Uncoated Aluminum wheel restoration

[curryitr]

Hello,

[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]I just bought 4 used hem Miata wheels out of a salvage yard. I was hoping to clean up their appearance close to what they were from Mazda. They did not have a mirrored finish, but instead were a shiny silver color. From what I can tell they are an uncoated cast aluminum wheel. They have some oxidation and pitting especially where the old wheel weights were (possibly just old adhesive). I was wondering if anyone on the board had some suggestions on how they could be brought back to their factory finish? I don't believe they were clear coated from the factory, and if this were a painted silver finish it would be flaking instead of oxidizing the way it has. [/FONT][FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]On the picture showing the back of the wheel you can see the original finish at the hub. [/FONT][FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]My first thought is to use some Eagle One etching wheel cleaner followed by mothers mag/aluminum polish on a power ball. I have attached some pictures of their condition and any suggestions would be appreciated. [/FONT]
Thanks!

 

[C5Longhorn]

I would lightly sand them and then hit them a few times with metal polish. You will be amazed at how good you can get them looking with some time and elbow grease.

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[curryitr]

What do you recommend I sand them with? I’m assuming I’d be wetsanding them?

 

[C5Longhorn]

Yes, I had a variety of grits I used, from 800/1000 all the way up to 3000. The great thing about uncoated wheels is that you can clean up and repair blemishes.

I'd start with a higher rate paper and then get more aggressive. So, maybe start with 1500 to 2000 and see how it responds.

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[curryitr]

If I have to use sandpaper I want to keep from giving them a mirror finish. I might use 2000 just to hit the rough oxidation off of them and then try the polish.

 

[2black1s]

Those wheels look a bit beyond what normal cleaning/detailing products are capable of. They need restoration, not detailing.

If you sand them you're going to alter the surface texture in the areas sanded. I'd only do that as a last resort.

What I would try first is an aluminum cleaner chemical (acidic) from an automotive paint supply store. Even this will probably only do a so-so job but maybe it would be good enough... Depends on your expectations.

If that doesn't work to your satisfaction, my next attempt would be bead-blasting them. They'll look like new after that. The problem then becomes how to keep them looking that way. I'd consider powder coating, painting or clear-coating them after the blasting.

One other option, see about purchasing a set of reconditioned wheels and use the ones you have as cores.

 

[kkritsilas]

Just as a suggestion: try Flitz's Pre Cleaner for aluminum. I don't know if it is acidic or basic, but it does do a great job on aluminum oxidation, and it is a chemical, not an abrasive. If that does work, you can figure out which way to go afterwards. You will get a mirror finish if you use the Flitz polish and their Buff Ball. I have used it on not only aluminum wheels, but aluminum body trim, and it has always worked well fro me.

There are anumber of Flitz videos on Youtube, and a few of them show the action of the Pre Cleaner on aluminum. One in particular show it with Diamond Plate.

 

[SWETM]

If you go for a original look and want them restored. I would bought 1 more rim in the same condition if I would be diy them. Then I could experiment on a rim I didnt cared for. A suggestion is to look up what the price would be to someone else doing it for you. Some company that works with aluminum and can blast them with most suited media. Then look up if you can clearcoat bare aluminum. If not I would paint them with a base coat that is as close to aluminum color on the rims and clearcoat them. Just to be safe that them hold up over the years forth.

I agree to start with an aluminum cleaning chemical first and then look into blast them. If my memory is right their is crossed nutshells that they use when blasting aluminum. They seems to be in great condition for restoration so it can be worth it.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

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Half my forum work is simply remember where to find articles I've already written....


From 2010 - note how even after 8 years my pictures have not dispeared like all the pictures that have disappeared in posts where people used Photobucket to host their pictures. When you join AGO you get a free gallery, all you have to do is learn how to use it. I did it so it can't be that hard.


Old School Aluminum Slotted Mag Wheels - Extreme Makeover


Before

AFTER

And cleaned up the insides too...

Old School Aluminum Slotted Mag Wheels - Extreme Makeover

 

[curryitr]

Wow! Those are some amazing results Mike. I was hoping you would chime in. In your article you say that the Flitz pad is equivalent to 1500 grit. That is about the same as a white Scotch-brite pad. See any problems with using one of those? I have some Eagle One etching aluminum wheel cleaner on hand I could pair with a scotch brite. I'm assuming since it is made for uncoated aluminum wheels it would not stain them as you talked about in your article for non Flitz brand cleaners?

 

[kkritsilas]

Forget to my experience polishing wheels, as background:

I have polished out two sets of Chrysler/Dodge factory alloy wheels. The types are referred to as 5 on 5s (5 Flat wide spokes, interleaved with 5 thin spokes on a lower layer) and Snowflakes. (NOT the Pontiac snowflakes). Both wheels are from the 1980s, nd were used on Cordoba's (5 on 5s) and Imperials/Fifth Avenues (Snowflakes).

The 5 on 5s were factory clear coated, with a very, very tough argent/sliver epoxy paint underneath. On all wheels, this was scratched/cracked, and in a couple of wheels, dirt had worked it's way under the clear coat/epoxy paint. Id some research, and talked to some people familiar with abrasive blasting, and they recommended crushed glass blasting, with 70/40 grade soda glass. Worked great to remove the coating and paint, but the surface was rough. Started hand sanding with 400 grit, then progressing to 600 grit, and then 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper. They looked good, but weren't as shiny as I was hoping. Back to more research. Latched onto some posts about Flitz. Used the Pre aluminium cleaner first, which noticeably improved the clarity of the surface. That was followed up withFkitz polish on Flitz's own Buff Ball in an electric drill. End result was a set of great looking shells with a mirror like shine.

The Snowflake wheels had similar defects, but as I wanted to keep the darker gray accent paint intact, I ended up just sanding the wheels with the same 400-600-1000 grit sandpaper paper, without any abrasive blasting. Same final step with the Flitz Pre Cleaner, and Flitz polish. Turned out great as well.

A couple of brief points.

1. Forged wheels (both sets that I polished out were forged) are said to shine up better than cast wheels.
2. Both sets of wheels had machining marks (fine grooves), probably left intentionally to help the paint stick better (the snowflakes had a very thin chrome plate appearing coating under the clear coat. Abrasive blasting was the fastest, easiest way to deal with them on the 5 on 5s; only thing that could be used on the snowflakes was elbow grease.
3. Some people will say that crushed glass is too rough on aluminium, but it was recommended over walnut shells and soda because of how tough the factory paint and clear coats are. Soda won't even touch the epoxy paint, and takes forever to even start removing the clear coat.