


That's all I can think of that I've bought so far. It's a pretty mild cost way to get into it that has been working pretty well for me so far.

I still need some wheel brushes, a better wheel well brush, some APC (All purpose cleaner) and some better interior stuff.
That is a very good list. :props:

I love to have a good AIO product for doing quick jobs on friends and family cars, I mostly use the Griot's All in on paint sealant. I do have a bottle of Meguiars Cleaner wax for when I don't want to use the more expensive stuff (think Seinfeld and "spongeworthy")
 
Thanks for the reply, as for the polisher is there a specific reason you didn't go with the Porter Cable?

Yes. The Porter Cable, though tried and true, has a shorter warranty and is a bit less powerful. From what I've read, the GG seems like a better choice. But I doubt you could go wrong with either! That's just me.
 
I agree, we need to know your goals then we can better help you with recommendations.

What kind of cars will you be working on? Will you be detailing as a hobby? Are you looking to focus on AIO-type products or multi-step products? Would you like to initially gravitate towards sealants or Carnauba waxes or both? Are you looking to apply products by hand or would you prefer to get a DA polisher? Lastly, how much money do you want to spend ramping-up?

There are quite a few different product lines you can use to get ramped-up at several different price points. Once you provide answers I know I can make a few recommendations.

Yes. The Porter Cable, though tried and true, has a shorter warranty and is a bit less powerful. From what I've read, the GG seems like a better choice. But I doubt you could go wrong with either! That's just me.
:), is the Griot's Garage still safe for rookies? I have never used a polisher once in my life. Thanks again!
 
:), is the Griot's Garage still safe for rookies? I have never used a polisher once in my life. Thanks again!

Again; I'm a complete newbie! But, my understanding is- since it's not a forced rotation polisher (thus if you apply to much pressure; it'll just stop spinning) and is dual action; it should be safe. The extra power, as I understand it, is useful in that you can use larger pads and work faster.

I've seen some videos of guys intentionally trying to damage paint with a DA polisher and it took a LOT of time, aggressive pads, and aggressive cutting compound over one spot. A LOT of time. Pretty much any non-forced rotation DA ought to be newbie friendly; as I understand it.

Again, I'm a complete newbie! I'm just regurgitating what I've learned from AGO over the past several months of reading and later asking questions! And of course- telling you what I bought. I found that there are a lot of really good 'over the counter' products, like Meguiars Ultimate Compound/Polish, that are sometimes underrated- yet used by some of the pros! Fact is, other stuff is better; but when you are starting out, cost is king sometimes! Because you don't just need polish; you need several pads, and a DA polisher, and pad cleaner, and microfiber towels; and why polish if you aren't going to throw down some protection AND wash it correctly, and so on and so forth. People forget that there's a steep list of things needed to start out with, and $40 polishes may work great, but $10 polishes you can buy at a parts store (or by from AGO still like I did!) are very effective and really add up to reduce your 'up front cost'. Same with things like car wash solutions, waxes and sealants, etc. If you've got the money- go for it! But I spent several hundred bucks and bought a lot of 'consumer grade' stuff!
 
Ask yourself why you are venturing into the side of detailing that involves machine polishing and how far into the future you see yourself going with this venture. What do you do now involving detailing/cleaning/protecting automotive finishes? Do you know how to inspect your results properly and do you? When doing a task are there items you always reach for? And are there items you always wish you had on hand but don't? I recommend you try samples of as many products as you can and determine what you like and what you see you will use the most. In most cases these days retailers are relying on a DA MF system with of some sort/brand to cut/compound and finishing with polishing or finishing foam pads and their choice of finishing polish(e.g. 205, menz 4000/4500, sonus finishing polishes, etc.). You also need to evaluate your particular vehicle, if that is what you will be working on the most. By this I mean, obtain as much knowledge as possible about the paint system on your vehicle along with the history of the paint on your car. Also, what body lines and shapes will you most often be working on? Tight spaces and sharp edges and or open spaces and flatter panels with minimal curves. For the money one can spend just to get started it is worth taking the time necessary to evaluate the things I've stated and many other factors. If new to the world of detailing and modern finishes I would say spend your time and money learning before investing in products and equipment. All that said any DA on the market whether name brand or a knockoff, will suit the needs of a novice. Just cause you can crank a Griot's or Meg's DA up to 6 and keep the pad rotating on a awkward panel doesn't mean you know or are using it properly. Pad size plays a huge part when it comes to DA polishers and most starter kits don't come with the optimal size for a novices needs let alone a particular DA requirements. Before deciding on what compound or polish you need to know what works best with your paint system and know if DAT or SMAT will suit your needs and technique best. That's why samples are key. IMO Meg's is a good place for a novice to start because if you know where product started with them then you can follow it from there to the consumer side and up to the professional end if you desire. This also allows you to gave access to more OTC consumer product lines as well as the prosumer and professional lines. I'm not trying to take away from AG/PBMA and the lines they offer as they have several lines that offer great prosumer products life WG, Pinnacle, and Black Fire swirl removers and polishes. So if you prefer dealing online and or don't have a good selection of OTC products where you live then putting together an order of some samples from AG is a great options as well. Also reaching out to forum members in your area is a highly recommended way to learn and try out products and equipment before making a decision and spending a lot of money.
We'll one to AGO and hope this helps.
 
Here is my list and I am going to try to spend less than your $500-600 cause I don't think you should spend that much. :xyxthumbs:

This is your polisher, basic pads, compound and polish in one package for the multi step work you may want to do.
Griot’s Garage & Meguiar’s Paint Perfection Kit 3rd Generation!
$170
Green Polishing/Finishing CCS Smart Pads™ DA 5.5 inch Foam Pad
$8 = $178
This is your AIO All In One product to be used with the green pad mostly.
XMT 360 corrects, cleans, and seals auto paint! XMT 360 is more than a cleaner wax, its a swirl remover, polish, and paint sealant in one.
$16 =$194
Versatile dressing I would get 2 or 3 32oz bottles and have the different dilutions ready to go for different jobs.
Meguiars D170 Hyper Dressing
$38 = $232
Versatile APC All Purpose Cleaner, again I would get a couple bottles and dilute it to different strengths
Meguiars D103 All Purpose Cleaner Plus
$19 = $251
Spray wax for touchups in between full wax jobs
Duragloss Aquawax (AW) #951
$9 = $260
Paste wax
Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476
$18 = $278
Clay bar
Optimum Opti-Clay, optimum clay bar
$15 = $293
ONR is very versatile too read the directions and you will see, again get a couple more spray bottles for this products different dillutions
Optimum Opti-Clay, optimum clay bar
$16 = $309
Glass Cleaner
Stoner Invisible Glass Aerosol Can: Professional glass cleaner used by more pro detailing shops! glass cleaner, aerosol spray glass cleaner, window
$6 = $315
Wheel Cleaning brush
Daytona Speed Master Jr. Wheel Brush, wheel cleaning brush, detail brush, cleaning brush, mini detailing brush
$20 = $335
Drying Towel
The Guzzler Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towel by Cobra is a better drying towel than a chamois, or terry cloth towel. Microfiber makes the best
$16 = $351
Carpet/Fabric cleaner
This 16oz bottle can dilute down and make you a lot of cleaning solution.
Chemical Guys Fabric Clean 16 oz.
$8 = $359

Then get some more MF towels, some brushes (tire, wheel well, interior detail, upholstery) and you should be set up pretty well for detailing your car. Unless your getting into doing a lot of different cars you don't really need 8 types of polishes and waxes right off the bat like you see most of us getting. Take your time and learn on your car and get used to the polisher and products then as you get more comfortable get some more cars to work on and experiment.
 
I have both the GG 3" and 6" polishers, they are very decent quality, especially at the pricepoint they are at. I quickly ditched the 6" pads though and went to 5.5", they just work the paint better and are easier to work with.
 
Thanks guys for all the replies as all have been extremely helpful. I honestly had no clue where to start on what to get. I also want to say this forum is the most friendliest forum that I have visited. Anyways, there is just one more thing that I am having trouble deciding on. The MF towels that I need, and any other towels I need. I was looking at them all and they all seem to be the same??? I am sure they are not though, if someone could help me with that that would be great, thanks again!
 
Start with cleaning supplies and build up from there. If you buy them from AG, you can break up your orders and get free samples of products (make sure you get free shipping or it's kind of a waste to pay for shipping on several orders just for a free sample). Doesn't do any good to polish if you just add scratches when you wash and dry.

You need grit guards, brushes (short handle, long handle, wheel brush, lug nut brush), wash mitts (I use two, dedicated one for lower half of the car), if you live in an area with bugs, get a bug sponge! MF towels, you will need a bunch of them at some point. I use ones from Sams Club for doing general dirty cleaning (door jams, wheels, engine..) get a couple good waffle weaves for drying (or a leaf blower, but I still use a waffle weave with a blower), get some good glass towels, and some good wax removal towels. There are a lot of opinions out there, but I love the miracle towel. read the MF comparison chart and try a couple of the ones that sound like the fit your needs. Once you figure out which ones you like, buy more, and more, and more......... My opinion, don't bother with a pressure washer, I have 2 and seldom use them (mainly just use them on the RV).

Of course you will need to decide on a DA. Everyone has an opinion on these as well. They all look like good options. I use a Flex 3401 and a PC 7424. The Flex is my main tool, I use the PC mainly for small areas and applying wax.

By the time you get all of this, you should have quite a few sample products that you can play with. Again, personal opinion, I love Blackfire for metallic and Pinnacle for solids. A lot of people swear by Megs, I don't care for it, but it may be my technique. Again, different opinions based on personal experiences. You have to figure out for yourself what works best for you in different situations. I don't believe there is a magic product out there that is the do all and end all for every situation. If you look around, you may actually find some people selling products cheap or even giving them away. I got my current supply of Pinnacle from a friend that was "cleaning house".

I know I didn't go into specifics on a lot of what your are looking for, but it really comes down to you and what you like.
 
Hello,
Great advice around, nice to read from you guys.

What you have to keep in mind is that independent of what you buy to start (spending $200 or $2000), there will be always something missing that will cause you to place a new order... you'll only know what are your real needs when you start practicing.

That being said, I think straight forward that you must buy the minimum (but ALL) needed to start polishing your paint as soon as possible, start working on your own car, then you can decide better on how to spend the rest of your money. This will avoid 'accumulating stuff' you'll never use.

To start doing a full exterior detail in your car, and unless it is on 'need to be wet sanded' / 'gain a new paint job condition', this simple step by step for basic starting needs will keep you covered to completely transform you car in a close to show car finish (yeah, don't expect 100% results at your first use, but count on more than 85%, depending on your dedication):

(I've put emphasis at some phrases in bold to make reading easier)

- First, you'll need to wash your car:
Car shampoo (basically any at AG!)
2 buckets with grit guard (maybe 1)
a wash mitt
1 drying towel

Have a nice clean car, now

- You'll clay:
1 Claybar and/or Clay mitt/towel/sponge (I prefer the alternatives to claybar, but always good to have some piece of traditional clay around)
Clay Lube (buy ONR), will work as lube, quick detailer, rinseless wash, etc.
1 MF towel (somewhat fluffy) for cleaning clay lube residue

- You'll Machine Polish your car:
a polisher (PCXP / GG / G110v2 or the more 'professional' Flex / Rupes). If you can afford, get one of the last 2 I've cited.

For any machine you get, take one additional (or 2, if needed) smaller backing plate. You'll need to accommodate 5.5' pads (specially with the first 3 DA's listed) and smaller 4' pads for spots / difficult access areas.

Get a set of 3 Hand Applicators (example: LC CCS kit orange, white and black / LC HT kit (cyan, tangerine, crimson) to hand polish where you can't get via machine. This will add professionalism to your results.

- You'll compound with your machine:
2 units 5.5' cutting pads (LC Orange Flat / CCS, or LC HydroTech Cyan or Meg's Micro Fiber Cutting Pad)
2 units 4' cutting pads (same as your larger 5.5' option)
Some compounding product (to start, Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is the cheapest effective in my opinion). Get Meguiar's D300 if you go with MF cutting Pad
1 microfiber towel to remove compound residue

- You'll Polish to a high gloss:
2 units 5.5' polishing pads LC white flat / CCS or LC hydrotech tangerine or Meg's Microfiber finishing discs
2 units 4' polishing pad of the same type you've chosen 5.5'
Some Finishing Polish (to start, Meguiar's M205). It is a professional product however really good to work with, easy to use and promote high quality finish. As a fine cutting polish, it has great versatility. Get Meg's D301 if you decide microfiber pads
1 microfiber towel for removing polish residue

The following steps aren't needed if you've chose above Meguiar's Microfiber System (cutting pads/D300, finishing pads/D301). Also recommend for you to pick up the kit if you decide Meg's MF, comes with everything you need (even Backing Plate, a free M100 compound for more cut and an useful apron). Only misses the smaller spot pads.

If not, keep following:

- You'll finish your work (or glaze before wax application):
2 units 5.5' finishing pads LC gray/black flat / CCS or LC hydrotech crimson
2 units 4' pads of the same pad quality you've ordered 5.5'
As finishing polish you can also use M205, or if you have a dark car, get Meg's UP (ultimate polish) to improve even more the finish. UP is full of polishing oils and fillers that will add to your final result

- You'll wax / seal:
1 unit wax/sealant, I'd go with Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax to start (easy to use, great results, do not stain trim). Is absolutely compatible (synergistic) with everything cited above
1 unit LC Red (ultra soft) 5.5' Pad
1 unit LC Red 4' Pad.
Use the MF towel included on Ultimate Wax to remove residue, and the hand applicator to spread the wax to the car or 5.5' Pad, then to the car.


Ok, You've done it all. Wash, clay, compound, polish, glaze, seal.

Now, after all this hard work, you sit to admire the beautiful shine and reflection you've created, and start thinking:

What do you missed? Do you feel it's important to buy a Wheel Brush to better clean your wheels, or even a dedicated wheel cleaner? Window cleaner / window towel? Does your windows have ugly waterspots? You'll need a water spot remover, maybe glass polishing pads. Paint feels nice, but what about restoring plastics? There will be another dedicated product and applicators. Look bellow your hood. Do your engine need a clean / restore? After vacuum cleaning the interior, and using a cheap microfiber towel to remove superficial dust: would you need a dedicated cleaner/protectant? What about tire dressing? Brushes would have made it easier for you? Do you have leather seats, and want to clean and condition then? Do you miss a pad conditioning brush? Would you like to take a 'shortcut' and avoid doing so many steps, or your car is in nice shape? Consider an AIO (like Pinnacle XMT360 / Blackfire Polish N Seal, etc). Do you need more cut? Order a more 'powerful' compound / aggressive pad... Do you feel you'll have great results topping your Ultimate Wax with a quality carnauba wax? Order some... Will a spray wax be good to 're-touch' after washes, between waxing periods?

Of course there are a lot more questions, but as I've said, you'll have to start doing something to know what you'll really need. If you try to start covering all spots, take a look above at what kind of trouble you're getting into. Not to say it's impossible, but little probable.

I know it's a lot of information, but keep in mind I've not included many information, otherwise I would never end this answer. That's because this question do not have an exact answer. If you choose a Rupes (cited above), you'll probably follow to the Rupes line of pads, polishes and compounds (at least to start). Using a Flex, LC Hybrid Pads (not cited above) are a good (but not the only) option...

Take my thoughts as an opinion and general guidelines, NOT as a RULE, please. You can follow with any product you want, I've used Meguiar's products as examples because they are high quality, easy to find, easy to use, generally cheap and almost error proof.

Hope I've helped someway...

Good luck!,

Kind Regards.
 
Sorry guys, I guess I should have mentioned that. I will be working on a 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo, and I think the clear coat is very soft because I only have 8,000 miles and I was seeing tons of swirls at 4,000 miles, but that is probably from the worst wash job possible lol.

I will be detailing as a hobby for a while, but I really want to gravitate to doing it as a job. I understand it is extremely hard work, but I love the results in the end.

What is AIO-type products, and what is the difference between AIO-type and multistep? It looks like sealants are the best, but what do you recommend?

I would definetly like to do it with a dual action polisher. As for money I know this stuff doesn't come cheap. I would like to spend around 500-600 for start-up. Thanks guys for the quick replies, if you have anymore questions let me know!

My personal recommendation is as follows.

1- Focus on building an inventory and technique that will satisfy your immediate needs. As you develop your hobby some inventory will be portable to the business and 100% of your technique (and continued learning) will be required.

2. A Veloster has soft paint so swirls are going to be typical. You have 2 options here. You polish the paint and remove the swirls and then plan on improving your technique every year or two; since you have a "swirl magnet" of a car. OR.... you eliminate the swirls and go with a paint coating or durable wax that will last for a long time.

My recommendation with #2 is that you go with the latter option; turn your vehicle into the showcase and work on your family's vehicles for free or for some cost recovery of the products you purchase.

3. Due to soft paint I would suggest you go with:
a) a GG kit - Wolfgang and Meguiars look OK and I would lean towards Wolfgang
b) 6 microfiber towels - I like Cobra Supreme 530's and Junior 600's as
c) 2 wax removal mf's towels - Something in a waffle weave family will serve you well for wax removal and also cleaning glass. As to cleaning glass splurge a little and go with Invisible Glass aerosol spray. You will NOT be disappointed and you may be WOW'd with this product.
d) OTC soap without wax additives will be fine if you stay in Mothers and Meguiars product lines. I have no experience with other OTC product lines and see no need to venture away from these 2. In terms of stretching your dollar look at the Wolfgang gallon sale or Dodo Juice Born to Be Mild.

(at this point I think you are down $250.... or 50% of the low end of your budget)

e) Get Optimum No-rinse (ONR), as stated already it is a fantastic multi-use product depending on dilution ratios used. In conjunction do to the local Home Depot and get several $0.99 spray bottles.
f) Get an Iron remover product. CarPro, Wolf's and Dodo Juice have them. It will save you time in the long run
g) Get Mother's Clay Bar system. The clay is very good for someone just starting out and you get a spray bottle that you can eventually re-use with a ONR mixture. It will also be nice to your soft paint.
h) As for compounds and polishes, should you be thinking you need more than Wolfgang or Megs you are wrong; at least initially with the Hyundai. You have more than enough to evolve to the next level. Your money is best spent elsewhere.
i) Regardless of price point, any AIO will all do well with your Hyundai and most other vehicles (since your technique should be the focus moreso than product variety). Also, with the GG kit you would not intermix the Wolfgang or Megs products with an AIO in the same detail. So for now, skip the AIO and get a cleaner-wax or cleaner-sealant type product. Mike Phillips has a good article on this topic in the forum. Pick your poison here.
j) As for wax, assuming you agree with me that your vehicle will be the showcase you can go with a very durable wax such as Collinite 476 (which will last over a year on your paint and the tin lasting years), or a coating (semi-permanent or permanent).
k) When you are not performing a "correction" detail and simply want to "maintain" the finish with minimal correction, you can go with a cleaner-wax.
l) For a finishing wax that adds some gloss and more protection over your wax choices, Optimum Car Wax is the bomb (again, bottle or gallon will last years)
m) As for an APC, Megs APC+ is multi-use and will serve you well for interior and exterior cleaning. Paired with some terry towels you are ready for this task
n) CarPro PERL is awesome and multi-use for interior and exterior dressing
m) For cleaning your pads, Dawn Ultra, APC+ and some elbow grease will do the deed. For cleaning your microfibers go with an OTC "Green" detergent with no dyes and all-natural ingredients. Combined with Distilled White Vinegar as a natural softener you will be set here for awhile.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...erence-between-cleaner-wax-finishing-wax.html

You probably will be on the low-end of your budget with my recommendations and with some time and energy you will also have a shelf full of products that will for the most part be transportable to your business.

If by chance I left anything out I am sure others have already covered me (or will in the future). Feel free to request clarifications as needed. Good luck.
 
Ok I'm going to go a bit different direction here. You are just working on one car so we can simplify this a bit!

1. Buy a GG6 if you want, but honestly any DA will work! The harbor Freight DA would be a much cheaper choice. After this correct the paint using WG Uber Compound. You can cut the swirls and finish in one step. Get a couple of Optimum MF pads (two cutting, one polishing) or a set of LC CCS pads (2 orange, 1 blue or white).

2. Put a coating on it, even if you want to use a wax or sealant in addition. I recommend DP Paint Coating or Opti-Coat. You need something tough on that soft paint. DP is really easy to apply.

3. Learn how to ONR wash. It will make your washing routine super simple and fast. Get a gallon of ONR with Wax and it will last you for years.

4. Don't mess with a clay bar, get a fine grade Nanoskin sponge. $13 and you will be able to clay your car dozens of times with it. The ONR can be used as a lubricant for it.

5. As for the interior, if I was just detailing my own vehicles I would order a gallon of Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and maybe a bottle of 303 Aerospace if I wanted a little gloss.

6. A gallon of Megs APC+, a gallon of Opti-Bond Tire gel (this will last you years upon years), and some glass cleaner. Practically any glass cleaner from AG will work fantastic.

All of the advice on this thread is great, this is just my 2 cents.
 
My personal recommendations are: Rupes 15 & Mini kits.

Done. All you need, except maybe some more Rupes pads. So, simple - all the products will work perfect together. They are even color coded. All you need now is to win that grand. Every other product pick a PBMG line: BF or WG. They are both durable and good. Get whatever you need from that line. K.I.S.S.
 
If you plan on detailing for money at some point, have thought about putting this started it money towards education like a detailing class? The price to become certified/educated by a pro is going up every year whole the equipment isn't moving at the same rate. It is what I wish I would have done right away when I thought about starting my business.
 
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