Temp. hiding swirls and scratches, until they get fixed?

[Ohio Detailing]

Hey guys,

I just filled up last night, and I've always known those blinding overhead florescent lights at the big gas stations are the most unforgiving ways to gauge your car's condition! Well, as I was watching the meter tick away, I saw tons of unsightly hairline scratches and swirls from when I recently had bodywork done (I discussed the guy's horrendous 'workmanship' in another thread here late last year). I never buffed them out because although it's debatable nowadays, I was playing it safe and letting the new paint cure and breathe, and then ended up putting it in storage for the winter.

So, what's the best temporary fix until I can either find a solid full day to bust out the Makita, or afford a new Flex dual-action, to hide and gloss over those defects, before I eventually do a paint correction? I was thinking a couple coats of glaze, topped with a sealant, and then topped with a rich white carnauba wax? Is that close to being something worthwhile, and if so, what products would be best, and any other tips would be hugely appreciated! THANKS

 

[robovalzuniga]

I would say Glossworkz Glaze from the Chemical Guys is the product you are looking for. Search around,there's plenty of reviews/info.

 

[Conan]

Prima Amigo and Autoglym SRP are good at hiding scratches.

 

[SIXTY3]

I would say Glossworkz Glaze from the Chemical Guys is the product you are looking for. Search around,there's plenty of reviews/info.

Found this review on Glossworkz
Review: Chemical Guys GlossWorkz Glaze - Live2Detail

 

[Ohio Detailing]

I would say Glossworkz Glaze from the Chemical Guys is the product you are looking for. Search around,there's plenty of reviews/info.

Prima Amigo and Autoglym SRP are good at hiding scratches.

Found this review on Glossworkz
Review: Chemical Guys GlossWorkz Glaze - Live2Detail

Thanks a lot guys! Would layering glazes produce amplified results, and THEN following then with perhaps a spray sealant, and top-coat carnauba wax to lock the glazes in for longer? I'm thinking something like Chemical Guy's Blitz, or perhaps Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Spritz Sealant (I've heard the Blitz can be hard to work with, and Wolfgang's results are actually glossier - it's hard to find reviews since Chemical Guy's only leaves 4-5 star reviews on their site).

So what's the best 1-2-3 knockout?
1. Glossworkz Glaze 2 coats (I already have Meg's Glaze, too bad this isn't raved about)
2. Wolfgang 2 coats (or another brand?) Deep Gloss Paint Sealant Spritz
3. Top coat Carnauba wax 2 coats (I have a few brands of this, not sure what I like best)

Then, of course follow up with maybe a spray wax from Duragloss AquaWax, and a final synthetic spray detailer?

PS: How long to let the sprayable sealant cure before applying a second coat, and then subsequent coats of wax and spray wax on top?

 

[Ted S.]

Thanks a lot guys! Would layering glazes produce amplified results, and THEN following then with perhaps a spray sealant, and top-coat carnauba wax to lock the glazes in for longer? I'm thinking something like Chemical Guy's Blitz, or perhaps Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Spritz Sealant (I've heard the Blitz can be hard to work with, and Wolfgang's results are actually glossier - it's hard to find reviews since Chemical Guy's only leaves 4-5 star reviews on their site).

So what's the best 1-2-3 knockout?
1. Glossworkz Glaze 2 coats (I already have Meg's Glaze, too bad this isn't raved about)
2. Wolfgang 2 coats (or another brand?) Deep Gloss Paint Sealant Spritz
3. Top coat Carnauba wax 2 coats (I have a few brands of this, not sure what I like best)

Then, of course follow up with maybe a spray wax from Duragloss AquaWax, and a final synthetic spray detailer?

PS: How long to let the sprayable sealant cure before applying a second coat, and then subsequent coats of wax and spray wax on top?

Meg's #7 is liquide gold! Just do a search of Meguiar's #7 when you have some free time, and you may find some really interesting stuff in some of the threads here. It works wonders on SS paint! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...oduct-testing-ongoing-project-thread-1-a.html)

Do the glaze then a nuba. Sealants need a clean surface to bond properly. Think of a glaze as a layer of oil on the paint. Sealants bond to clean clearcoat, paint, glass, plastic etc, not oil, water, grease, etc.

I'm still curious as to the actual durability of a nuba on a glaze...

 

[Ohio Detailing]

Meg's #7 is liquide gold! Just do a search of Meguiar's #7 when you have some free time, and you may find some really interesting stuff in some of the threads here. It works wonders on SS paint! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...oduct-testing-ongoing-project-thread-1-a.html)

Do the glaze then a nuba. Sealants need a clean surface to bond properly. Think of a glaze as a layer of oil on the paint. Sealants bond to clean clearcoat, paint, glass, plastic etc, not oil, water, grease, etc.

I'm still curious as to the actual durability of a nuba on a glaze...

That's great news about the Meg's Hand Glaze, I have a brand new bottle and used itrecently, but only did one thin coat by hand and wasn't wow'd, but I love Meg's products and it always get good reviews - maybe I need to double layer it.

Good points about the sealant being applied straight to clean paint. The only thing I'm confused about is why the AutoGeek Car Care Guide has the Glaze BEFORE the sealant here: Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides

Since I'm doing this by hand until I find time to do some paint correction, I'm just looking for some "cover up" right now.

 

[bmwgalore]

Poorboy's Black Hole glaze is by far one of the best glazes on the market.

It hides the swirls very well and gives the paint a nice "WOW!", and it can be topped with wax too.

 

[Ted S.]

You can always try multiple layers with anything, but most likely, at least with the glaze, you probably won't see an improvement. If you do let us know!!

I honestly haven't been impressed by the "filling" property of Meg's #7, but the most likely thing that is going on (in my opinion) is that the glaze is filling finer swirls/marring, but the stuff that is already very noticeable (the stuff that we wan't to fill) is too deep for a glaze to have a significant effect.

As far as the chart, the step after a glaze is "sealant or wax" if I am reading it correctly. Honesly, the glaze is the optional step, and I wouldn't use one before a sealant.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

When I first read the title to this thread I mis-read it to mean,

Temperature hiding swirls and scratches, until they get fixed?


Then I though, well heat makes paint expand and cold temps would make paint contract so cold temps could possibly mask or hide some light defects. (Maybe?) Then I re-read it and figured out which word the OP was using. I think I read it wrong because I see people use the shortened version of temperature as temp more than I see people use a short version of temporary as in,

Temporary hiding swirls and scratches, until they get fixed?


Maybe just hit the paint with any good one-step cleaner/wax by machine using a polishing pad. This will,

• Clean
• Polish
• Protect
• Mask or hide to some degree shallow defects

 

[Ohio Detailing]

Poorboy's Black Hole glaze is by far one of the best glazes on the market.

It hides the swirls very well and gives the paint a nice "WOW!", and it can be topped with wax too.

Great suggestion, thank you so much! This is the top hand-applied glaze in your opinion? I'll look into it for sure, I am usually impressed by Meg's Mirror Glaze collection of products, but this just didn't seem to help at all for some reason.

You can always try multiple layers with anything, but most likely, at least with the glaze, you probably won't see an improvement. If you do let us know!!

I honestly haven't been impressed by the "filling" property of Meg's #7, but the most likely thing that is going on (in my opinion) is that the glaze is filling finer swirls/marring, but the stuff that is already very noticeable (the stuff that we wan't to fill) is too deep for a glaze to have a significant effect.

As far as the chart, the step after a glaze is "sealant or wax" if I am reading it correctly. Honesly, the glaze is the optional step, and I wouldn't use one before a sealant.

I never knew laying glaze wasn't a normal or suggested "best practice," thank you so much for sharing that, I'll definitely commit it to memory.

I'm happy to hear you've had the same lackluster results with Meg's Glaze, I always assumed it would be the best hands down because it's a pure polish with no cleaners etc, and was basically formulated SPECIFICALLY for filling in slight blemishes.

Also, THANK YOU for pointing out the "OR" aspect of the AutoGeek guide to detailing steps, so one or the other goes on FIRST to clean wax-free paint: Glaze OR a sealant? I'm curious, if a glaze can be put over a sealant once it cures. I'm really interested in the sprayable sealants, I just ordered a gallon of Chemical Guys V7, because it seemed better to me than their Blitz product, not sure about the acrylic hype, but some reviews said it was hard to work with and get streak free, so hopefully I made the right choice and I shouldn't have gone with Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Spritz Sealant or something else.

 

[Ted S.]

I've read some people use Meg's #7 to squeeze out the last bit of gloss when using it on clearcoats, but I love it for single stage paint. It's amazing for that.

As far ath the glaze on a sealant, who knows?!? Theoretically, I would assume the sealant will repel the oils to an extent, so it may just streak up or even degrade the sealant. It may be something worth looking into though.

 

[bmwgalore]

Yes, the Poorboys Black Hole can be applied by hand or DA, even in the sun!!!
I always follow by some Meguiars 26 Paste wax, excellent results.
But Most glazes are NOT compatible with Sealants, since those require an oil-free surface to bond properly.

Meguiars 7 Glaze is okay, but it lacks the "WOW!" factor that I like, still very good tho.
The same goes to Menzerna glaze, it's just "okay", nothing like "Omigod, wow!".


By the way, the Black Hole is for dark paints. If you have light color paint, look for the other version: Poorboys White Diamond.
I had this White Diamond on my Gallardo Spider... I got pulled over once by a cop asking me how did i get the car so shiny... Go figure..

 

[Ohio Detailing]

Yes, the Poorboys Black Hole can be applied by hand or DA, even in the sun!!!
I always follow by some Meguiars 26 Paste wax, excellent results.
But Most glazes are NOT compatible with Sealants, since those require an oil-free surface to bond properly.

Meguiars 7 Glaze is okay, but it lacks the "WOW!" factor that I like, still very good tho.
The same goes to Menzerna glaze, it's just "okay", nothing like "Omigod, wow!".


By the way, the Black Hole is for dark paints. If you have light color paint, look for the other version: Poorboys White Diamond.
I had this White Diamond on my Gallardo Spider... I got pulled over once by a cop asking me how did i get the car so shiny... Go figure..

My personal cars are vapor metallic silver and sunburst orange.

What is your CHOICE glaze for light, and dark, colored cars ultimately?

 

[robovalzuniga]

In all the 3 times I've applied Meg's #7, I've never been able to tell that I applied it. I use other Meg's products and really like them, but with this one, I don't really get why some people rave about it.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

In all the 3 times I've applied Meg's #7, I've never been able to tell that I applied it. I use other Meg's products and really like them, but with this one, I don't really get why some people rave about it.

It came out during the time of the Model T, so it's been around longer than most of us posting on this forum. It works great on single stage paint, that's the paint system used on cars until the 1980's, or in other words that's the type of paint that was used on cars for more than twice as long as cars since the 1980's.

Besides that, what you think of the product and how important it is to you depends upon what you're working on...

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


Here's an example of mild oxidation on a yellow single stage enamel paint on a 1960 Ford Ranchero, on which I restored the paint a few years ago...

Here's what the paint looks like after the oxidation was removed and the paint was polished to a high gloss.

This is key...
Saturation Application --> The First Application
This is a mostly unknown technique and that is to let the first application penetrate and soak into the paint for up to 24 hours before wiping the product off. The idea being to really apply the product wet and work it in really well and the walk away.

The idea is to allow the heavy concentration of oils to penetrate and seep into the paint for maximum saturation before removing the product and continuing with the process. In this case I finished applying the first application of #7 around 9:00 pm and then left the #7 to soak in until the next day. I started wiping the product off then next morning right about 10:00am.

Some will argue if this works or not but my experience is that with a porous single stage paint it does in fact help. One thing for sure it can't hurt.

Paper Test for Capillary Action
If you place a few drops of #7 onto a piece of paper and then monitor it over a few days you will see the oils in the #7 migrate or seep away from the actual drop of product. It does this through capillary action and the same thing can work to your car's paints' advantage if it's a single stage lacquer or enamel paint.

I placed a few drops about the size of a nickel on a piece of standard printer paper around 3:00pm.

The next day I took these pictures at approximately 10:00am, (19 hours later), note how the oils in the drops of #7 have migrated outward via capillary action.

Feeder Oils penetrate or feed the paint
This same effect can take place in a single stage paint but not only will the oils travel horizontally, they will also travel vertically, that they will penetrate downward "into" your car's paint and this is where the term feeder oils comes from as the oils penetrate into or feed the paint. The result is they will condition the paint restoring some level of workability as compared to just working on old dry paint, and they will also bring out the full richness of color, something that will showcase the beauty of your car's paint.




If you're only working on "new" cars, then it's not the right product for you. Not a bad thing, not a good thing, it's all about choosing and using the right product for your specific type of paint.



:xyxthumbs:

 

[Flash Gordon]

Hey guys,

I just filled up last night, and I've always known those blinding overhead florescent lights at the big gas stations are the most unforgiving ways to gauge your car's condition! Well, as I was watching the meter tick away, I saw tons of unsightly hairline scratches and swirls from when I recently had bodywork done (I discussed the guy's horrendous 'workmanship' in another thread here late last year). I never buffed them out because although it's debatable nowadays, I was playing it safe and letting the new paint cure and breathe, and then ended up putting it in storage for the winter.

So, what's the best temporary fix until I can either find a solid full day to bust out the Makita, or afford a new Flex dual-action, to hide and gloss over those defects, before I eventually do a paint correction? I was thinking a couple coats of glaze, topped with a sealant, and then topped with a rich white carnauba wax? Is that close to being something worthwhile, and if so, what products would be best, and any other tips would be hugely appreciated! THANKS

Have you ever heard the country song Pills, Pigtails & Curlyques?

 

[Ohio Detailing]

In all the 3 times I've applied Meg's #7, I've never been able to tell that I applied it. I use other Meg's products and really like them, but with this one, I don't really get why some people rave about it.

This is so great, aside from the money I wasted on this specific product, to hear other people have had the same exact experience as me. I thought I was going crazy. After I applied it, I saw Z-E-R-O difference

I'll have to look into something better for a glaze.

Have you ever heard the country song Pills, Pigtails & Curlyques?

No, but I enjoy country... why do yo ask?

I tried to Google it, and nothing came up that I saw?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I'll have to look into something better for a glaze.

Like I've been posting for decades....


"Find something you like and use it often"


As long as you own new cars with clear coat paints chances are good you'll never need the #7. Now if you get a brand new paint job and you want a non-abrasive polish to make the paint look "pretty" for the first 30 days then the #7 is safe to apply to brand new, fresh paint as are a number of other paint-safe glazes.

Here's one article on the topic,

Fresh Paint - But you can touch it...





Here's another one...

Body Shop Safe Glaze on Fresh Paint - #7 Show Car Glaze


A common procedure for fresh paint is to hand or machine glaze the paint after any wetsanding, cutting and buffing has been performed.

Fresh Paint = Less than 30 days since it was sprayed

In most cases, fresh paint is sanded, buffed and glazed within a few days after being sprayed, before the owner picks up the car. For the glazing process you need to use a product that is "Body Shop Safe", that means there are no ingredients that will contaminate a fresh paint environment and cause surface adhesion problems for the new paint.

One type of surface adhesion problem is called "Fish Eyes" and that's where some type of contaminant remains on the prepped surface at the time the paint is sprayed and the surface tension created by the contaminant prevents paint from sticking to that area, so the paint pile up around the contaminated area and creates a circle without paint and because of the appearance after the paint dries, this type of defect has been given the name... "Fish Eye".


Two of the most well known Body Shop Safe glazes in the refinishing industry are

Meguiar's M07 Show Car Glaze
3M Imperial Hand Glaze


While they do the same job and while 3M has purchased Meguiar's, the formulas are very different and the formula for #7 Show Car Glaze goes back to the 1920's easily.


We had two hood painted just this week, in fact they were sprayed late Wednesday night. I picked them up in my truck on Thursday.


Today is Friday, this means the paint on this hood is less than 48 hours old.

Some people think that you cannot put any type of chemical or product on fresh paint until it's at least 30 days old and they're close... the rule of thumb is to not seal the paint with any type of wax or paint sealant for 30 days.

That doesn't mean you cannot use "Body Shop Safe" products on fresh paint and all across the land in body shops every day there are people pouring all kinds of chemicals on fresh paint and then compounding, polishing and glazing the paint.

As long as the paint is set-up and hardened enough to work on you can start working on it and thus pour body shop safe products on it that enable you perform whatever procedure it is you're doing.

To drive this point home, here are a few pictures of fresh paint, less than 48 hours old being hand glazed.


Fresh paint less than 48 hours old...

3M Imperial Hand Glaze and Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze

Pouring out #7 Show Car Glaze onto brand new fresh paint

Carefully spreading out #7 Show Car Glaze with a clean foam applicator pad

The hood is completely glazed...

Close-up... #7 has an oily sheen...

No need to let the glaze dry, in fact you want to wipe it off right after you apply it and work it in...

Wiped-off and a reflection shot of a bottle of #7 in the glazed paint...

Glazed Fresh Paint...

Reflection shot...

I hope this has shed a little light on fresh paint, glazing and body shop safe products...

 

[Ohio Detailing]

It came out during the time of the Model T, so it's been around longer than most of us posting on this forum. It works great on single stage paint, that's the paint system used on cars until the 1980's, or in other words that's the type of paint that was used on cars for more than twice as long as cars since the 1980's.

Besides that, what you think of the product and how important it is to you depends upon what you're working on...http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

If you're only working on "new" cars, then it's not the right product for you. Not a bad thing, not a good thing, it's all about choosing and using the right product for your specific type of paint.

Mike, the man... the legend! Thank you.

By the way, since I have one of the world's foremost detailing chemical experts in my thread, can you please suggest three-or-so glazes for both hand or buffer use on clear-coat that would be best-in-class for adding outrageous gloss and temporarily hiding swirls and hairline scratches for me to experiment with and find a favorite? THANK YOU!

PS: Something to note, is that after reading your post directly above regarding brand new fresh paint and hand-glazing, you poured the product, liberally, onto the paint itself. When I used #7 Meg's Show Car Glaze last week for example, I applied it to the applicator pad, CONSERVATIVELY, since it has been ingrained into my mind that less is more, so there wasn't a thick coverage like you have pictured, and there wasn't even enough to tell of the oily residue. Perhaps this was also limiting my enjoyment of the product's results. But still, if you could suggest three other glaze products that would produce rich deep gloss, I'd really look into them, someone suggested Black Hole, but I know there are plenty to choose from. I'm mainly looking for something to really fill in and cover defects while enhancing depth!