Undercarriage Winter Prep

TheFrankenberry

TheFrankenberry

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Winter paint prep has been beat to death, but how about the undercarriage? What good is pristine paint if the chassis is rots out and you can't drive it anywhere to show?

I've been out of the snow belt for the last eight years, and have gained great insight into the care of my automobile. Now that I'm back, I want to do my best to also protect the undercarriage from snow, ice, salt and whatever else they put down on the roads.

Here is the plan I've formulated to tackle this situation. Please give me your thoughts on any changes in the steps, steps that won't work, products that won't work, et cetera.

1. Iron removal, foam wash and rinse.
Arsenal: CarPro Iron-X, Gtechniq Gwash, DuraGloss 901 Car Wash Concentrate, Ultima Paint Guard Wash, Optimum Car Wash

2. Spray with an APC/degreaser and agitate.
Arsenal: Optimum Power Clean, P21S Total Auto Wash, Meguair's D103 APC+ (yes, I still have some!)

3. Rinse and dry.
Arsenal: MetroVac Sidekick

4. Spray with rust inhibitor.
Arsenal: CorrosionX (pending confirmation on compatibility with plastics, rubber and sealants/waxes)

5. Spray with sealant and wipe with microfiber as best I can.
Arsenal: Ultima Paint Guard Plus, Optimum Opti-Seal, Prima Hydro Max

6. Repeat step 5.

7. Spray with wax and wipe with microfiber as best I can.
Arsenal: Optimum Car Wax, Four Star Ultimate Spray Wax Plus, Prima Hydro Wax, DuraGloss 151 AquaWax

8. Repeat step 7.

9. Rinse as needed and able throughout winter.
Arsenal: Salt-Away, Optimum No Rinse, Ultima Waterless Wash Plus
 
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Which specific areas of the "Undercarriage" are you trying to protect?

Wheels
Tires
Wheel Wells
Rotors
Suspension components
Frame

Is it possible for you to remove the wheels during the process?
 
allenk4 said:
Which specific areas of the "Undercarriage" are you trying to protect?

Is it possible for you to remove the wheels during the process?
Click to expand...

- Whatever is going to come into contact with the bad road salt underneath the vehicle. Paint, glass, trim, tires, wheels and wheel wells are already maintained.
- Yes, they'll be off to get to the knuckles, control arms, et cetera.


lyodbraun said:
Fluidfilm works wonders, and is safe on everything...
Click to expand...

I did not know about FluidFilm, but after more research FluidFilm, Wurth Rost Off Extra, Boeshield T9 and LPS-3 are other viable rust inhibitors along the same line as CorrosionX. The latter two also seem to leave behind a thin waxy residue.

All seem to be stand alone products, so I would stop at Step 4 if I go this route. It just means I'd have to buy another product instead of using what I already have.


So do any of you snow belt detailers ever address the undercarriage in any meaningful way?
 
I got my underbody coated. Door panels, fenders and rockers treated as well.
 
I just throw a quick coat of rustoleum black paint on all the suspension stuff, axles, frame etc. Just watch for any rubber and you'll be fine.
 
I wouldn't iron x anything other than paint, glass, trim, tires.

If you iron x under your car and there is galvanized/zinc coated metal it will remove the protective coating it causing it to rust.

BEWARE
 
toycar18 said:
I wouldn't iron x anything other than paint, glass, trim, tires.

If you iron x under your car and there is galvanized/zinc coated metal it will remove the protective coating it causing it to rust.

BEWARE
Click to expand...

I have never seen a warning form CarPro about this?

What undercarriage parts, specifically, would you need to watch out for?

Just curious...it hasn't rained here in months
 
When I rebuilt my suspension I did a full three-step POR-15 process to all new (exposed) metal parts: rotor hats and circumferences, calipers, drums, backing plates, suspension arms, steering knuckles, frame rail ends, axles, ABS reluctor rings and any worn or rusted areas of the painted undercarriage. On my car there are several areas with open metal tube ends (under the thermoplastic body panels), so right before winter I remove the body panels and use the Schütz gun to fill the cavities with Waxoyl or FluidFilm.

Up here there is a very competitive rust-prevention racket. Someone mentioned in another thread how they do it. I have never had it done to any of my own cars. My mom gets her 2003 Corolla done every summer, $75. There is almost no trace of rust on her car, but the black goo everywhere is FN gross and makes simple services like oil changes dirty and challenging. They appear to spray their product indiscriminately, even on areas that have no business being treated like the engine, rad, oil pan, headlamp housings. Every year when I clean her car before winter it takes me the better part of a day to clean the engine compartment.
 
SameGuy said:
Up here there is a very competitive rust-prevention racket.
Click to expand...
Down here and around where I've lived..
that racket belonged to Zeibart/Tidy Car.

And:
:iagree:...with doing the Por 15 process.


Bob
 
The real culprit for under car damage is not so much salt any longer, but Magnesium Chloride. You might want to take a look at the ValuGard set of products from undercoating to a special wash to remove the Mag Chloride. ValuGard I believe is private labled by Ford and Chrysler also.
 
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