Using Spray Max 2k Clearcoat on headlights?

K

KDR83

New member
Joined
Aug 5, 2015
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Hey everyone, my headlights on my 2003 Dodge Viper are toast. Very yellow, not clear, etc. I want to refinish them and purchased Spray Max 2k Clearcoat. My question is what grit should I stop sanding in order for the clearcoat to have something to grab but making sure the clearcoat covers the sanding marks? I was planning on starting wet sanding with 200 grit to get all the old clearcoat off in a horizontal motion, then moving to 400 grit in a vertical motion and then lastly 600 grit in a horizontal motion again. I read some people say the 2k clearcoat will cover 400 grit but want to do 600 just in case. Should I do anything else before spraying them with the clearcoat? My plan was also to wetsand them with 2000 grit after I let the clearcoat dry and polish them out. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

some pictures of the car:
20150801_131815_zps59phrd12.jpg

20150803_082011_zpsxgfkcmg6.jpg

20150804_190731_zps9wrchvhx.jpg

this picture shows the oxidized paint on the car, a quick run of Mequiars Ultimate Compound by hand got rid of most of it which is good (can see how much worse it looks towards the top of the picture), I plan on detailing the whole car soon, need to buy an dual action buffer.
 
I would say that 200 grit is way too aggressive to start.

I'd go 600, 1000, 2000, and see where you're at.

Clearcoat is funny sometimes, as it doesn't always fill like it should especially on clear plastics.

I'd recommend polishing them out with a compound and polish too and then using something like Optimum's opti-lens.
 
Welcome! I see this is your 1st post on AG.

Have you considered going with a headlight lens correction kit instead? An AIO product is going to be way more user friendly and forgiving then trying to jump right into sand out your headlights and then spraying on a clear coat. As Mike Phillips always says: Always start with the least aggressive approach first.

Honestly if you're new to this, I'd strongly recommend a product like DP's Headlight Kit. Check out my review on the using DP's AIO on a toasted set of headlights:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...er-s-headlight-protectant-spray-reviewed.html

Since you're already planning on getting a DA, you can enjoy the same results without the risk of too aggressively sanding your headlights / getting clear coat over spray onto your paint...
 
I'd say your plan sounds good although I'd probably start with 320 in lieu of 200. 600 is adequate for the final sanding before the clear coat.

Like others have said, have you tried polishing? That would be my first choice. If that doesn't do it then proceed to sanding.
 
I've restored headlights before and am not new to painting or wetsanding, just haven't used 2k clearcoat before. I want something that will last and to do it right the first time. I was going to use 200 grit to make sure I get all the clearcoat off but 320 sounds good too.

The other picture doesn't show how bad the headlights are, here is a better picture...
_57_zpsonthuffa.jpg


Definitely past the point of a simple polish

I was going to go with 200 after reading this DIY on corvetteforum
C6 Headlight Lens Restoration / Polishing - Corvette Forum
 
Now I can definitely see how bad it is. There are times I wish I had 200 grit.

I don't have experience with 1 or 2K clear but I thought I have read to finish sanding around 1000 for clear coats. Maybe higher.

You can use 2000 grit to sand out your orange peel if you have any after clear coating them, but you might want to step a grit or two lower to speed up your results. Then finish up with the 2000. Also would depend on how severe or light the orange peel is.
 
I thought I read somewhere that the clearcoat will even cover 400 grit sand marks, I basically want to go as low as possible to where it still covers the sand lines...that way the paint has a great surface to grab onto
 
Oh yeah, from the new photo/ better angle those headlights need sanding. Good luck!
 
I haven't had a turn on a Viper yet but most Chrysler plastics are easy to work with. It looks like a good portion of the coating is failing so 1000/800 may be a good starting point. 400 would be my next approach. Please post some after pics of your work! Out of curiosity, have you priced out lenses on that yet?
 
yeah being a limited production car, they don't sell just the lense and the headlight don't run cheap. I am planning on lowering the car sometime soon so when I have the wheels off I will pull the headlights completely out of the car to do it. The gaskets around the lights are shot too so may as well fix everything while I have the chance.
 
KDR83 said:
I thought I read somewhere that the clearcoat will even cover 400 grit sand marks, I basically want to go as low as possible to where it still covers the sand lines...that way the paint has a great surface to grab onto
Click to expand...

Wow I would go to a way higher grit than that before painting, I'm sure you'll still have plenty of "tooth" at 1000 or 1500 grit, maybe even 2000.

Please use a proper respirator when spraying that 2K clear.
 
I have all the way through 2000 grit that i purchased last weekend. I am going to pull the headlights out of the car as I want to replace the rubber seals around them so I will make sure the spray in a well ventilated area with a respirator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top