User error/poor technique or defected pads? (LC Hydro-tech) - pics inside

[JJH]

First time using these Lake County Hydro-tech pads yesterday and ran into some issues. I'm going to post up some pics below that show the problems that I was having. Keep in mind that these were brands new pads never used before and I only got through three panels before I started experiencing these issues.

In these pics, you can see where the edges of the pads started to deteriorate.

Hard to see in this pic, but the middle of the pad started to concave in a little bit.

Had to finish the job with my uber foam pads which as you can see gave me no trouble at all.

Here's some insight into how I was using these when this happened.

Griots Garage 6", speeds 4-5, 4-6 section passes with a 24"x24" working area. Primed the pad initially with 4 drops of Menzerna FG400 and then followed up with 3 pea-dime size drops for each new working area. Applied 9-15lbs of pressure consistently for every pass.

Since these pads are new to me (although I have used closed cell pads before), I can only attribute this to being defected pads. Any insight?

 

[Rsurfer]

Your speeds and pressure seems to be ok, but the pad indicates too much speed and pressure. Not doubting you, but a pad with a concave center indicates too much heat. Is the tangerine pad in the background a H20 pad and if so is it ok? The cayan pad looks like you've been buffing some emblems or sharp edges.

 

[TroyScherer]

Did you hit any emblems or edges? The edges of your pads look as though you may have.

The concave on the m,iddle of the pad is most likely a build up of to much heat and product. H2O pads like to / need to run cool and stay clean

 

[Nick McKees37]

Going by the pictures posted, it looks like the edge of the pad was run into an emblem, windshield washer squirter, marker light, etc. This would be considered user error and not a manufacturing defect. The pad still looks safe to use.

Most common causes of pad failure:

• Excess heat (caused by too much pressure being applied to the polisher)
• Inadequate cooling time (this goes back to heat)
• Unrealistic expectations (pads do wear out)
• Improper washing

Tips for maximizing pad life:

• Keep the pad flat and focus on the area you're polishing. Tape off any emblems and don't run the machine over/against them.
• Switch between two pads for each step. Example: after performing a section pass, take that pad off and switch to another one. While using the fresh pad, the other pad will have time to cool down.
• Apply less pressure: Moving the polisher faster and/or applying more pressure to the machine isn't going to get the job done faster. Let the abrasives in the polish, the action of the tool, and the mechanical cutting ability of the pad do the work for you.
• Do not machine-wash pads unless manufacturer specifies it.
• When you do wash pads, allow them to air dry with the backing material facing up.

Assuming you only purchased one CYAN pad to do an entire car, you'll need to pick up another one anyway. If you'd like to order additional pads so you can complete the job, give me a call and I'll make the shipping charges go away. 1-800-869-3011 ext 215

:dblthumb2:

 

[JJH]

Thanks for the help Nick. These pads are trickier than normal open cell foam pads to work with, albeit more effective. I need to adjust my technique apparently. Question for you - I've got the Detailers Pro Series Polishing Pad Rejuvenator powder, is it possible to use this powder in a front loading washing machine once I've hand cleaned all of my pads?

 

[The Pad Man]

The closed cell (hydrotech) are a bit trickier. See how far the chemical traveled inthe pad? now if you add pressure, and speed, you create friction, which creates heat, which can breakdown anything.