trouble using wool buffing pad with rotary

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budinthemud

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I am having a hard time removing any defects with my rotary. I used a wool buffing pad with m105 today to remove heavy oxidation from a 97 toyota corrola and nothing was happening except for the compound drying up on me. My method is putting polish on surface, spread it with buffer, then work it in using 1500rpm. Sometimes i spray water to reactivate polish but still nothing. I have to switch to my pc and that does the job using CG orange pad and m105. I could just stick with pc but i want to speed up process with rotary as the vehicle has a lot of heavy oxodation on hood. I really want to learn the rotary but am having a hard time. Any help will be awesome.
 
I've been in that situations many times .Is that Corolla single stage if so use mike p method of nourishing the paint first by hand with #7 hand glaze.M105 is finicky to work with on some projects ,as you mentioned product drying on you.Dont use to much product in one area make sure the pad is clean.Dont apply to much pressure maybe slow the rpm on rotary a little is the paint cool are you inside or out side.Water will make it worse gummy and sticky.There was a thread 4 years ago on Thursday night extreme project gentleman my friend Renee tried using baby oil with great result.M 105 doesn't work for me being mobile and 205 .So maybe you can purchase a different compound to avoid these headaches if your budget allows.with out seeing the car I would go for uber compound by Wolfgang and take the polish you were gonna use and use a dime of it ,with uber for extended working time ,Also you make want to use a polishing wool pad instead of cutting pad hope this helps.
 
budinthemud said:
I am having a hard time removing any defects with my rotary.

I used a wool buffing pad with m105 today to remove heavy oxidation from a 97 toyota corrola and nothing was happening except for the compound drying up on me.
Click to expand...

A 1997 Toyota Corrola would have a basecoat/clearcoat finish. The exception would be "maybe" if it's white it could be single stage.

A lot of people confuse clearcoat failure with oxidation. The most common places for clearcoat failure are the horizontal panels, i.e. the hood, trunk and roof.

IF this car has clearcoat failure to the point the basecoat is exposed the basecoat paint will not polish to a high gloss. It's flat like primer. No amount of compounding will make it shiny again.

A wool pad on a rotary plus M105 is what I would consider an aggressive approach to restoring paint so if this is not working it might not be the product, the pad, the tool or you it might be the paint.

Also, my guess is that if you're trying to compound basecoat paint or even dead clearcoat paint, the compound is going to dry up faster and be difficult to work with.

Do you have a picture of the panel you're working on?




Here's an article I wrote on this topic,

The Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive


ClearcoatFailure001.jpg
 
I clean the pad with spur tool but could it be the pad? I bought it at harbor freight to try out before investing in a more expensive one. Because last week i removed orange peel from my 97 honda accord and the wool pad removed the sanding marks. I'll try rubbing it with #7 to see what happens. Thanks for advice.
 
Certain areas of hood does have clear coat failure but i will post picture later as vehicle is not mine.
 
budinthemud said:
Certain areas of hood does have clear coat failure but i will post picture later as vehicle is not mine.
Click to expand...


The only honest repair for a car with clearcoat failure is to repaint the car or the affected panel.

Be careful when detailing cars for money and a customer brings you a car with clearcoat failure. If some areas are failing it's just a matter of time before the rest of the paint goes bad. At least on the horizontal panels.

IF this if for a friend that's one thing, if this is for a customer next time consider explaining to the customer the paint job is too far gone to safe and turn down the job.


I cover paint condition categories in my how-to book and also in this article


Paint Condition Categories


You're working on paint in categories #10 and #11


:dunno:
 
You don't have a problem with your rotary and wool pad, that paint is beyond what any product or process can do, short of refinishing.

Bringing that paint back to life with polishes is the equivalent of fixing a spun rod bearing with an oil additive.

Chalk this one up as a learning experience.
 
Okay thanks thats all i need to know lol appreciate all the advice
 
2black1s said:
You don't have a problem with your rotary and wool pad, that paint is beyond what any product or process can do, short of refinishing.

Bringing that paint back to life with polishes is the equivalent of fixing a spun rod bearing with an oil additive.

Chalk this one up as a learning experience.
Click to expand...

Wait, I wasted my money on Greased Lightening?
 
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