Stripping wheel coating?

raysaint

raysaint

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The new car we got last November, as part of my before winter detailing, I Iron-X deconned the OEM rims, cleaned with Brakebuster, and then applied one or two (I forget) coats of 303 Spray/Rinse sealant. That was mid November.
By mid to late December, the wheel assemblies were removed for winter tires.
So the 303 has only had 4 or 5 weeks of driving before winter.

So before putting the OEM assemblies back on, I bought some Gtechniq5 to coat the rims (the oem rubber will be removed, rims coated, then new tires). Do I need to strip the rims first of any remaining 303, and if so, how? (special soap, eraser, etc.) Or will the coating adhere to just a clean rim?

I attached a pic of the car after my November detailing.
 
I would want to rub it down with something before putting a real coating on, primer polish of some sort? Essence, Fiero, NSP 45, Gyeon Primer?
 
I would definitely do a three ph wash I wouldn’t worry about polishing. The spray and rinse are lucky to last a month or two in summer.

Riding through 4 months nothing should be left.

Also remember reading it’s better to coat after new tires on.

Not Q00% sure but think I read it could cause problem with tire sealing to rim.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
I would definitely do a three ph wash I wouldn’t worry about polishing. The spray and rinse are lucky to last a month or two in summer.

Riding through 4 months nothing should be left.

Also remember reading it’s better to coat after new tires on.

Not Q00% sure but think I read it could cause problem with tire sealing to rim.


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Click to expand...

The oem wheels haven't rode thru 4 months, as mentioned, only about a month (Nov to Dec.), as they were removed for winter tires.
What does "three ph" refer to? Three phase, or a ph level of 3?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I would want to rub it down with something before putting a real coating on, primer polish of some sort? Essence, Fiero, NSP 45, Gyeon Primer?
Click to expand...

In reading about stripping soap, high alkaline is mentioned (watched a video also), but a soap like Carpro descale is high acidic, and it says it kinda strips.. What ph do I want?
Garage Therapy Decon, high alkaline, was best in a test on a detail site.
 
raysaint said:
The oem wheels haven't rode thru 4 months, as mentioned, only about a month (Nov to Dec.), as they were removed for winter tires.
What does "three ph" refer to? Three phase, or a ph level of 3?
Click to expand...

Three differnt washes at 3 different PH

You start with an alkaline wash, then an Acidic, then a ph neutral.

Labocosmetica has a kit

In the case of it not gone after that then a lite polish


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You could also look at Gyeon Total Remover...........................

Q²M TotalRemover has been designed to remove everything from external surfaces of vehicles without harming them. Starting with sealants, old coatings, factory waxes and everything in between. Perfect for preparing factory-fresh cars before coating or removing old coatings without the necessity of extensive polishing.
Click to expand...

TOTAL REMOVER - GYEON
 
Wonder about poorboys strip down? Have not yet tried it myself.

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BudgetPlan1 said:
Gave it a go a few years ago, can’t remember what was on the hood but it killed (or masked) the water behavior.

Poorboys StripDown - YouTube


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I actually came across and watched your video this morning!

I wonder how well this product would do at breaking down dried compound. I need somethis that i can use to remove dried compound around all the hucks(pop rivit heads) on semi tractors. They are really good at collecting compound and really hard to remove. I have tried soaking with rinseless mixes, detail sprays etc and no luck yet.

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Coatingsarecrack said:
Three differnt washes at 3 different PH

You start with an alkaline wash, then an Acidic, then a ph neutral.

Labocosmetica has a kit

In the case of it not gone after that then a lite polish


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Click to expand...

Sounds like multiple soap purchases. I'll look into the kit.
I bought Reflect for the paint correction I have to do, maybe that applied by hand would be enough on the rims?
 
So, I saw a video and an article about using diluted Brake Buster, to remove most old coatings; waxes/sealants and mild Sio2 coatings. Video showed water sprayed on a door panel, had lots of beading, then sprayed diluted BB, dwell for 30 seconds, then contact wash and rinse; rinse had almost no beading.

So I'm thinking diluted BB on the rims, then Iron-X, then Eraser, should do the trick. The rims only have a coating of 303 spray/rinse sealant, probably a mild strength of Sio2.
 
raysaint said:
So, I saw a video and an article about using diluted Brake Buster, to remove most old coatings; waxes/sealants and mild Sio2 coatings. Video showed water sprayed on a door panel, had lots of beading, then sprayed diluted BB, dwell for 30 seconds, then contact wash and rinse; rinse had almost no beading.

So I'm thinking diluted BB on the rims, then Iron-X, then Eraser, should do the trick. The rims only have a coating of 303 spray/rinse sealant, probably a mild strength of Sio2.
Click to expand...

In the article/video you are describing, if it was a wax or sealant, Brake Buster would remove or seriously compromise it. On a ceramic coating, I would question that. Brake Buster does leave a corrosion inhibitor behind, so perhaps that was masking the hydrophobic properties of the coating.

Considering you have a spray sealant on the wheels, Brake Buster will remove that pretty easily. I would actually use it undiluted, dilution will require you to make several passes to do the job.
 
raysaint said:
So, I saw a video and an article about using diluted Brake Buster, to remove most old coatings; waxes/sealants and mild Sio2 coatings. Video showed water sprayed on a door panel, had lots of beading, then sprayed diluted BB, dwell for 30 seconds, then contact wash and rinse; rinse had almost no beading.

So I'm thinking diluted BB on the rims, then Iron-X, then Eraser, should do the trick. The rims only have a coating of 303 spray/rinse sealant, probably a mild strength of Sio2.
Click to expand...

BB has a PH of 10 alkaline but not super high. I use the stuff and personally wouldn’t trust it to remove even a sealant.



You have a lot of great recommendations if you wanna try brake buster from a YouTube recommendation try it…. Let us know how it worked out. I wouldn’t personally.

If somebody from HERE thought it would be way to go I think it would have been posted.

To sum up you Should polish (and clay). Not only to remove spray on coating but also any bonded contaminates and other road film you may have gotten in the. 2 months of winter/fall driving you did.

If you want less work I would take one of the other recommendations here.

Me, I f I felt wheels passed baggy test and looked great I would use a product designed to remove waxes and sealant (what you used was a spray in sealant even if manufacturer calls it a coating).

Like the mentioned Gyeon Remover or Kamikaze KMKZ.

I personally wouldn’t use a YouTube/home remedy/hack but if I did I would use APC over brake buster. I have never heard someone I deem credible to do this.

Any person who takes detailing seriously probably going to recommend polishing b core applying an actual coating.

Before you got your car how long did it sit on lot? In rail yard?

A lot of People who look for easy/cheap way out usually back in 6 months asking why there coating failed……. Goodluck




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To compliment the topic, these 15-year-old wheels were coated with Gyeon Wet Coat or Carpro Hydr02 every second wash. Up until this point, they had never been off the car for heavy decontamination or polishing. In this case, the decon and polish was to prepare the wheels for ceramic coating.

Wheel removed from the vehicle, the tires scrubbed with Carpro ReTyre front and back. The wheels were then cleaned using undiluted Brake Buster and then rinsed. I then followed with a clay bar, using NV Purify which is a combined clay lubricant and iron remover. After another rinse, Carpro TarX was used to remove wheel weight adhesive. Rinsed again, the wheel and tire was dried using a blower.




Each wheel was then polished using Sonax Perfect Finish and/or CutMax.




I then wiped the wheels down using Rupes Reveal Lite, followed by a final wipe using the more aggressive Reveal Strong.






Each wheel was then coated.






Mounted back on the car, tires re-dressed.






That looks like a lot of work.....................and that's because it was. The idea being, effort put into the prep prior to the coating pays off in the long run.
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
BB has a PH of 10 alkaline but not super high. I use the stuff and personally wouldn’t trust it to remove even a sealant.



You have a lot of great recommendations if you wanna try brake buster from a YouTube recommendation try it…. Let us know how it worked out. I wouldn’t personally.

If somebody from HERE thought it would be way to go I think it would have been posted.

To sum up you Should polish (and clay). Not only to remove spray on coating but also any bonded contaminates and other road film you may have gotten in the. 2 months of winter/fall driving you did.

If you want less work I would take one of the other recommendations here.

Me, I f I felt wheels passed baggy test and looked great I would use a product designed to remove waxes and sealant (what you used was a spray in sealant even if manufacturer calls it a coating).

Like the mentioned Gyeon Remover or Kamikaze KMKZ.

I personally wouldn’t use a YouTube/home remedy/hack but if I did I would use APC over brake buster. I have never heard someone I deem credible to do this.

Any person who takes detailing seriously probably going to recommend polishing b core applying an actual coating.

Before you got your car how long did it sit on lot? In rail yard?

A lot of People who look for easy/cheap way out usually back in 6 months asking why there coating failed……. Goodluck




Sent from my iPhone
Click to expand...

Lots of good food for thought. I guess trying to not make it gobs of work is nice if you can. Without buying a special machine, I could clay and polish by hand, lots of small spaces to work around though.
And your APC comment, I read that some of those will strip sealants. Or the Gyeon remove all, but I'd still have to iron-X (which I have) and clay and polish? Doesn't polishing do both? Or does clay remove stuff polish won't?
 
DFB said:
To compliment the topic, these 15-year-old wheels were coated with Gyeon Wet Coat or Carpro Hydr02 every second wash. Up until this point, they had never been off the car for heavy decontamination or polishing. In this case, the decon and polish was to prepare the wheels for ceramic coating.

Wheel removed from the vehicle, the tires scrubbed with Carpro ReTyre front and back. The wheels were then cleaned using undiluted Brake Buster and then rinsed. I then followed with a clay bar, using NV Purify which is a combined clay lubricant and iron remover. After another rinse, Carpro TarX was used to remove wheel weight adhesive. Rinsed again, the wheel and tire was dried using a blower.




Each wheel was then polished using Sonax Perfect Finish and/or CutMax.




I then wiped the wheels down using Rupes Reveal Lite, followed by a final wipe using the more aggressive Reveal Strong.






Each wheel was then coated.






Mounted back on the car, tires re-dressed.






That looks like a lot of work.....................and that's because it was. The idea being, effort put into the prep prior to the coating pays off in the long run.
Click to expand...

kudos to your effort and dedication. The NV sounds interesting. I'm hoping a hand polish would be enough to remove what's left after a good cleaning and chemical decon. I have lots of foam hand pads and Carpro Reflect. Your thoughts?
 
raysaint said:
Lots of good food for thought. I guess trying to not make it gobs of work is nice if you can. Without buying a special machine, I could clay and polish by hand, lots of small spaces to work around though.
And your APC comment, I read that some of those will strip sealants. Or the Gyeon remove all, but I'd still have to iron-X (which I have) and clay and polish? Doesn't polishing do both? Or does clay remove stuff polish won't?
Click to expand...

I’m not today’s wiled most try to remove all bonded contaminants before polishing. Polishing should only be affecting paint.

Imagine if you got something small and sharp and swirled it all over paint?


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raysaint said:
And your APC comment, I read that some of those will strip sealants. Or the Gyeon remove all, but I'd still have to iron-X (which I have) and clay and polish? Doesn't polishing do both? Or does clay remove stuff polish won't?
Click to expand...

Whenever you move above or below pH neutral (7.0 - 7.5), you increase the cleaning ability of the product. APC's high pH products, usually beyond pH 11. So yes, using one will help remove weaker existing waxes and sealants.

Iron removers are usually slightly acidic to pH neutral, so they don't have much stripping ability. An iron remover is all about chemically dissolving imbedded iron particles, something wheels are subjected to in high quantity....................unless you have carbon ceramic rotors. The clay bar then grabs any remaining contamination.

Polish can remove contamination, but you really don't want that contamination within your polishing pad and causing more scratches or not achieving the results you may have hoped for.

raysaint said:
kudos to your effort and dedication. The NV sounds interesting. I'm hoping a hand polish would be enough to remove what's left after a good cleaning and chemical decon. I have lots of foam hand pads and Carpro Reflect. Your thoughts?
Click to expand...

Carpro Reflect is a fantastic product which I love because it doesn't dust and is super easy to wipe off. Using Reflect by hand will be fine. It doesn't have a lot of correction ability though, but it will deliver a boost in gloss.
 
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