Stone Chip

excalibur

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Need some help here please. Just bought my wife a new sportage turbo and drove up to St Louis to get it, on the way back apparently I got a small stone chip on the hood. I ordered the touch up paint from the dealer, it has the colormatched paint on one end and clear coat on the other. What is the best way to fix this ? Can I do it and achieve good results, or should I take the car to a body shop. The car isnt even a month old so I want it fixed right. The chip is smaller than a match head so it isnt very big, but it is through the paint.

Thanks
 
Dr colour chip will be your friend :)


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Dr colour chip will be your friend :)

Richy, I've never used Dr. Color Chip but does the product actually fill the chip making it level with the finish? How long should the product dry before wet sanding and polishing?
 
I watched the video on the Langka, and thought it looked good but one of the reviews on it spooked me.
 
Need some help here please. Just bought my wife a new sportage turbo and drove up to St Louis to get it, on the way back apparently I got a small stone chip on the hood. I ordered the touch up paint from the dealer, it has the colormatched paint on one end and clear coat on the other. What is the best way to fix this ? Can I do it and achieve good results, or should I take the car to a body shop. The car isnt even a month old so I want it fixed right. The chip is smaller than a match head so it isnt very big, but it is through the paint.

Thanks

lots of ways to handle this; it depends on how particular you are. Dr. Color Chip, Langka, etc. some people just want a way to cleanly add some color in there to keep it from corroding and cut down on the general distraction of the chip.

Langka is cool, but it takes some technique and from my experience, depending on the size of the chip, leaves a flat looking chip. maybe it could be used with clear on top as well? Dr. Color Chip is good for road wash type chips imo but for larger area big chips it doesn't seem to do much better than Langka but it definitely is easier.

some people will recommend a technique that involves cleaning the chip area, building up inside the chip with touch up...in a precise manner, of course - i use those ez-dab micro touch up brushes but with the little absorbent ball knocked off; essentially a long plastic toothpick with a very precise/small end - anyway, they build it up, then once it's almost level after several applications of base, they will fill the remainder with clear. then, once it's dry, block it down lightly and polish.

the problem with that is today's factory clears are SO thin, so blocking down isn't very practical anymore. it's VERY easy to sand through the OE clear.

at this point, i just precisely fill it with reduced base coat...several applications...then top with an application or two of clear (i sprayed automotive clear in a small model paint type of jar and it keeps wonderfully). once it has dried after a couple days, i'll hit it a bit with some optimum spray polish and a minimally light cut pad just to smooth the edges better and clean up any areas that i might have encroached on the OE clear around the chip.

definitely depends on how anal you are.
 
Well, pretty anal, especially with a new car, your method sounds pretty good though. :thankyousign:
 
Richy, I've never used Dr. Color Chip but does the product actually fill the chip making it level with the finish? How long should the product dry before wet sanding and polishing?
Bobby, their product is actually designed to go down inside the chip and fill around the inside of it, not fill it in its entirety(so a black car with a white chip will have the white disappear, but the chip won't necessarily be filled). However, all you have to do is do a few very light coats after each one has dried (give it a day or 2) until you get to the surrounding level and then level it with their leveling product. Or, get yourself some touch up, use a pointy toothpick and apply very little, allow to dry for several days and then level it with Langka or by wet sanding. Either way will work.
 
Bobby, their product is actually designed to go down inside the chip and fill around the inside of it, not fill it in its entirety(so a black car with a white chip will have the white disappear, but the chip won't necessarily be filled). However, all you have to do is do a few very light coats after each one has dried (give it a day or 2) until you get to the surrounding level and then level it with their leveling product. Or, get yourself some touch up, use a pointy toothpick and apply very little, allow to dry for several days and then level it with Langka or by wet sanding. Either way will work.

OK, I have the touch up paint ordered, so just fill it a little for a couple of days, then finish it off with clear coat, and then level it with what ?
 
If you don't want to venture into wet sanding, which can be dangerous, your other option is to do it chemically wiht Langka, which AG sells.
 
OK, I have the touch up paint ordered, so just fill it a little for a couple of days, then finish it off with clear coat, and then level it with what ?

Before you start filling in the chip...

Use a section of a good clean microfiber/cotton towel with some Wurth Clean Solve: Wurth Clean-Solve, (or equivalent)...applied to it to remove any contaminates (such as: wax, silicone, dirt, etc.).
This will ensure that the chip, and the area immediate surrounding it, is absolutely "ready" for your chip repair process.

Some very good suggestions have been offered on how to introduce the touch-up paint into the chip.

My tooth pick method for filling-in a paint-chip of the size you've described:
-Keep the vehicle out of the sun...work in the shade/garage/carport
-Tape off the area around the chip...trying to leave 'Just enough' of the exposed chip work-area
-Make sure the touch-up paint has a 'thin' composition (depending on the type of touch-up paint---should be on the label: either a paint thinner or paint hardener)
-Apply enough touch-up paint (via tooth pick) to the chip so it is nearly filled-up, but not overflowing.
-Wait a few minutes...Take another clean, "Wurth Clean Solve'd"-MF/Cotton towel, and gently swipe over the chip...you'll remove some of the touch-up paint, but don't worry...this will aid in 'pushing' the touch-up paint into every nook & cranny of the chipped area...as well as clean-up the surrounding area of any excess.
-Let this chip-repair-step...dry and cure for a few days (unless you have IR lamps to speed up this process)
-Repeat the above until there is but a miniscule gap (2.5mils :D) between the surrounding, unharmed BC/CC and the chip...
(a square/flat-edge, and good lighting;
will assist you in detecting: this "sighting")
-Apply the CC to level..let it cure...Usually a gentle polish will be all that's necessary to make the repair gleam! Your "finale's" diagnosis may vary (YFDMV), though.

Hope your repair goes well...no matter the process you choose!! And don't rush!

:)

Bob
 
Before you start filling in the chip...

Use a section of a good clean microfiber/cotton towel with some Wurth Clean Solve: Wurth Clean-Solve, (or equivalent)...applied to it to remove any contaminates (such as: wax, silicone, dirt, etc.).
This will ensure that the chip, and the area immediate surrounding it, is absolutely "ready" for your chip repair process.

Some very good suggestions have been offered on how to introduce the touch-up paint into the chip.

My tooth pick method for filling-in a paint-chip of the size you've described:
-Keep the vehicle out of the sun...work in the shade/garage/carport
-Tape off the area around the chip...trying to leave 'Just enough' of the exposed chip work-area
-Make sure the touch-up paint has a 'thin' composition (depending on the type of touch-up paint---should be on the label: either a paint thinner or paint hardener)
-Apply enough touch-up paint (via tooth pick) to the chip so it is nearly filled-up, but not overflowing.
-Wait a few minutes...Take another clean, "Wurth Clean Solve'd"-MF/Cotton towel, and gently swipe over the chip...you'll remove some of the touch-up paint, but don't worry...this will aid in 'pushing' the touch-up paint into every nook & cranny of the chipped area...as well as clean-up the surrounding area of any excess.
-Let this chip-repair-step...dry and cure for a few days (unless you have IR lamps to speed up this process)
-Repeat the above until there is but a miniscule gap (2.5mils :D) between the surrounding, unharmed BC/CC and the chip...
(a square/flat-edge, and good lighting;
will assist you in detecting: this "sighting")
-Apply the CC to level..let it cure...Usually a gentle polish will be all that's necessary to make the repair gleam! Your "finale's" diagnosis may vary (YFDMV), though.

Hope your repair goes well...no matter the process you choose!! And don't rush!

:)

Bob

Thanks, for all the info. I will probably attempt this the first part of next week, I will try and post some before and after pics. :dblthumb2:
 
Ok, picked up my paint stick, touch up paint today finally, it isnt like I thought it was going to be. It is paint on one end and clear coat on the other but it doesnt have a brush on either end both ends look like a magic marker, and after you are done you can pull these tips out of the stick and wash them for next time. Do I still go ahead and just use this device the way you guys have explained it to me, or since this is different do I do it another way ? I will get some before and after pics also.

Thanks
Michael
 
Does langka come with the paint in their kit? I have a lot of random chips that I need to repair on my car but want to fill them the best way so they aren't noticeable..
 
Does langka come with the paint in their kit? I have a lot of random chips that I need to repair on my car but want to fill them the best way so they aren't noticeable..
Langka is a stand alone product. I spilled about 1/2 out of my bottle today...not very bloody happy!!
 
This has been a real pain in the butt ! Havent been able to get good pictures of it either, but I think I have got it pretty good now, and it least it wont get any worse.
I am going to try with a different camera in a little bit and maybe get the after pics up.
 
i'm not sure what you have but it sounds all wrong, hehe. i am not used to working with anything but reduced (thinned out) base coat mixed at a body shop and put into hobby bottles, and then clear coat that i collect from a spray can and put into the same sort of bottle. it happens to stay thin because of the manner in which it is delivered (aerosol).
 
i'm not sure what you have but it sounds all wrong, hehe. i am not used to working with anything but reduced (thinned out) base coat mixed at a body shop and put into hobby bottles, and then clear coat that i collect from a spray can and put into the same sort of bottle. it happens to stay thin because of the manner in which it is delivered (aerosol).

That may well have been the problem ( too thick ). It looks pretty good but the one stone chip on the front of the hood is a little darker, not much but if you are looking for it yoou can see it. The scratch is almost invisible unless you get right on top and above it. It is smooth now though, and they are covered where they wont get worse. :props:
 
I bought the Dr. Color Chip Kit. I followed their directions. It was very uneven around
the chip itself. Tried wet sanding and inadvertently sanded to the base coat along a bend in the metal.
I am getting the hood re-sprayed next Thursday.
I found it did not work, for me.
Be careful.
 
Need some help here please. Just bought my wife a new sportage turbo and drove up to St Louis to get it, on the way back apparently I got a small stone chip on the hood. I ordered the touch up paint from the dealer, it has the colormatched paint on one end and clear coat on the other. What is the best way to fix this ? Can I do it and achieve good results, or should I take the car to a body shop. The car isnt even a month old so I want it fixed right. The chip is smaller than a match head so it isnt very big, but it is through the paint.

Thanks

You from S. Illinois?
 
You from S. Illinois?

Muskogee,OK Had to drive 400 + miles to get that car in that trim and in that color, it was the closest one to me, that is why I have been very anal about washing, waxing and detailing on this car. Had a Black cherry one just like it, we had it for two months and a box springs flew out the back of a pickup and landed on the hood and winshield at highway speed. Didnt get the hood much really but got both windshield A arms, blew the windshield out, deep scratches in sunroof and panoramic roof. Took months to get it back (no kidding months), had fine glass that looked like powder still all over, blew glass out the vents for months, sandblasted and pitted dash and just about every dash component on the car, even the molding around the gearshift, screen to the navigation. Anyway it was never right again so I drove up to St. Louis and traded it in on a New Signal Red one, same trim and everything. So I am trying to be very caareful with this one and take very good care of it. It is my wifes DD but it is a nice car to us, so I want it to look great. :xyxthumbs:
 
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