Things to watch out for when Engine Cleaning/Detailing

[AudiTTman]

Hey guys, just curious on some of the things i should cover up and watch out for when I detail my engine. Do you treat turbo charged engines in a specific way? Also, any quality products for engine cleaning that can break up some nasty, sandy sludge lol? I put a flashlight down in the bay and it was in need of a serious clean

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Because modern cars have some pretty expensive components under the hood that could be damaged by exposure to chemicals and/or water, here's the best advice I prefer to offer...


How to use a Discussion Forum to Detail an Engine



I'm always surprised the above thread doesn't get more traffic or more comments but if you read it, and think about it, it makes good sense and one thing for sure, if I were going to clean and detail the engine compartment on a new car, especially if I'm going to be spraying degreasers and then using high pressure blasts of water to rinse the grime off, the first thing I would do is take my own advice in the article above.


Here's the link to the specific thread where I shared how I clean dirty engine compartments but note most of the engine detailing and engine compartment cleaning I've done is when tackling older vehicles with years and even decades of SLUDGE build-up. I don't take pictures of all these engine compartment clean-up jobs but I do have a few of a 1959 Cadillac and a 1960 Cadillac that I did that I can dig up.

Here's the link to my pictures on CorvetteForum

Engine compartment cleaning techniques, products and tools question.


A guy on CorvetteForum who goes by the name TOGWT posted this recently and since it's pretty good I'll just copy and paste it here and give him credit. Where he got it who knows... but I don't steal other people's work, (writing), and claim it as my own.

Protection of Electrical Components

The most important electrical components are sealed ‘water resistant’, that is to say against low pressure, water splashing encountered in the course of daily driving conditions. As long as you avoid directing a strong stream of water (or a pressure washer at close range) directly into these components, you will be fine.

You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays (water deterrent, formula 40(WD-40)) or water.

• Alternator
• Alarm Housing
• Intercooler
• Battery terminals (if not covered already)
• Induction kit cone (if you have one)
• Coil packs
• Electronic control units (ECU)
• On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) port
• Air intake systems (exposed air filters) can be covered with plastic wrap and a rubber band

Notes:

1. This is not an exhaustive list, nor is it marquee specific, if in doubt use a water repellent (WD-40) and exercise common sense

2. Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mold and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.

3. For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash.

Be sure to update us on what you learn about cleaning your specific engine compartment, (if there's anything interesting to look out for), how the project turns out and for sure... some before and after pictures.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

On the technique of using Saran Wrap and Tin Foil, I will tend to use both, not just one or the other. First wrap anything you want to protect with Saran Wrap or even a plastic bag of some sort and then encase and custom mold a few sheets of aluminum foil around it. Aluminum foil is easy to custom mold and will form around a component locking the plastic film of protection tight. Then, take the extra step of placing plastic or even tape around the tinfoil to secure it so it doesn't spray apart and off the component. I use painter's tape for this.

 

[CharlesW]

Cleaning an engine compartment has never caused me any problems in recent years, but I don't use a pressure washer and I don't spray directly on electrical components.

Two things I have heard.

1. Vehicles with HID headlights have ballasts that can be damaged by spraying them. Expensive ballasts! Read that on a forum somewhere.

2. Some European vehicles have components under the hood that don't react well to being sprayed directly. This information came from a VW dealership that recommended against anything other than wiping down with a rag and degreaser. They even recommended spraying the degreaser on only the rag, not directly on the engine components.

My story on older vehicles pertains to a 1965 GTO Tri-Power I purchased new.
DIY Quarter Washes, (Yes, 5 minutes for a quarter), were all the rage and I kept the engine compartment spotless on that car. Probably pressure washed it every 2 weeks.
I started replacing a few electrical items after a year or two. Voltage regulator, horn relay, headlight relay are three I remember. After replacing several items,I took one of them apart to see what kind of junk GM was using.
The inside was so corroded and rusty, I'm surprised it didn't short out.
Evidently I had driven water past the seal into the interior of the parts with the pressure washer. Not a good thing to do so I quit pressure washing engines.

I have also read that pressure washers can get past the seals on various motorcycle parts so I don't pressure wash my motorcycle either.

 

[Shade Tree]

I will normally use either tin foil or a ziplock type bag to cover any wiring or circuitry that may be exposed before using the pressure washer or degreasing the engine bay.

If using a pressure washer; it is best to NOT concentrate on any one area for an extended amount of time. Meaning, the longer that area has a steady water flow to it the more susceptible it is to water damage.

Always use the lowest setting from your pressure washer. Chances are you'll still have plenty of pressure to do the job with great results.

Be sure to use a brush in & around the more delicate areas rather than relying on the water to remove the grime on its own.

Many times it may be best when working on both new & older vehicles to allow the engine to remain running while pressure washing the engine bay. The engine may bog down at times depending on where you're washing and this will be a good indication/warning that you need to move from that area.

Older vehicles may not start after the washing. If this is the case then most likely the coil & plugs have gotten some water keeping them from sparking. Blow all of the settled water out of those areas and dry as best as possible. This will usually be enough.

 

[SkateForGirl]

Watch out around the coilpacks.
My friend being the idiot he whiped his motor down with soap and water then lightly sprayed it down with a hose :doh:
Burned all the coilpacks out haha.

 

[Jossy92]

Here's the link to my pictures on CorvetteForum

Engine compartment cleaning techniques, products and tools question.

I went to the link and found this:

"For what you want to do you want to use a spray and wipe product with enough degreasing power to loosen and remove the ... oil film ... without worrying about staining any surface of dulling any surface down....

One product you might look into is Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer. It's designed to clean road grime off wheels by misting and wiping and would probably offer more cleaning power than a paint spray detailer."

 

[SRHTX]

Well, here is the my favorite (not Im the MAN) '89 Jaguar XJS convertable that I need to do a 100% detail on. It has sat infront on my house for about two weeks. I took it bacl to his office this afternoon where I only have his '02 Lexus SC 430. Doing a detail on the Jaguar is not a problem EXCEPT I'm worried about detailing the engine.

I know some of you have done the engines on these V-12 Jags before. Give me your ideas of concerns again please!!!!! My usual way of doing engines is with Amazing Roll-Off and dressing it with Stoners More Shine. I will not use full-force with the pressure washer.

 

[Showroom Shine]

Thanks alot for all the info on engine detailing. There are things on these newer vehicles that can't take the water. I had a 1992 Cadillac Seville that I made the mistake of using my pressure washer on. Cost $200 to repair a module that controls reverse lights and gear shifting. I just bought the wifey a 2007 Lexus ES350. If you have ever popped the hood on one of these vehicles. You will see that everything is covered, except the windshield washer fluid refill. So these types of engines are alot easier to detail. Thanks again Mike and friends!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's an engine compartment I degreased, stripped the firewall to bare metal, rebuilt the front-end, lowered the front-end, new seam seal and then painted...

1960 Cadillac 4-Door Sedan Deville

Parked on the other side of the 1960 Cadillac is a 1959 Cadillace Series 62 2-door Coupe

 

[DARK HORSE]

Here's an engine compartment I degreased, stripped the firewall to bare metal, rebuilt the front-end, lowered the front-end, new seam seal and then painted...

1960 Cadillac 4-Door Sedan Deville

Sweet! I want you to come over and help me detail my engine compartment