steelwindmachine
New member
- Jan 23, 2017
- 148
- 0
Firstly, let me say that I've never machine polished a vehicle. I've gone as far as doing Iron-X decon, clay bar and then hand polishing with Poli-Seal.
Secondly, I have two daily drivers that sit outside year round. They've both been through machine washes and hand washes in their lives. I've stopped machine washing as of a year ago.
My wife's car is bright silver 2005 Subaru Forester that has never been machine polished, has had a handful of clay bar, Meg's Cleaner/Wax treatments in its life. It has large black plastic body panel trim that I treated with Solution Finish last year. It's doing well and I'll be re-treating this year. The paint has its share of small scratches, swirls, some water and bird poop etching. You can see your reflection in it, but I wouldn't try shaving in it lol.
My car is a 2014 Kia Sorento in a darker, metallic titanium silver. It has a fingernail catching scratch in one of the doors, small scratches here and there and swirls. I've owned it a year and it had previously been a lease by someone in Long Island, NY who had messy kids. I've machine washed it once and hand washed it the rest of the time I've owned it. Last year I did do a full decon, clay and hand polish with the Poli-Seal.
I somewhat recently picked up an HF DA and a 3D Products 5.5" backing plate. I'm on the precipice of buying into LC ThinPro pads and some kind of compound/polish/AIO/LSP product. I need the process to be easy and make sense for my situation. I'm not going for perfection. These will always be daily drivers subjected to all weather, road grime, rain and other outside crap.
So that's the preface to the conversation I just had with Jerry at Duragloss. I've read about Duragloss throughout this site and haven't found a bad comment about the products. I didn't really know much about their products beyond the frequent reference to their part numbers (601, 105, 652, etc.) on this site. I decided to call them and explain my situation and find out what process and products they'd recommend to restore and protect my cars' paint.
He surmised that given the type and age of my paint, more so with the Subaru, that it surely has oxidation and to go through the work of polishing that will just dimish, oxidize and require a repeat of polishing, that having the paint wet sanded and a fresh coat of clear with enough catalyst and hardener would produce a new level of UV and oxidation protection to the paint, give a refreshed gloss to the car and not require as frequent polishing to maintain.
I had never heard this type of recommendation before, but to my mind, particularly on the 2005 Forester, makes a lot of sense.
As for my 2014 Kia, it certainly would benefit from a similar fresh, harder clear coat, but may not be as dire since it's still a relatively young car.
He suggested I then apply a pre-mix of their 601 and 105 to further protect the finish and give a brilliant shine. Or I could use their Pre-Cleaner + 671 + 105/601 mix. If want did want to do some paint correction, use the 671 Swirl Remover or for a bit more aggressive cut, use the 652.
And, use 921 or 951 between washed to prolong protection and revitalize the shine.
So, the new clear coat thing was interesting and not just an outright sell on a ton of compound/polish/protect products that I'll need to repetitively use due to the aged and continuing to age clear coats.
Anyone else put on a new clear or have any notes on Duragloss when it comes to outside living daily drivers?
Either way, it was great to talk to Jerry. He was very informative and helpful!
Secondly, I have two daily drivers that sit outside year round. They've both been through machine washes and hand washes in their lives. I've stopped machine washing as of a year ago.
My wife's car is bright silver 2005 Subaru Forester that has never been machine polished, has had a handful of clay bar, Meg's Cleaner/Wax treatments in its life. It has large black plastic body panel trim that I treated with Solution Finish last year. It's doing well and I'll be re-treating this year. The paint has its share of small scratches, swirls, some water and bird poop etching. You can see your reflection in it, but I wouldn't try shaving in it lol.
My car is a 2014 Kia Sorento in a darker, metallic titanium silver. It has a fingernail catching scratch in one of the doors, small scratches here and there and swirls. I've owned it a year and it had previously been a lease by someone in Long Island, NY who had messy kids. I've machine washed it once and hand washed it the rest of the time I've owned it. Last year I did do a full decon, clay and hand polish with the Poli-Seal.
I somewhat recently picked up an HF DA and a 3D Products 5.5" backing plate. I'm on the precipice of buying into LC ThinPro pads and some kind of compound/polish/AIO/LSP product. I need the process to be easy and make sense for my situation. I'm not going for perfection. These will always be daily drivers subjected to all weather, road grime, rain and other outside crap.
So that's the preface to the conversation I just had with Jerry at Duragloss. I've read about Duragloss throughout this site and haven't found a bad comment about the products. I didn't really know much about their products beyond the frequent reference to their part numbers (601, 105, 652, etc.) on this site. I decided to call them and explain my situation and find out what process and products they'd recommend to restore and protect my cars' paint.
He surmised that given the type and age of my paint, more so with the Subaru, that it surely has oxidation and to go through the work of polishing that will just dimish, oxidize and require a repeat of polishing, that having the paint wet sanded and a fresh coat of clear with enough catalyst and hardener would produce a new level of UV and oxidation protection to the paint, give a refreshed gloss to the car and not require as frequent polishing to maintain.
I had never heard this type of recommendation before, but to my mind, particularly on the 2005 Forester, makes a lot of sense.
As for my 2014 Kia, it certainly would benefit from a similar fresh, harder clear coat, but may not be as dire since it's still a relatively young car.
He suggested I then apply a pre-mix of their 601 and 105 to further protect the finish and give a brilliant shine. Or I could use their Pre-Cleaner + 671 + 105/601 mix. If want did want to do some paint correction, use the 671 Swirl Remover or for a bit more aggressive cut, use the 652.
And, use 921 or 951 between washed to prolong protection and revitalize the shine.
So, the new clear coat thing was interesting and not just an outright sell on a ton of compound/polish/protect products that I'll need to repetitively use due to the aged and continuing to age clear coats.
Anyone else put on a new clear or have any notes on Duragloss when it comes to outside living daily drivers?
Either way, it was great to talk to Jerry. He was very informative and helpful!
