The 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer

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The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer


The 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product is a way you can grabbing your product on the fly with your rotary buffer in a way that pulls the product under and into the face of the buffing pad instead of splattering it all over the place.

Some people take their pad and simply spread their product out over the paint with the buffer off and then after spreading it out turn the buffer on and start buffing, this works but can also throw splatter all over the place.

The 10 @ 10 Technique not only works but has a cool factor to it that shows anyone watching that you know how to pick up a bead of product like a Pro.

First of all, the term bead in detailing talk beans a line or strip of product. Just want to make sure everyone understands that term.

To pick up your bead of product using the 10 @ 10 Technique, while holding the rotary buffer in your hands, looking at the back of the buffing pad, pretend it's clock. The top is 12:00 O'clock and going clockwise you have the 1, 2, 3, etc. positions on the buffing pad that would correlate with a clock.

What you want to do is bring the rotary buffer up to speed and then lock the trigger into place so you don't have to hold it in the entire time you're buffing.

Next, place the buffing pad just in front of your bead of product at the 10 O'clock position.

10oclock.jpg


The pad should be spinning but not in contact with the paint.

Lightly touch the buffing pad down so the 3 O'clock position is just making contact with the paint and the 10 O'clock position is raised off the paint about 10 degrees.

Now run the buffing pad over the bead of product from right to left drawing the bead in at the 10 O'clock position. (not the 9 O'clock or 11 O'clock posting but the 10 O'clock position).

Since the pad is rotating clockwise, the bead of product will be pulled into and under the pad instead of being thrown away from the pad as splatter.


As soon as you move the polisher past the last portion of the bead of product instantly move the raised portion of the buffing pad so that the entire pad is now flat against the paint and proceed to spread the product out over the area you're going to work.

After the product is spread out, then start working the product against the paint with slow overlapping passes.

I show this technique in this video,


Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels







At our recent Advanced Detailing Class, I helped Tanya to learn how to pick up a bead of product using the rotary buffer. With a little practice you'll be picking up your bead like a Pro!


Tanya is ready to learn the way of the rotary buffer...
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First things first and that's learning the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product...
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Tilt about 10 degrees and run the buffing pad over the bead at the 10 O'clock position with the 3 O'clock position of the pad just lightly against the paint...
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Continue moving the buffing pad over the bead of product at the 10 O'clock position on the buffing pad.
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When you get to the end of the bead of product then lay the pad flat and then spread the product out over the area you're going to work.
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Here's a good picture that shows how Charles has spread his product out over an average size area to work at one time and now he's compound the paint.
Sept19ADVClass083.jpg




Once you master the 10 @ 10 Technique and understand how the technique works, you can then start freestyling and picking your bead of product up anywhere on the buffing pad as long as you do it in such a way that the spinning pad is pulling the product into and under the pad and not throwing it as splatter.

For example, another common way to pick up your bead of product is at the 4 @ 10 Technique.

For this you would be moving the rotary buffer from left to right, with the pad just touching down at the 9 O'clock position and lifting the opposite side about 10 degrees and then running the bead in at the 4 O'clock position.

Since the pad is rotating clockwise, the bead of product will be pulled into and under the pad instead of being thrown away from the pad as splatter.


Remember to clean your pad often using either a Spur or a Pad Washer.

Using a Spur to clean a wool buffing pad to remove spent product and removed paint
Sept19ADVClass097.jpg



Using the System 2000 Pad Washer to clean a wool buffing pad on a DeWALT Rotary Buffer
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:)
 
Will this work with DA and or Flex?

It will with the Flex 3401, in fact I show how to pick up a bead of product using the 4 @ 10 Technique in this video...


How to do a Test Spot using the Flex 3401

The below is a portion taken from this write-up,

1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!


Note: You can swap out different pads and chemicals for your test spot, the important point is to test the products, pads, tools and your technique to one small area first, and then check your results before attempting to buff out the entire car.

It does help to actually lay down a strip of tape of tape and then just work on one side of the tape, this will help you to better see the changes taking place.

Make sure the results from your Test Spot meet your expectations, if they don't then start a thread on this forum and let us know what you're seeing and our online community will do their best to help you tweak your technique and see you through to success!


~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Begin Copy & Paste
~~~~~~~~~~~~~



We're ready to do our test spot and for this we're going to use the Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 with the LC Hydro-Tech foam polishing pad with the Flex 3401 If this isn't removing the swirls fast enough or effectively enough then will stick with the same product but try the more aggressive LC Hydro-Tech Cutting pad.


Center the pad onto the backing plate...
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And then press the pad firmly against the backing plate to fully engage the Velcro.
57TuqChev054.jpg

__________________

Horizontal surfaces like the hood or the trunk lid always work best for the Test Spot. Here we're using the trunk lid and we've applied a piece of painter's tape to separate between the before and after sides for easier and more accurate evaluation.

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Always shake your products well before using them... I like to twist them back in forth at my side...
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Lay down a thin strip of product about 6" to 8" long. You'll tend to use less product as you move around the car and your pad becomes more wet with product so it's less likely to absorb product into itself.
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Unlike a true Rotary Buffer which the pad would rotate clockwise as you look down on it from behind the buffer, the Flex 3401 rotates counterclockwise and as such we're going to pick up our strip of product running the pad across the panel from left to right and running the strip into the pad at the 4 O'Clock position.
(See the YouTube Video below).

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After picking up our bead, we lay the pad flat against the paint and begin making slow, overlapping passes over our test section.
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Try to always have a wet film of product at the end of the buffing cycle as buffing to a complete dry buff might lead to hazing if you lose all lubricity on the surface.
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YouTube Video Performing A Test Spot using the Flex VRG 3401



[video=youtube_share;3CtUaI_8HhE"]YouTube - Performing a "Test Spot" to...[/video]​


:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's another pictorial example with comments on how to pick up your bead of product using the 10 @ 10 Technique from this thread,

Pictures & Comments from September 19th Detailing 102 Class



It's important to wear safety glasses anytime you're operating power tools...
Sept19ADVClass059.jpg



Demonstrating the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product...
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With this technique you run the bead of product into that pad at the 10 O'Clock position on the pad while tilting the pad approximately 10 degrees moving the buffer from right to left...
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When you do this instead of splattering the product outward, the pad will pull the product into into itself and under the pad...
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After you pick up your bead you can then lay your pad flat, spread the product out over the area you're going to work and begin making slow, overlapping passes.
Sept19ADVClass064.jpg




The goal is to remove all of the sanding marks and restore gloss and clarity to the paint. It's okay if there are still swirls left behind as we'll remove those during the polishing step.


Sept19ADVClass072.jpg




:)
 
Since I tend to type for the future...


If down the road as the new 1-Pad Polishing System becomes available, then note that you need to tweak your technique just a little with the cupped or bowl shaped design of these pads.


New: 1-Pad Polishing System from Lake Country


From page 2 of the above thread...

In the video, if you watch I throw a little splatter when I pick up my bead of product using the The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer


New - 1 Pad Polishing System from Lake Country
[video=youtube_share;oHV-yL7htUY] - Mike Phillips Showcases Lake Country's 1-Pad Polishing System at Autogeek.net[/video]


What I learned from using these new pads was that because of their curved, bowl shape, you need to pick up your bed of product at the 9 O'clock position instead of the 10 O'clock position.


Picking up your strip of product at the 10 O'clock position will throw splatter when using the LC 1-Pad System
1pad10at9_001t.jpg



Instead, pick up your bead or strip of product at the 9 O'clock position
1pad10at9_002t.jpg



The reason for this is because only about 6" in diameter of the face of the pad is in contact with the paint, not the entire face. So if you run your buffer over the bead or strip of product like you would normally do using the 10 @ 10 Technique, you'll be missing the bead because there's no foam at that point in contact with the paint.

A little tip for anyone in the future that gets these pads and picks there bead of product up on the fly using the 10 @ 10 Technique.



:)
 
Mike, I've tried the "10 and 10" a couple of times, my walls thank you. I'll stick with the "kissing the finish" technique.
 
Just a basic query, which I have been having for quite sometime. Do you prime the pad before using the 10@10 technique? Or a dry pad will do? I want to try it on my DA so wanted to clarify before going ahead and doing it.


Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
Just a basic query, which I have been having for quite sometime.

Do you prime the pad before using the 10@10 technique?

Or a dry pad will do? I want to try it on my DA so wanted to clarify before going ahead and doing it.


No.

Interestingly, I just received this same question in a Private Message.


Because the pad on a rotary buffer spins in a single rotational direction, if you prime the pad then bring the buffer up to speed you can and will sling out any excess product.

The point of this article was to show you how to get product on your pad and that's by using the 10 @ 10 Technique. Once you master the 10 @ 10 Technique it becomes relative.

I'm pretty sure I explain this in this video....




Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels
[video=youtube_share;gc_umhlote4&hd=1"]Tips for using a Rotary..."..." target="_blank">Tips for using a Rotary..."...[/video]​






You prime pads with the product you're going to use when using dual action polishers.

When using rotary buffers you "can" prime your pad using a wetting agent, but this is really ONLY when using an aggressive or sharp foam cutting pad or wool cutting pad.

Now I do prime the EDGES of a pad when edging a panel, both foam and wool but that's to lubricate the pad to help prevent the potential burning or twisting of paint when buffing on an edge and I have an article for this right here...


Rotary Buffer Tip - Prime the side edges of foam cutting pads


Here's a technique that can save your butt when doing aggressive cutting into curved panels. It was buried in another article of mine written back in 2010.


Anytime you're buffing next to an adjacent panel and it's possible you could run the vertical or side edge of your pad into the paint, lubricate it by working some of the product you're using on the face of the pad onto and into the foam.

This will help to keep from generating too much heat and burning the paint and also in the case of these lower panels, help me to remove some of the sanding marks on the angled section.

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It's this little long thin section I'm trying to improve and protect.

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Picking up just a portion of the bead of product using the 10 @ 10 technique and then working it over a portion of this panel.

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Note the safety glasses... don't want any splatter in my eyes...

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After removing the sanding marks in the front portion of that panel I picked up my bead and tackled the rear portion...
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My personal preference is not handle, if there is a handle I actually prefer a stick handle over a hoop handle as I can quickly and easily either remove it or move it from side to side depending upon how it works best for the panel.

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Before
The paint was mottled. I sanded it flat and then removed my sanding marks.

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After
Much better...

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You do the same thing when using a wool pad that's dry I just don't have the pictures showing this.

Be aware, when you prime the edge of ANY pad on a rotary buffer, be prepared for the pad to sling off any excess product when you first turn the polisher on.

If you have a rotary buffer that dials down to 600 RPM then it's not really an issue is you start out at the low setting.

Also, you can just turn the buffer on and off "a little" to let the pad spin just a little when held against the paint you're going to buff and this will deposit the excess product onto the paint you're going to buff in stead of slinging it all over the place.

A second also, use common sense when priming the edge of the pad, it shouldn't be sloppy messy with too much product.

I also will take my finger and spread product out over the area I'm going to buff to lubricate the paint.


It's all about NOT burning through the paint when buffing intricate and tight areas.


Hope that helps....

:)
 
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