The #1 Thing Consuming Extra Time For You On a Detail?

vanev

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The #1 thing that consumes extra time for you on a detail?

For me, it is usually wheels.
I have found that it is not uncommon for vehicle owners to go months, even years, without fully cleaning the wheels.

Even worse, most vehicle owners will typically use some form of tunnel wash to wash their vehicles.
The biggest problem with this is in regards to wheels specifically is the wax/sealant option a lot of people choose, then followed by the heated dryer when pulling out of the tunnel wash.

Tunnel washes barely touch the surface in regards to cleaning wheels.
The wax/sealant used will seal the uncleaned brake dust onto the wheels.
Follow that up with the blistering dryer, and you have baked on piles of crud that takes an eternity to fully remove.

An example of this is a vehicle I detailed yesterday.
The plan was a full correction on this Passat.
After the initial wash and decon, it rained off and on the rest of the day, so I was not able to even begin the correction stage.
I wanted to get as much out of the day as I could, so I thought I would get the wheels finished.
Well, three hours later, the wheels were finally finished, then another few minutes or so for adding dressing to the tires, and D156 to the wheels and wheel wells.

I have run into this all summer.
Rarely do I seem to detail wheels that are in moderately good shape.
Most of the vehicles I detail have severe brake dust that takes an eternity to remove, even using wheel acids.

Process yesterday:
Note:
The extensive process was a result of the condition of the wheels and what it took to get to the finished result.
This is more extensive than the normal process for detailing moderately dirty wheels.
It was dark when I finished, so I only have some before pictures.
When I return to finish the vehicle, I will take some after photos of the wheels.


- Pre- clean with Simple Green Crystal.
- Clean with Meg's D101 APC @ 2:1
- Clean with Greased Lightening De-greaser.
- Steam clean.
- Clean with Meg's D140 Wheel Brightener.
- Clean with LA Awesome RTU
- Steam Clean.
- Pre LSP with Meg's D120.
- LSP Meg's D156


Random Pictures:
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Nothing is time consuming when you have the right tools and products,well maybe dog hair.
 
I think if they are giving much trouble, skip the first three cleaners, which are kind of redundant, and start with the wheel brighter. Then follow up with one of the first ones to neutralize it.

If I think it will take more than a typical APC to get them clean, I will use DUB wheel cleaner or Griots heavy duty wheel cleaner. If that doesn't work and I want them cleaner, then I'll switch to a AIO or polish.

I've been wanting to try wheel brighter to see if it works as great as some say, but I don't really like dealing with acid.
 
You need a stronger wheel cleaner than megs and degreaser also.when you have to agitate with any product with a pw time for a new product.The most horrible wheels would be 30 minutes to clean.Without the right tools and products will add crazy time to a detail.But then again I do this everyday.
 
GSKR - When you use acid for wheel cleaning, do you spray on a wet or dry wheel?

I know when I clean the raw aluminum wheels on my big truck it works better if I do them dry, and spray bottom to top using wheel acid. If if spray it on a wet surface I get spots, but I know some of these acid cleaners recommend spraying them on a wet wheel.

This may be just recommended by the manufacturer because they feel it is safer and covers thier but more.
 
I think if they are giving much trouble, skip the first three cleaners, which are kind of redundant, and start with the wheel brighter. Then follow up with one of the first ones to neutralize it.

If I think it will take more than a typical APC to get them clean, I will use DUB wheel cleaner or Griots heavy duty wheel cleaner. If that doesn't work and I want them cleaner, then I'll switch to a AIO or polish.

I've been wanting to try wheel brighter to see if it works as great as some say, but I don't really like dealing with acid.

D140 Wheel Brightener is a fantastic product and should be in every detailer's inventory.
It really does a fantastic job.

In regards to cleaners and process. starting with a wheel acid is just a bad idea.
Wheels need a good general cleaning so you can see what you are working with.
You want acid to clean and remove the contaminants intended, and not waste product on dirt that can be removed otherwise.
As a mobile detailer, or in a shop, you also have to consider the environment, PPE protection, your personal health, etc...
Acid is a last resort, not a starting point.


You need a stronger wheel cleaner than megs and degreaser also.when you have to agitate with any product with a pw time for a new product.The most horrible wheels would be 30 minutes to clean.Without the right tools and products will add crazy time to a detail.But then again I do this everyday.

I am open to suggestion for better products.
The products used are among the best at what they do, and did the job.

I completely doubt you could have cleaned these wheels in 30 minutes.
Maybe you could have gone from start to finish faster than three hours and change, but not start to finish in 30 minutes on the combined tires, wheels, and wheel wells.
You would also have to start with an acid, and that is a general no-no in my book.
Even hydrofloric acid is a somewhat slow process and needing adequate dwell time.
Hydrochloric might work better than hydrofloric, but there is still dwell time to consider, on and off with PPE protection, etc...
 
I first degrease wheel arch tire and rim and rinse,then acid based cleaner.I personally wouldn't use acid on raw aluminum only if I was getting paid to polish them.Acid on raw al will make it clean and etched and ready prepped for polishing.Its always recommend to use acid on wet cool wheels.Its almost frowned upon talking about acid on the forum,but I've been using acid base wheel cleaners and I don't have the patience for anything less.With proper safety you just can't beat the cost and performance.
 
D140 Wheel Brightener is a fantastic product and should be in every detailer's inventory.
It really does a fantastic job.

In regards to cleaners and process. starting with a wheel acid is just a bad idea.
Wheels need a good general cleaning so you can see what you are working with.
You want acid to clean and remove the contaminants intended, and not waste product on dirt that can be removed otherwise.
As a mobile detailer, or in a shop, you also have to consider the environment, PPE protection, your personal health, etc...
Acid is a last resort, not a starting point.




I am open to suggestion for better products.
The products used are among the best at what they do, and did the job.

I completely doubt you could have cleaned these wheels in 30 minutes.
Maybe you could have gone from start to finish faster than three hours and change, but not start to finish in 30 minutes on the combined tires, wheels, and wheel wells.
You would also have to start with an acid, and that is a general no-no in my book.
Even hydrofloric acid is a somewhat slow process and needing adequate dwell time.
Hydrochloric might work better than hydrofloric, but there is still dwell time to consider, on and off with PPE protection, etc...
I completely understand were your coming from as far as acid.The promblem that I'm really trying to clarify is that nobody will pay me to spend a hour on wheels.Ive been using it for 24 years with common sense and a steam pw 30 minutes is not unrealistic .Just stick with megs wheel cleaner and detail the best you can.
 
I completely understand were your coming from as far as acid.The promblem that I'm really trying to clarify is that nobody will pay me to spend a hour on wheels.Ive been using it for 24 years with common sense and a steam pw 30 minutes is not unrealistic .Just stick with megs wheel cleaner and detail the best you can.

I am not arguing with you.
I agree with you in principle on most of your thoughts.
I am willing to spend such time because my rate typically covers that.
I try now to detail only one car in a day, focus on complete details, and do whatever it takes to get the job done in that working day.
Sometimes you just run into curve balls, and wheels are the worst offenders in my world.
 
An I also second the acid for the wheels I'm not spending hours on wheels either, nobody is willing to pay me to do them so I'm not busting my ass on a $300.00 detail that should take 4 to 5 hour to complete. If I where not to use the acid and have to do it the so called "professional way" then that 4 to 5 hours would turn into 6 to 7 hours. Yea I'm not doing that unless I'm paid for it and I'll be that guy to post it on here too lol. Time is money and money is time to me... Rubber gloves is all you need if your not a dumb dumb and if you are a dumb dumb put on a painters mask and safety glasses.
 
I am not arguing with you.
I agree with you in principle on most of your thoughts.
I am willing to spend such time because my rate typically covers that.
I try now to detail only one car in a day, focus on complete details, and do whatever it takes to get the job done in that working day.
Sometimes you just run into curve balls, and wheels are the worst offenders in my world.
maybe some ironx will help speed things along.All of us have one goal in mind,and that's making the customer happy.
 
maybe some ironx will help speed things along.All of us have one goal in mind,and that's making the customer happy.
Have Iron-X.
Did not bring it with me on this detail.
Wish I had.

An I also second the acid for the wheels I'm not spending hours on wheels either, nobody is willing to pay me to do them so I'm not busting my ass on a $300.00 detail that should take 4 to 5 hour to complete. If I where not to use the acid and have to do it the so called "professional way" then that 4 to 5 hours would turn into 6 to 7 hours. Yea I'm not doing that unless I'm paid for it and I'll be that guy to post it on here too lol. Time is money and money is time to me... Rubber gloves is all you need if your not a dumb dumb and if you are a dumb dumb put on a painters mask and safety glasses.

Rubber gloves is all you need?
Hardly.
Maybe when using D140, but if you are using the stronger wheels acids that contain hydrofloric acid, you need full PPE.

Makes no difference how careful you are.
There are factors that are out of your control.
You have to consider the immediate and long term health risks regarding all the products you use, especially when using acids, no matter how minor the acids may be.
You also have to consider run-off and protecting the environment and wild life with all the products you use, hence the tarp on the ground.

I am not willing to do things unprofessionally to save a couple hours on a detail, especially if it harms my health or the environment.
You may consider a rate adjustment to cover your cost.
Honestly man, you might want to take a step back and re-evaluate if this is the right line of work for you.
 
Why does everybody on here think they know everything and that there way is the only way or no way at all
 
Not surprised thats taking you so long..

I'd go straight to wheel brightener.. and if that struggled i'd go to oven cleaner on the barrels..
Neutralise all that then throw some Autosmart Red7 or similar (Iron X) on them and rinse again..
Then sealent.. or whatever LSP the owner wants.

Unless they are required to be coated.. then it'd be a clay and polish in addition..
 
The #1 thing consuming extra time on my mobile details is rolling up my 100ft air line. I freaking hate it. It's the green Flexzilla brand and it kinks so bad that I have to stop and untangle it multiple times while trying to roll it up. I really want to get a reel for it but I'm not sure it will even help because it kinks so badly.
 
The #1 thing consuming extra time on my mobile details is rolling up my 100ft air line. I freaking hate it. It's the green Flexzilla brand and it kinks so bad that I have to stop and untangle it multiple times while trying to roll it up. I really want to get a reel for it but I'm not sure it will even help because it kinks so badly.
acfe4096ac858243c959d30218640dec.jpg


Love mine so far!

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