Swirls, whast is next after Meguiars Ultimate Compound

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carlg

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My car has a black spoiler.

It has some swirl marks.

I tried Meguiar's Swirlx by hand with no luck.

I then tried Ultimate Compound by hand with no luck (still have the swirls)

So going from least aggressive to more aggressive, what is my next step?
 
No, I own which I think is less aggressive an orbital, but am considering buying a DA at some point.
 
carlg said:
I tried Meguiar's Swirlx by hand
with no luck.

I then tried Ultimate Compound
by hand with no luck (still have
the swirls)

So going from least aggressive
to more aggressive,
what is my next step?
Click to expand...
Staying within Meguiar’s SMAT products:
•M95 Speed Cut Compound; then:
•M105 Ultra Cut Compound

D4C61FC2-7085-40EA-929B-2C142B1FA94F.jpeg


Photo Source:
The SMAT PACK - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...


Bob
 
carlg said:
No, I own which I think is less aggressive an orbital, but am considering buying a DA at some point.
Click to expand...

Try Ultimate Compound with that thing. It sure beats using your hands.

Most retailers sell microfiber or terrycloth bonnets. I'd get microfiber. Lightly prime the bonnet, and start working. Technique is important with those machines. I have a Ryobi that actually has good power. Never a first choice tool, but in a situation like yours, I'd absolutely make use of it over hand application.
 
SwirlX and UC will get through it, but nearly impossible by hand. If you're really frugal, the Harbor Freight Palm Polisher will work, with a terry cloth bonnet, it will just take a while. I think the HF Palm is $13 right now.
Microfiber won't go through it.
 
Think I'm going to keep working the UC. I've read some write ups by Mike and it seems like sometimes he does multiple passes with UC. I only did 1.

The car is a grey car. The spoiler, deck lid panel, rear view mirrors are the only black parts that need attention, so my work area is small.
 
DTruck said:
SwirlX and UC will get through it, but nearly impossible by hand. If you're really frugal, the Harbor Freight Palm Polisher will work, with a terry cloth bonnet, it will just take a while. I think the HF Palm is $13 right now.
Microfiber won't go through it.
Click to expand...


Now where is that Harbor Freight car detailing discussion forum?


:dunno:
 
carlg said:
Think I'm going to keep working the UC.

I've read some write ups by Mike and it seems like sometimes he does multiple passes with UC.

I only did 1.
Click to expand...


Just to comment and then a suggestion...


In m life in this industry, I've taught a LOT of car detailing classes and in a lot of these classes I've demonstrated how to remove swirls and scratches and even sanding marks by hand.

And in front of a large group of people, successfully done so, that is remove the defects I said I was going to remove --> by hand.


In fact, when Jason Rose was here and we held a dedicated RUPES detailing class, after machine sanding a demo car, I then by hand using RUPES Zephir Gloss Compound, demonstrated how to remove sanding marks by hand. I think most people standing there watching were surprised by,


  1. How FAST I moved my hand.
  2. How HARD I pressed against the applicator pad.


Here's what I know, if all the years I've taught detailing classes I would have to say that the majority of people that have attended the class (and this would be a cross section of the world), did not possess the physically ability to remove swirls and scratches by hand nor the skill or patience.

In fact, for years I've been typing the below on this forum,


"It requires more skill to remove swirls and scratches by hand than it does by machine"


And by machine, I mean any simple 8mm free spinning orbital polisher.



Here's a tip... try again,


Work only a small area of the spoiler, about 8" across a section.

Use a microfiber applicator with the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Move your hand with ample downward pressure fast in back and forth straight-lines. Repeat this until the swirls and scratches are removed.

The RE-compound using a FOAM applicator pad. This will remove any scratches or marring the microfiber applicator pad instilled.​



As I share in this article, (which is also a good article for you), FIBERS are a form of ABRASIVE and as such can HELP you to work by hand. But because they are a form of abrasive THE FIBERS can leave their own mark. By hand we would call these scratches or marking, when using a microfiber pad on a DA polisher we would call these micro-marring. Big picture, often times working by hand "successfully" means starting with fiber and finishing with foam.


Here's the article,

Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips


Hope the above helps...


:)
 
Depending on what kind of paint your up against, UC can still work wonders.

With a DA like the Porter Cable, doing test spots with different (more aggressive) pads maybe a better option before looking into a more aggressive compound.

Also, when test spotting, you are correct for mentioning multiple passes.

One pass will not do much. We are talking more like 6 or more passes (again depends on the paint).

If anything, after that follow up with UP and LSP.

When I first started on my personal vehicle, the Ultimate Trio was awesome alongside with a GG6. Make sure of have plenty of pads!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
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