Thinking Of Menzerna??hmmmmmm

trhland

trhland

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im thinking of trying menzerna but have a quistion? whats the least abrasive polish they have? the final polish? or the nano? im confused theres so many polishes .
 
what should i start with ? my paint is in very good shape if that helps
 
get the final polish or micropolish ... both are nice offerings and work well alone on well prepped finishes. Also using 106FF on a finishing pad works well also and adds just a little more bite.
 
the 106ff is the best finishing polish I've used to date.. It really brings the gloss up to a whole different level vs anything else I've used. Not much bite though.
 
the 106 ff is the real deal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
can i use the 106 with a medium foam pad?and if that polish isnt abrasive enough what can i step up too? thanks
 
I typically do my correction with something else... Usually SIP and then finish with 106 on a white pad.. 106 will without a doubt knock out some light swirls, but its really faster and easier to use something else for the heavier correction. My experience at least with it.
 
DantheMan said:
I typically do my correction with something else... Usually SIP and then finish with 106 on a white pad.. 106 will without a doubt knock out some light swirls, but its really faster and easier to use something else for the heavier correction. My experience at least with it.
Click to expand...
ok so the 106 is really ment with a final finishing pad then ? ok thanks
 
on the menzeran chart it has the micro polish as the least abrasive then nano then final polish ?should i go that direction dam this is confusing to many polishes
 
Menzerna Products:
Like polishing glass, the smoother you make the paint or clear coat, the more pronounced the reflection. The limiting factor of any polish is the size of the abrasive particle used. The smaller the abrasive, the smoother you can burnish the finish. The very fine tolerance of abrasive particle size used by Menzerna polishes that allows for a consistent breakdown and thus consistent micro marring free finish when used.

These diminishing abrasive polishes are foam pad ‘dependant’ as far as its paint correction / renovation abilities are concerned and they appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ (a very slightly distilled water dampened foam pad (do not use a quick detailer (QD) as the wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives) Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the polish using the foam pad with the machine off.

This coats the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or hazing the finish, then place the foam pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any portion of the foam pad dry as this will produce hazing (dry polishing). The use of a duel level foam pad / polish system will really heighten the paint finish shine. Remember to use the least abrasive first before ‘stepping-up’ to the next abrasive level.

Diminishing abrasives require friction heat to activate them; they will not finish up dry, but will always have a hazy film to them. Polish to a haze’- when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring (this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it)

These polishes were designed to work in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line, so be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden) It should also be noted that these polishes use an oil in water emulsion for lubrication, if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection or a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water.

Key - Cut / Gloss = 0 - 5

1. Power Gloss (POS 34A) PG will remove 1000 grit, cut 5.0 - gloss 1.5 (LC Foamed Wool, Yellow or Orange CCS foam pads)
2. Final Polish (PO85U) FP will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0 - gloss 4.0 (White LC CCS foam pad)

Both Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and Nano Polish (106FF) were formulated for Ceramiclear paints, the micro diminishing abrasives are milled finer and much harder, and also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% were as the other polishes contain 3% abrasives. All Menzerna’s polishes can be used on any isocyanate polyurethane (conventional clear coats)

3. Super Intensive Polish (PO83Q) SIP will remove 2000 grit, cut 3.5 – gloss 3.0 (primed Orange LC CCS foam pads)
4. Nano Polish (105FF) will remove 2500 grit, for light surface marring and / or surface finishing, cut 2.5 - gloss 5.0 for LSP ready use a primed White LC CCS foam pad
5. Final Finish Polish (PO106FA) the up-rated version of P0106FF, will remove 2500 - 3000 grit, for surface finishing, cut: 2.5 – gloss 5.0 contains very finely milled micro diminishing abrasives that have a sharp edge that can cut ceramic clear coats as well as the more conventional clear coats, for LSP ready use a primed White LC CCS foam pad



Hope this helps - :cheers:
 
Last edited:
APO 60 has also some fine cut with a small amount of polish and seals at the same time, works great.

But if you buy ONE buy the 106ff, thats a killer
 
TOGWT said:
Menzerna Products:
Like polishing glass, the smoother you make the paint or clear coat, the more pronounced the reflection. The limiting factor of any polish is the size of the abrasive particle used. The smaller the abrasive, the smoother you can burnish the finish. The very fine tolerance of abrasive particle size used by Menzerna polishes that allows for a consistent breakdown and thus consistent micro marring free finish when used.

These diminishing abrasive polishes are foam pad ‘dependant’ as far as its paint correction / renovation abilities are concerned and they appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ (a very slightly distilled water dampened foam pad (do not use a quick detailer (QD) as the wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives) Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the polish using the foam pad with the machine off.

This coats the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or hazing the finish, then place the foam pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any portion of the foam pad dry as this will produce hazing (dry polishing). The use of a duel level foam pad / polish system will really heighten the paint finish shine. Remember to use the least abrasive first before ‘stepping-up’ to the next abrasive level.

Diminishing abrasives require friction heat to activate them; they will not finish up dry, but will always have a hazy film to them. Polish to a haze’- when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring (this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it)

These polishes were designed to work in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line, so be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden) It should also be noted that these polishes use an oil in water emulsion for lubrication, if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection or a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water.

Key - Cut / Gloss = 0 - 5

1. Power Gloss (POS 34A) PG will remove 1000 grit, cut 5.0 - gloss 1.5 (LC Foamed Wool, Yellow or Orange CCS foam pads)
2. Final Polish (PO85U) FP will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0 - gloss 4.0 (White LC CCS foam pad)

Both Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and Nano Polish (106FF) were formulated for Ceramiclear paints, the micro diminishing abrasives are milled finer and much harder, and also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% were as the other polishes contain 3% abrasives. All Menzerna’s polishes can be used on any isocyanate polyurethane (conventional clear coats)

3. Super Intensive Polish (PO83Q) SIP will remove 2000 grit, cut 3.5 – gloss 3.0 (primed Orange LC CCS foam pads)
4. Nano Polish (105FF) will remove 2500 grit, for light surface marring and / or surface finishing, cut 2.5 - gloss 5.0 for LSP ready use a primed White LC CCS foam pad
5. Final Finish Polish (PO106FA) the up-rated version of P0106FF, will remove 2500 - 3000 grit, for surface finishing, cut: 2.5 – gloss 5.0 contains very finely milled micro diminishing abrasives that have a sharp edge that can cut ceramic clear coats as well as the more conventional clear coats, for LSP ready use a primed White LC CCS foam pad



Hope this helps - :cheers:
Click to expand...
wow thank you very much for that thanks!!!!
 
106ff
106ff
106ff

hehe everywhere i go this is preferred...judgin by those stang pics...i had to order it
i think you should try it! i will post pix iwth my experience..

Depending on the car a series of events might go like this
Clay
SSR3
106ff
WG DGPS
Souvern
Souvern
Souvern
Souvern

i really want to see what it would be like if i layer the souvern...esp if the 106ff gets rid of those microscratches/swirls.......im soo excited

bet on black =) bet on 106ff
get r done
 
TOGWT said:
Menzerna Products:
Like polishing glass, the smoother you make the paint or clear coat, the more pronounced the reflection. The limiting factor of any polish is the size of the abrasive particle used. The smaller the abrasive, the smoother you can burnish the finish. The very fine tolerance of abrasive particle size used by Menzerna polishes that allows for a consistent breakdown and thus consistent micro marring free finish when used.

These diminishing abrasive polishes are foam pad ‘dependant’ as far as its paint correction / renovation abilities are concerned and they appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ (a very slightly distilled water dampened foam pad (do not use a quick detailer (QD) as the wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives) Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the polish using the foam pad with the machine off.

This coats the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or hazing the finish, then place the foam pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any portion of the foam pad dry as this will produce hazing (dry polishing). The use of a duel level foam pad / polish system will really heighten the paint finish shine. Remember to use the least abrasive first before ‘stepping-up’ to the next abrasive level.

Diminishing abrasives require friction heat to activate them; they will not finish up dry, but will always have a hazy film to them. Polish to a haze’- when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring (this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it)

These polishes were designed to work in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line, so be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden) It should also be noted that these polishes use an oil in water emulsion for lubrication, if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection or a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water.

Key - Cut / Gloss = 0 - 5

1. Power Gloss (POS 34A) PG will remove 1000 grit, cut 5.0 - gloss 1.5 (LC Foamed Wool, Yellow or Orange CCS foam pads)
2. Final Polish (PO85U) FP will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0 - gloss 4.0 (White LC CCS foam pad)

Both Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and Nano Polish (106FF) were formulated for Ceramiclear paints, the micro diminishing abrasives are milled finer and much harder, and also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% were as the other polishes contain 3% abrasives. All Menzerna’s polishes can be used on any isocyanate polyurethane (conventional clear coats)

3. Super Intensive Polish (PO83Q) SIP will remove 2000 grit, cut 3.5 – gloss 3.0 (primed Orange LC CCS foam pads)
4. Nano Polish (105FF) will remove 2500 grit, for light surface marring and / or surface finishing, cut 2.5 - gloss 5.0 for LSP ready use a primed White LC CCS foam pad
5. Final Finish Polish (PO106FA) the up-rated version of P0106FF, will remove 2500 - 3000 grit, for surface finishing, cut: 2.5 – gloss 5.0 contains very finely milled micro diminishing abrasives that have a sharp edge that can cut ceramic clear coats as well as the more conventional clear coats, for LSP ready use a primed White LC CCS foam pad



Hope this helps - :cheers:
Click to expand...

You need to put this into print and SELL IT!!! If its already in print, point me to it, I have my $$ in hand!
 
I have read to not prime the pad with water or pad conditioner and also read to prime pad with water or pad conditioner. Which way should I go? So far I have only let the pad become primed with the product.
 
Priming the pad with distilled water saves product and gives a slightly more agressive cut.
 
FMINUS said:
You need to put this into print and SELL IT!!! If its already in print, point me to it, I have my $$ in hand!
Click to expand...

“Automotive Detailing Inside & Out, A Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist"– by Jon Miller aka TOGWT™

I hope to have it for sale on my website TOGWT.com end September - Early October

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It's not just a How-To but a Why as well, but if you read any of my forum posts / threads you'll know what I mean

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i prime the pad every new secion with XMT conditioner worked great for me.
 
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