Utility Trucks Rubber Flooring

[My Detailing Guys]

I’ve cleaned a few utility trucks this year and in most cases the rubber flooring is caked with dried mud. I start my process to remove the dirt by using a scrub brush to loosen the dried dirt, vacuum, wipe down with APC, and even steam the rubber flooring. While the floor is still wet, it looks clean, but when it dries it has patchy areas that still look like dirt remained. I go over it again, and again it looks great when it’s wet. I’m assuming these remaining dirt marks are just like stains in carpet that don’t come out.

Does anyone else have this problem?

Is there a different process I should be doing?
or
A product I should be using?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[BucboyInPa]

If it's black,i usually just re-shoot it with flat black spray paint. It comes out very nice.

 

[lyodbraun]

Try some simple green straight on those areas and let dwell for a few then scrub the area...

 

[Romans5.8]

If it's black,i usually just re-shoot it with flat black spray paint. It comes out very nice.

It'll scratch easy though, won't it? Plus there's the risk of overspray and other nasty things.

We had a truck like that once. Would just use an all-purpose degreaser type spray and a stuff brush. We were also known for using a hose and low pressure to rinse it out (Vinyl seats too and this was a '95 F-150, so a lot less fanciness in the dash and everything and you could easily do it without getting sensitive stuff wet).

Police officers routinely hose out the plastic floors in the back of police cruisers, AND the hard plastic or vinyl seats (many have hard plastic seats in the back!). Who wants to sit and scrub some drunk guys puke?

 

[artofdetailing]

I’ve cleaned a few utility trucks this year and in most cases the rubber flooring is caked with dried mud. I start my process to remove the dirt by using a scrub brush to loosen the dried dirt, vacuum, wipe down with APC, and even steam the rubber flooring. While the floor is still wet, it looks clean, but when it dries it has patchy areas that still look like dirt remained. I go over it again, and again it looks great when it’s wet. I’m assuming these remaining dirt marks are just like stains in carpet that don’t come out.

Does anyone else have this problem?

Is there a different process I should be doing?
or
A product I should be using?

Thanks,
Greg

Id spray some 303 protectant or similar product on there.

 

[My Detailing Guys]

If it's black,i usually just re-shoot it with flat black spray paint. It comes out very nice.

I can see this working, but my concern would be the possibility of overspray, or having to cover everything. Thanks, Greg

Try some simple green straight on those areas and let dwell for a few then scrub the area...

Tried simple green and it helped a little. I figured it would work, as it does on other things. Thanks, Greg

It'll scratch easy though, won't it? Plus there's the risk of overspray and other nasty things.

We had a truck like that once. Would just use an all-purpose degreaser type spray and a stuff brush. We were also known for using a hose and low pressure to rinse it out (Vinyl seats too and this was a '95 F-150, so a lot less fanciness in the dash and everything and you could easily do it without getting sensitive stuff wet).

Police officers routinely hose out the plastic floors in the back of police cruisers, AND the hard plastic or vinyl seats (many have hard plastic seats in the back!). Who wants to sit and scrub some drunk guys puke?

You got me thinking, that maybe a citrus base product might work. I use it on tires and it works well.
Haha drunk guys puke, I know I wouldn't clean that mess up. Thanks, Greg

Id spray some 303 protectant or similar product on there.

I read the write on AG about 303 protectant, I think I'm going to add this as on add on sale. Thanks, Greg

 

[swanicyouth]

Yes. I have had a similar issue and I think I've figured it out, with black BMW rubber floor mats at least. The issue I've discovered is the water is actually staining or leaving water spots. If I clean my rubber floor mats with hose water and just leave them to dry, they have white spots or areas on them.

I have figured out if you do a final rinse down with DI water and dry them with something like a Master Blaster - the problem disappears.

I'm not sure if your having the same issue or the rubber is stained. If its stained, nothing will clean it like Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner on a scrub brush. Keep scrubbing until you get all white foam (like a tire) and rinse with DI water. Stains should be gone. That stuff is meant to clean everything out of rubber. It gets stuff APCs can't touch.

A second application of the TS Tire Cleaner may be advantageous 10-20 hours later if some staining still remains. Since rubber (even synthetic rubber I believe) is somewhat porous, when you get the surface perfectly clean, hidden gunk seem to come to the surface in a bit of time once its clean - almost like the dirt wants to form a steady state across a membrane as in biological systems. I've found this time and time again with tires.

However, rubber (+/- synthetic) is no biological system. It consumes no energy, has no transporter pumps, and isn't striving to maintain life. So, the dirt tends to "come out" after a while. Entropy will prevail.

All my theory, and what has worked for me. I'm confident if you use DI water and Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner with this method your issue will be resolved. Or the stains greatly improved - more than just using APC.

 

[swanicyouth]

Id spray some 303 protectant or similar product on there.

You going to use 303 Protectant where guys are putting the soles of their shoes and working pedals to control the truck ?????

Um, I know that stuff isn't Armor All, but it isn't a coating either. It has some slickness to it that has the potential to be super greasy on the soles of some shoes. I don't think dressing the floor mats or rubber floor board coverings is generally advised.

 

[tuscarora dave]

The best way I've seen, (and this is a trick learned by the old heads) is to first remove all the loose dirt by brushing/vacuuming then rub a janitors's floor wax into the rubber mat with a sponge and allow to soak in for a few minutes (5 minutes or so) then go over the rubber/vinyl floor with an all purpose cleaner and water to remove any excess wax so that dirt doesn't stick to it.

I'm talking something like this

Trewax 1 gal. Gold Label Sealer Wax Gloss Finish-887171967 at The Home Depot

It makes the black rubber/vinyl mats look brand new.

I've also soaked the mats with a water based tire dressing such as Poorboy's World Bold & Bright before washing with an APC to remove any slickness. This also makes the black rubber/vinyl floors look new but doesn't last as long as the floor wax method.

 

[My Detailing Guys]

Yes. I have had a similar issue and I think I've figured it out, with black BMW rubber floor mats at least. The issue I've discovered is the water is actually staining or leaving water spots. If I clean my rubber floor mats with hose water and just leave them to dry, they have white spots or areas on them.

I have figured out if you do a final rinse down with DI water and dry them with something like a Master Blaster - the problem disappears.

I'm not sure if your having the same issue or the rubber is stained. If its stained, nothing will clean it like Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner on a scrub brush. Keep scrubbing until you get all white foam (like a tire) and rinse with DI water. Stains should be gone. That stuff is meant to clean everything out of rubber. It gets stuff APCs can't touch.

A second application of the TS Tire Cleaner may be advantageous 10-20 hours later if some staining still remains. Since rubber (even synthetic rubber I believe) is somewhat porous, when you get the surface perfectly clean, hidden gunk seem to come to the surface in a bit of time once its clean - almost like the dirt wants to form a steady state across a membrane as in biological systems. I've found this time and time again with tires.

However, rubber (+/- synthetic) is no biological system. It consumes no energy, has no transporter pumps, and isn't striving to maintain life. So, the dirt tends to "come out" after a while. Entropy will prevail.

All my theory, and what has worked for me. I'm confident if you use DI water and Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner with this method your issue will be resolved. Or the stains greatly improved - more than just using APC.

Not only the removing of the dirt out of the rubber floor, but the water spots are also a problem. I'll try your suggestions. Thanks, Greg

You going to use 303 Protectant where guys are putting the soles of their shoes and working pedals to control the truck ?????

Um, I know that stuff isn't Armor All, but it isn't a coating either. It has some slickness to it that has the potential to be super greasy on the soles of some shoes. I don't think dressing the floor mats or rubber floor board coverings is generally advised.

When this was suggested I thought the same thing, but the product description said the 303 protection is never oily or greasy. I've never added dressing to rubber flooring, mates or pedals just for the fact of safety reasons.

The best way I've seen, (and this is a trick learned by the old heads) is to first remove all the loose dirt by brushing/vacuuming then rub a janitors's floor wax into the rubber mat with a sponge and allow to soak in for a few minutes (5 minutes or so) then go over the rubber/vinyl floor with an all purpose cleaner and water to remove any excess wax so that dirt doesn't stick to it.

I'm talking something like this

Trewax 1 gal. Gold Label Sealer Wax Gloss Finish-887171967 at The Home Depot

It makes the black rubber/vinyl mats look brand new.

I've also soaked the mats with a water based tire dressing such as Poorboy's World Bold & Bright before washing with an APC to remove any slickness. This also makes the black rubber/vinyl floors look new but doesn't last as long as the floor wax method.

I've found many of the old school tricks tend to work the best. Thanks, Greg

 

[rustytruck]

They never look great. clean the dirt off them and that's really all you can do. Do not use any products that will leave the rubber slick. That would be dangerous and leave you open to a liability issue.

 

[Detailing by M]

you need some kind of dressing on it.
It's dried out and the dirt is embedded into the pores.
A dressing will lessen and blacken the rubber, it's rubber so treat it like rubber.
I use Hyper Dressing mix 2:1 apply and wipe off.
Degrease the drive area or any area where slipping might be a problem