Trunk Lid Heavily Scratched - 2011 Civic, Nighthawk Black Pearl

[Tim711]

I’m working on a friend’s daily driven Nighthawk Black Pearl 2011 Civic. The trunk was heavily scratched from a box, please see the photos attached. I have seen many civics of this generation, this one included, experience clear coat failure on the flat surfaces such as the roof. Therefore, I want to correct it the best I can with clear cost preservation being the most important.

I have done 4 section passes using a Rupes LHR 75E Mini with a white Rupes pad and Sonax Perfect Finish. This removed some scratches and the majority of the swirls. Maybe I could have used a yellow pad but I wanted to take the least aggressive approach and I believe this is soft paint. I’m looking for advice; should I leave it at that, do more passes, or a different combo.? (have other supplies)

Thanks for the help and let me know if you prefer to have more photos.

First photo; washed and clayed
Second; only trunk lid polished


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[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

First, I would talk it over with the owner and find out what he has to say about the outcome. If he is ok with it, finish the rest of it, protect it, and call it a day. If he wants more than that then you guys can go from there.

IMO, Given the severity of the damage I would step it up a notch or two if need be. Then polish out and protect with a durable LSP. If you dont do the entire car with the LSP, id venture to say the non protected parts will have paint issues before the part you corrected.

The biggest issue with soft paint and failure is the owners washing with harsh soap such as dawn as they dont know any better and the vehicle sitting out side 24/7. Thats whats causing clear coat failure.

 

[TTQ B4U]

Most important aspect here is paint thickness. Honda's are typically pretty soft and thin as it is. Those are pretty harsh scratches and thus I wouldn't expect too much. However, I would highly suggest a paint thickness gauge before anything, especially given it's age and who knows if or how many other times it's seen a polisher.

 

[Tim711]

First, I would talk it over with the owner and find out what he has to say about the outcome. If he is ok with it, finish the rest of it, protect it, and call it a day. If he wants more than that then you guys can go from there.

IMO, Given the severity of the damage I would step it up a notch or two if need be. Then polish out and protect with a durable LSP. If you dont do the entire car with the LSP, id venture to say the non protected parts will have paint issues before the part you corrected.

The biggest issue with soft paint and failure is the owners washing with harsh soap such as dawn as they dont know any better and the vehicle sitting out side 24/7. Thats whats causing clear coat failure.

I agree, I will present photos or have my friend come over. From my knowledge they don’t wash or protect the car regularly or ever and I hope to help change their ways.

However, I want some advice so that I know if we have the option to correct further safely. That way I can keep them well informed so they can can assess how they would like to handle it with the inherent risk. I also feel like I could possibly step it up a notch or two but with my experience and knowledge I didn’t want to go in blind, so I’m looking for advice/guidance.

Most important aspect here is paint thickness. Honda's are typically pretty soft and thin as it is. Those are pretty harsh scratches and thus I wouldn't expect too much. However, I would highly suggest a paint thickness gauge before anything, especially given it's age and who knows if or how many other times it's seen a polisher.

I did some spot checks with my PosiTest DFT-C paint thickness gauge on the area of the trunk that I only washed and clayed and then the area I did 4 section passes with Perfect Finish on a white rupes pad (no IPA used yet).

Wash & Clayed; 100, 104, 107, 107, 109, 109, 111
4 Section Passes (No IPA Yet); 95, 98, 99, 102, 105, 106, 106, 108,

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Be sure to read this...

When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?

 

[Tim711]

Be sure to read this...

When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?

Here's what I do....

I start with a Test Spot and dial in my "system". Your system is your tool, pad, product and process. For me, most of the time it's the BEAST, LC pads, one of many great compounds and a simple overlapping, crosshatch pattern of 8 section passes.

I do this Test Spot on EVERY car I detail. After doing this simple process I wipe off the residue and inspect the results. In most cases, I'm happy. And if I'm happy - I simply duplicate this process over the rest of the car. I start at the top and work my way down. I divide larger panels into smaller sections. I CHANGE OUT MY PADS OFTEN. And I always inpsect my towels before use.

Thanks so much Mike for directing me to that particular thread of yours.

I would like to apply your approach outlined above. I have currently done 4 section passes on an area just smaller (10”x19”=190in[SUP]2[/SUP]) than your recommended size of a microfiber towel (16”x16”=256in[SUP]2[/SUP]). My system was a Rupes LHR75E, White Rupes pad, Sonax Perfect Finish, 3 pea sized drops, 4.5 speed, about 10-15lbs pressure, crosshatch pattern of 4 section passes.

Comparing your system mentioned above, it seems to me that if I want to use the same approach, I could attempt 4 more section passes with the system.

Do you feel I’m am making a proper observation/adjustment on how to proceed with your approach?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

This really looks bad,

Did your friend tell you how the scratches were inflicted so horribly into the paint?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks so much Mike for directing me to that particular thread of yours.

I would like to apply your approach outlined above. I have currently done 4 section passes on an area just smaller (10”x19”=190in[SUP]2[/SUP]) than your recommended size of a microfiber towel (16”x16”=256in[SUP]2[/SUP]).

My system was a Rupes LHR75E, White Rupes pad, Sonax Perfect Finish, 3 pea sized drops, 4.5 speed, about 10-15lbs pressure, crosshatch pattern of 4 section passes.

I like the RUPES pads and their WHITE foam pads are great finishing pads for most projects. They offer little to no cut.

Comparing your system mentioned above, it seems to me that if I want to use the same approach, I could attempt 4 more section passes with the system.

Do you feel I’m am making a proper observation/adjustment on how to proceed with your approach?

Yes. In fact, if you have any other pad that is more aggressive, I would try that.

Honda Nighthawk Pearl paint is soft, at least the Honda I owned that had this paint was soft and most of the comments I've seen over the years about this paint state it's soft. So "yes" you do want to approach carefully. That said, the white foam pad you're using is a FINISHING pad and you could easily get away with using a "polishing" pad.

Do you have the RUPES Yellow pad? If so, try it. You might even start with the green or blue pad and then finish with the white pad.

When done, share the below article with you friend and suggest they be more careful with their car's thin paint moving forward. I would go so far as to have them hold a Post-it Note between their finger and their thumb and make them wrap their brain around how THIN the Post-it Note is and then stress the clearcoat layer of paint on their car is THINNER than the Post-it Note. This usually is a real EYEBALL OPENER for the masses.


Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips