Ultra Soft Clear Coat?! Tips Tricks?!

SeaJay's

SeaJay's

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I'm in the process of doing a full paint correction on a 66 Vette Stingray. It's black of course! So, the correction process is going very slowly as I expected. The paint is extremely hard to correct which I already know about Vettes. However, the clear on this car is the softest I've ever come across. The car had a full frame off restoration done 3 years ago. The owner then brought it to a local shop to have some motor work done, and the guy at this shop decided to wash and attempt to buff it out. Let's just say that this car is COVERED in holograms. Here is a pic of the hood...sorry for the crappy pic I took it on my iPhone.

photo.jpg


Anyway, after messing around with different producst, pads, etc to find the right combo I finally settled on my Flex using the orange compressor pads and WG Total swirl remover, followed up by Menz PO85rd on a greed LC CCS pad on my PC. I initially went with the white pad but was getting tick marks.

Anyway, now I'm having the issue that when I remove the PO85rd, I'm putting slight scratches back into the paint when I wipe. I'm using the Sasquatch MF's from CG which are the softest MF's I have. Even being very gentle and not putting any pressure down they are still leaving slight marks. It's driving me absolutely insane.

I've tried using some ONR diluted to quick detailer to assist in removing the product, but even that isn't working.

Any tips or suggestions on how I can keep this from happening. I'm scared I'm going to do all this work and then when I do my final wash to remove all the polishing oils that I'm going to end up with a surface that isn't flawless.

As always I appreciate all the help!
 
any way to bring the temp down by running an AC in an enclosed space?

Maybe wrap your softest MF around a new grout sponge for further cushioning and to minimize pressure points?

I've never used any of these suggestions just trying to brainstorm here. Are you going to put a coating on it afterwards?

Good luck man!
 
embolism said:
any way to bring the temp down by running an AC in an enclosed space?

Maybe wrap your softest MF around a new grout sponge for further cushioning and to minimize pressure points?

I've never used any of these suggestions just trying to brainstorm here. Are you going to put a coating on it afterwards?

Good luck man!
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Unfortunately I can't run any AC. It's in the customer's garage which is not heated or cooled.

I could try the grout sponge idea, but I'm really not sure if that is going to help. Like I said I'm not using any pressure what so ever. I fold my softest MF in 4, lay it on the paint and lightly remove the product.
 
Try some opticlean or other waterless wash to wipe off. I did a red vette a few months ago and wiping with the softest towel, with no pressure, with plenty of opti clean was the only way to avoid putting swirls back in the paint.

GO LUCK!
 
if there that bad If it was me I would try a yelo wool pad and my makita and run it at 1000 rpm on a test spot frist to see how it works .when they keep coming back the way your doing it you maybe are just filling them in and when you use the mf your pulling out the fillers .that are just hiding them.
 
Jason, I love the holograms!! I wonder if someone used a rotary polisher? LOL

I'm not doubting at all but WOW that paint must like butter. How old or new is the paint? What's the temperature of the surface?

You've done about everything I can think of other than a foamy bath to float off any residue after polishing.

Have you tried using a different product for paint correction?
Are the "slight marks" so small that a sealant or wax will fill them?
 
Flannigan said:
Try some opticlean or other waterless wash to wipe off. I did a red vette a few months ago and wiping with the softest towel, with no pressure, with plenty of opti clean was the only way to avoid putting swirls back in the paint.

GO LUCK!
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Tried that too...I washed the car with ONR and a two bucket method. So I had my buckets there, so I figured I'd try that. Worked well for removing the product, but then when i dried it it scratched. I also tried the opti-clean method. It removed the product and streaked the paint. So, when I went back to buff it off, scratches were put in.
 
Does he have a fan?

Aim it right at the panel you are trying to buff the residue off...

Never used 85rd but Power Finish and 106FA are oily and sometimes instead of wiping it off right away, I just keep working another section, then wipe the entire panel off at once. I find if I let it haze a bit it is easier to wipe off than the fresh oily residue.

Maybe the fan will help dry the residue a bit so it comes off easier?

I dunno, remember I have buffed all of 3 cars since I joined here...


Edit: how about the ONR method plus drying with a leaf blower?
 
Wow, I'd like to know that as well... I've done a lot of soft blacks, but after correcting and going to PO85RD, I've not encounted that unless I was applying too much pressure in removing it. I'm stumped what to suggest...
One thing that has definately helped with them reappearing on my black Grand Prix and the gf's black Sonata which are both very soft paints, is the new coatings. Since applying her's about 2 months ago and mine about 3 weeks ago, the little swirls that seem to reappear aren't, even doing the ONR washes...
 
Tom Weed said:
Wow, I'd like to know that as well... I've done a lot of soft blacks, but after correcting and going to PO85RD, I've not encounted that unless I was applying too much pressure in removing it. I'm stumped what to suggest...
One thing that has definately helped with them reappearing on my black Grand Prix and the gf's black Sonata which are both very soft paints, is the new coatings. Since applying her's about 2 months ago and mine about 3 weeks ago, the little swirls that seem to reappear aren't, even doing the ONR washes...
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I'm tempted to actually suggest a coating to the customer. However, he's selling the car. Which is why I'm doing all this work right now. I don't know if he's going to want to dump the extra money for a coating on the car too.

The paint is not flawless as it should be you'd think after a full frame off restoration. There are fish eyes all over the car, which he was hoping I could correct. Which obviously I'm not a body man, so I won't be touching.

I really spent 3 hours yesterday trying working with different products, pads, wiping techniques, different MF's, and I'm totally at a loss. And it's driving me absolutely nuts. This car is beautiful and I want to make the paint as perfect as I can. These little scratches are eating away at me. I actually had dreams about them last night! Sad I know! I even dream of detailing!
 
What about finishing with something like poliseal that doesn't need to be wiped off?
 
Jason,

Since he's selling it give it your best shot polishing and then go over it with a glaze. Once the glaze has dried seal it.

You only can do so much and it sounds like there could be something else going on here..
 
Flannigan said:
What about finishing with something like poliseal that doesn't need to be wiped off?
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I've never used poliseal, but that's not a bad idea....

I didn't even realize that they made polishes that you didn't have to wipe off. Going to be looking into that now.
 
SeaJay's said:
I've never used poliseal, but that's not a bad idea....

I didn't even realize that they made polishes that you didn't have to wipe off. Going to be looking into that now.
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It's actually an AIO that does light polishing and protects at the same time. You buff it until it's clear and then just walk away. No need to buff off any residue.
 
nice call Flannigan!

I totally forgot that Bill just did his wife's Prius with it
 
Flannigan said:
What about finishing with something like poliseal that doesn't need to be wiped off?
Click to expand...

I just looked up the poli-seal and you have to buff that off too...at least from the description on the AG store website...


"After Poli-Seal hazed over, I buffed the paint using a Cobra Microfiber Towel, flipping it often. Unbelievable. The towel was filthy with dirt and oxidation that was not even apparent before I applied Poli-Seal. The haze buffed easily and in no time, the car was completely polished and sealed."
 
Wouldn't be the first time their description was wrong..lol. I used it just the other day and there was NO residue whatsoever. Also there is a review thread on here somewhere stating the same thing. I will try to find it for you.
 
BobbyG said:
Jason,

Since he's selling it give it your best shot polishing and then go over it with a glaze. Once the glaze has dried seal it.

You only can do so much and it sounds like there could be something else going on here..
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I was thinking that something else was going on. I honestly think that who ever did the body work really did a crappy job. Considering the amount of fish eyes, the ultra soft clear (which I know vettes typically have a soft clear, but this is ridiculous!). I think the guy was cutting corners to save himself a buck or to cut the time of the restoration down. I don't really know. But it's a shame. The car was gone for almost 8 years. The owner is livid about the fish eyes. He said they didn't show up until 6+ months down the road. Which I thought was odd, but whatever.
 
Flannigan said:
Wouldn't be the first time their description was wrong..lol. I used it just the other day and there was NO residue whatsoever. Also there is a review thread on here somewhere stating the same thing. I will try to find it for you.
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Well I personally have no experience with it, just read the description on the website. At this point I'm willing to try anything.

I'll be placing an order today, so I'll throw that in anyway. Going to have to have it shipped up over night though...ugh...good old freight charges! lol.
 
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