Video: Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax VS P&S Bead Maker VS Adam's Ceramic Spray Coating!

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OrangeVee

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Hi guys,

This week, I answer a huge request of my viewers to have a battle of the spray-on paint protectants. Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax VS P&S Bead Maker VS Adam's Ceramic Spray Coating. We'll talk about gloss, slickness, chemical resistance, hydrophobic properties, price, etc. We'll submit the paint protectants to a chemical torture test as well.

Enjoy the video!

In English:

En Français:
 
Just awful results on the durability tests. I would love to see those same tests done to the better known paint sealants to gauge if anything is going to stand up to those elements besides a true paint coating.
 
I guess if I ever run out of Eraser I can mix up some APC+Degreaser+Fallout remover..
 
Panel needs to be washed with something like Reset in between test, a spray and rinse really proves nothing.
 
sixsix said:
Panel needs to be washed with something like Reset in between test, a spray and rinse really proves nothing.
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Hi. First, thanks for the constructive criticism. I want to remind people that this was my first "VS" comparison test and I am human. I wanted to make sure I covered all the bases in making sure we test the same panel, on a daily driven car with imperfections, on the same day, with appropriate curing times, a decontaminated and IPA'd panel, etc. I even wanted to make sure the products were applied to a daily driven car, that hasn't been polished, to mimic real world scenarios where people want to apply a quick boost in protection and gloss, but don't have the time or experience to fully polish their car. Some have pointed out that having oxidized paint might interfere with the products properly bonding to the paintwork.

Upon reading some comments, I will make the following adjustments in a next test:
- make sure the panel is polished to remove any oxidation that might interfere with the products bonding
- make sure that I wash the panel with a pH neutral soap and then rinse to make sure I remove any residue from the chemicals that might be masking the protectant. Some have recommended not to use a soap, as that could potentially leave residue behind, but rather use an IPA wipe or panel prep like Dupli Color Wax & Grease remover.

We all learn and I am open to constructive criticism. But regardless of their durability, I would still recommend a proper ceramic coating application as a base layer, and use these three products as "toppers" during maintenance washes, to boost the coating's performance and extent its durability, plus add gloss and slickness to the paint.
 
Nice video and appreciate the time and effort to do this, however, you are comparing apples to oranges to bananas.
 
Great job as always. I love Bead Maker, I am not concerned about durability as I wash my car each week and add a coat of Bead Maker. For me there is nothing as slick and glossy. I always find you videos very informative. I mixed up some ECH2O/Distilled water and Reload after watching one of you videos. I thought was a great combo, especially since I don't care for Reload by itself. Again great job.
 
dogma said:
Great job as always. I love Bead Maker, I am not concerned about durability as I wash my car each week and add a coat of Bead Maker. Again great job.
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I 100% agree with you on that as it's the same for me. Although my viewers wanted to see this chemical resistance test, that point is lowest on the priority scale for me as the most important factors in my case are gloss and slickness. For durability and resistance to chemicals, I have base layers of ceramic coatings that are there for those duties (good coatings will resits chemicals in the range of pH 2-3 all the way up to 12-13 on the pH scale). So for maintenance washes, I like to use good toppers that will boost gloss and slickness, like Bead Maker or CarPro Reload, Kamikaze Over Coat, etc.
 
Rsurfer said:
Nice video and appreciate the time and effort to do this, however, you are comparing apples to oranges to bananas.
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Yeah I agree, one is for beauty (Beadmaker), one is for durability (Adam's) and one is accessibility (Meg's)...sorry, could not come up with something better for Meg's, kinda soured on it due to the sprayer issue.

I think Adam's H2o Guard and Gloss vs. Meg's would be a better test, especially since initial application is similar.

Overall though, I'd like to see a real world test and not this chemical test. Sure it would take some time but with so many people subscribed to the channel they'll always see the update when it comes out. Keep up the good work Pan

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Thank you very much for the video and tests you have been doing. I know it takes a lot of time, effort and money to do these. We really appreciate your feedback and tests.

If you dont mind, perhaps throw in a "traditional" readily available ceramic coating in the mix? Just so we can see the benefit/durability of an actual coating vs the newer spray ones?
 
It's a interesting test to do these heads up ones. But as noted before it's very important to get some kind of cleaning between the different chemicals testing. A coating friendly car soap that don't leave anything behind is great. Even a weak ipa wipe down would be good. The chemicals has some pretty heavy chemicals that is hard to be only rinsed off thoroughly. As it's leaves behind residue that mask the water behavior very much. I would bet that you could get the water behavior back to some point on all three test sections. If washed a couple of times with car soap and a ipa wipe down.

The second is that's Meguiars D101 in concentrate has a ph13 and D108 has ph13-ph13,9. So both is even diluted very high ph levels. And that's very much impact any LSP even a full blown coating takes a hit if used often. So the most gentle of the one used I would say is the iron remover of them. I would even say that a solvent based tar degreaser is more gentle that a high ph level degreaser is. Here in Sweden where I live we use something we call Cold Degreaser during winter months. It's based of some kind of petroleum that helps to desolve all that studded winter tires wear and tear on the asphalt roads. So it's basicly a tar degreaser. And often after used a TFR prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off and you still see that the lower side panels and the back of the car is almost gone. Then you apply the Cold Degreaser or tar remover you get the water behavior back. This is something I recommend to do on chemical resistant sealants and coatings. To have them on the best performance of water behavior and self cleaning ability from the LSP. During the summer months we only use a gentle TFR prewash foam and it's to help desolve as much as possible of the traffic film that gets on the vehicals. This is just some experience I have with useing different kind of chemicals.

And want to ad also that something like Reload and even Gliss v1 leaves something oil based to ad up the gloss as a organic wax does. So useing a tar remover is going to be impact on the gloss level directly. And that's also so with organic waxes. The whole protection it leaves won't be desolved just the oils that they leave. It's hard to know which LSP impacts from a tar remover so it's not only Carpro Reload and Gliss that does it but many others I'm sure. And something like Carnuaba is also great to resist chemicals. It's just what else is used with it that often has weak chemical resistants. Carnuaba hybrid waxes or hybrid sealants is often a great chemical resistant LSP. The one that comes to mind is Collinite 476s.

Hope you don't take it at bashing you. It's just that I don't see what we could get out of the use of a chemical that is to powerfull to be used on most LSP. And it's many that do these chemical testing. The long testing on LSP on a vehical that is used as a DD and is maintained like the method you uses is the most effective testing on them. And it's hard to do a test that mimic those conditions. One that is quite effective would be to test how many washes it stands up to. Time consuming and also alot of elbow grease needed LOL. But there you get one factor that's also important which is wear and aggitation resistant with doing that. And use a chemical that the LSP is made to handle gives a little honest results from it.

/ Tony
 
SWETM said:
It's a interesting test to do these heads up ones. But as noted before it's very important to get some kind of cleaning between the different chemicals testing. A coating friendly car soap that don't leave anything behind is great. Even a weak ipa wipe down would be good. The chemicals has some pretty heavy chemicals that is hard to be only rinsed off thoroughly. As it's leaves behind residue that mask the water behavior very much. I would bet that you could get the water behavior back to some point on all three test sections. If washed a couple of times with car soap and a ipa wipe down.

The second is that's Meguiars D101 in concentrate has a ph13 and D108 has ph13-ph13,9. So both is even diluted very high ph levels. And that's very much impact any LSP even a full blown coating takes a hit if used often. So the most gentle of the one used I would say is the iron remover of them. I would even say that a solvent based tar degreaser is more gentle that a high ph level degreaser is. Here in Sweden where I live we use something we call Cold Degreaser during winter months. It's based of some kind of petroleum that helps to desolve all that studded winter tires wear and tear on the asphalt roads. So it's basicly a tar degreaser. And often after used a TFR prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off and you still see that the lower side panels and the back of the car is almost gone. Then you apply the Cold Degreaser or tar remover you get the water behavior back. This is something I recommend to do on chemical resistant sealants and coatings. To have them on the best performance of water behavior and self cleaning ability from the LSP. During the summer months we only use a gentle TFR prewash foam and it's to help desolve as much as possible of the traffic film that gets on the vehicals. This is just some experience I have with useing different kind of chemicals.

And want to ad also that something like Reload and even Gliss v1 leaves something oil based to ad up the gloss as a organic wax does. So useing a tar remover is going to be impact on the gloss level directly. And that's also so with organic waxes. The whole protection it leaves won't be desolved just the oils that they leave. It's hard to know which LSP impacts from a tar remover so it's not only Carpro Reload and Gliss that does it but many others I'm sure. And something like Carnuaba is also great to resist chemicals. It's just what else is used with it that often has weak chemical resistants. Carnuaba hybrid waxes or hybrid sealants is often a great chemical resistant LSP. The one that comes to mind is Collinite 476s.

Hope you don't take it at bashing you. It's just that I don't see what we could get out of the use of a chemical that is to powerfull to be used on most LSP. And it's many that do these chemical testing. The long testing on LSP on a vehical that is used as a DD and is maintained like the method you uses is the most effective testing on them. And it's hard to do a test that mimic those conditions. One that is quite effective would be to test how many washes it stands up to. Time consuming and also alot of elbow grease needed LOL. But there you get one factor that's also important which is wear and aggitation resistant with doing that. And use a chemical that the LSP is made to handle gives a little honest results from it.

/ Tony
Click to expand...

No worries Tony, and actually thank you for the constructive feedback. That's the way it should be done. In a calm and polite manner, we can have these open discussions. Next video will be even better. ;)
 
392hemi said:
Thank you very much for the video and tests you have been doing. I know it takes a lot of time, effort and money to do these. We really appreciate your feedback and tests.

If you dont mind, perhaps throw in a "traditional" readily available ceramic coating in the mix? Just so we can see the benefit/durability of an actual coating vs the newer spray ones?
Click to expand...


Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate that!
 
if you were to rank these in durability which is number 1 from your hands on experience?
 
Cruzscarwash said:
if you were to rank these in durability which is number 1 from your hands on experience?
Click to expand...

I don't like commenting on durability (other than the manufacturers claims) until I personally test them long term. I have applied the products to a couple vehicles now and we're dead smack in a crazy winter here in Canada, so it will be nice for me to report in 6 months. The Meguiar's and Adam's are way too new to the market for anyone to have real world results for long term durability yet. They were both new items unveiled at SEMA, and the Meg's has been in some hands since December, and this Adam's, to my knowledge, only since January. Time will tell.

Bead Maker typically lasts an average of 2 months for me. I expect the Meguiar's to last about as much as their Ultimate Fast Finish, which for me is 5 to 6 months. And for the Adam's, they claim 6 to 8 months, so I also expect somewhere in the range of 5 months.
 
OrangeVee said:
I 100% agree with you on that as it's the same for me. Although my viewers wanted to see this chemical resistance test, that point is lowest on the priority scale for me as the most important factors in my case are gloss and slickness. For durability and resistance to chemicals, I have base layers of ceramic coatings that are there for those duties (good coatings will resits chemicals in the range of pH 2-3 all the way up to 12-13 on the pH scale). So for maintenance washes, I like to use good toppers that will boost gloss and slickness, like Bead Maker or CarPro Reload, Kamikaze Over Coat, etc.
Click to expand...

Are you planning on doing any videos featuring Kamikaze Over Coat on the durability/chemical tests? I've used Kamikaze OC for a while with pretty decent results but I would love to see it go head to head with the mainstream SiO2 sprays such as Meguiar's HCW and TW Seal n Shine.
 
ScionTC1283 said:
Are you planning on doing any videos featuring Kamikaze Over Coat on the durability/chemical tests? I've used Kamikaze OC for a while with pretty decent results but I would love to see it go head to head with the mainstream SiO2 sprays such as Meguiar's HCW and TW Seal n Shine.
Click to expand...

Haven’t seen Pan on here in a long while. Might get a better answer on posting on one of his video’s

I can tell you durability may not be much longer. But has for water behavior (beading and rolling off). OC slaughters those two.

I have not used Somax PNS and would love to see a head to head of those two.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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