The Notorious Sticky Clear

Lasthope05

Lasthope05

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I was working 09 G37 today with this new paint and it was a total pain. I got it done with M105(old forumla)/wool on heavily damaged areas followed up with SIP/white then 106ff/black all rotary. The M105 worked perfectly since the older formula cut fast with out heating up the paint but I had lots of trouble with SIP and 106ff gumming up on me. I tried every product in my arsenal and they all acted the same but stuck with SIP and 106ff since they did not gum as bad as the others. So those of you who have worked on the new self healing paint how are you dealing with it?
 
Did you try any of the oilier polishes like M205, Optimum, UF, etc? I would have thought those would work best.
 
I have them and tried them all. They all still gummed up and gave me crazy buffer hop. The Menz line actually has much more oils then the others do.
 
Lasthope05 said:
I was working 09 G37 today with this new paint and it was a total pain.

So those of you who have worked on the new self healing paint how are you dealing with it?
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I have not worked on self-healing paints that I know of but my good friend and Pro Detailer Lenny House has worked on one before and I don't think you could pay him to work on another if the goal is a flawless, swirl free finish.

He actually did a lot of footwork contacting the dealership and then the manufacture and had a horrible experience with the owner and the car dealership.

I'll send the link to this thread to Lenny and see if he would be so kind to chime in.

It's time for car manufactures to start painting cars with paint that the AVERAGE person can work on, not just specialized detailers and it's time they started putting more clear on the car, not just a minimum to save manufacturing costs.

:)
 
You need to use a DA on those sticky clears. Rotaries heat the paint too much which makes it sticky. It heals itself from sunlight(heat). The DA won't generate that much heat.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I have not worked on self-healing paints that I know of but my good friend and Pro Detailer Lenny House has worked on one before and I don't think you could pay him to work on another if the goal is a flawless, swirl free finish.

He actually did a lot of footwork contacting the dealership and then the manufacture and had a horrible experience with the owner and the car dealership.

I'll send the link to this thread to Lenny and see if he would be so kind to chime in.

It's time for car manufactures to start painting cars with paint that the AVERAGE person can work on, not just specialized detailers and it's time they started putting more clear on the car, not just a minimum to save manufacturing costs.

:)
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This is the first one I've come across and probably wont be the last one either. I hope your friend Lenny can chime in on this topic a little more. And yes Mike, it was black.
wall.gif
.. haha


loudog2 said:
You need to use a DA on those sticky clears. Rotaries heat the paint too much which makes it sticky. It heals itself from sunlight(heat). The DA won't generate that much heat.
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I didnt bring my PC to the job because I rarely ever touch it anymore. I guess I'll give the PC a try the next time he gives me a call. The thing is, I never generated that much heat. It was always just warm to the touch.
 
loudog2 said:
You need to use a DA on those sticky clears. Rotaries heat the paint too much which makes it sticky. It heals itself from sunlight(heat). The DA won't generate that much heat.
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I would go with at least the flex if you don't wanna take a week to correct a door, but yes the DA is the only way to go on the Sticky clear coats.
 
I'm sure some new polishes will be designed for this purpose.
 
wfedwar said:
I'm sure some new polishes will be designed for this purpose.
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I talked with a couple of chemists that evaluated this coating and neither of them thought this type of rubbery coating would ever lend itself well to being abraded.

Lenny told me he tracked down a service bulletin so I'll try to contact him and see if he can share what it recommended.


:)
 
Just a couple of thoughts:

What cars currently use the self healing paint?

I wonder what claying will do to the finish?

Definitely not a car you want to do paint correction on or wax in the sun.
 
I can't wait to see what Lenny has to say because it's one of the things that put me off getting a V36 Skyline.

There was great discussion about it on one of the local Skyline forums and people had found many problems with caring for the paint.
 
I have found the 3M line, especially UF with the UK pads to work very well. It's the only thing I can use on my paint with a rotary. Menzerna and Meguiars polishes all heat up the paint immediately, even when using no pressure and as little as 600 rpm's, resulting in pad hop, squealing, and gumming.
 
Infiniti is dropping it on the 2010 models, so it looks like the experiment is over.
 
I read that all you have to do to correct "self healing paint" is pour warm water on it... LOL, I am very curious what will come of this technology.
 
Sunstealer said:
Infiniti is dropping it on the 2010 models, so it looks like the experiment is over.
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I saw that when the features of the 2010 G37 sedan came out. I'm very happy to see that. I was going to look elsewhere for my next car if they still had it.
 
A4 1.8tqm said:
I read that all you have to do to correct "self healing paint" is pour warm water on it... LOL, I am very curious what will come of this technology.
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Haha, I guess in theory all you **should** have to do to remove swirls is leave it in the sun (or hot water). But somehow, I don't quite think this holds true.
 
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