Vinyl Racing Stripes on 2008 Mustang

[5.4 Shelby]

I searched for this and found the following answer from Killrwheels. I assume that is my answer, but, wanted to verify.

I would never polish over any type of pinstripping or vinyl applications. Use blue painters masking tape to stop any overrun while polishing. I would apply a good pure sealant or pure wax (none with cleaners) to provide some additional UV protection however. Just remember to use sparingly and dont leave and wax/sealant in the outside lining.

I have a 2008 Shelby GT500. Performance White with Vista Blue VINYL stripes. The stripes are starting to show some minor toweling marks. I keep them well coated with wax, but, some marks are inevitable.

My question is: IS there any way to polish them? I have a PC and an assortment of LC pads (blue and gray are my softer ones). I don't want to mar them, but, would like to be able to remove some of the marks. I asked Griots garage the same question about 6 months ago. They recommended a plastic polish with the PC. I'm just not comfortable with that until I hear it from a professional detailer.

Any help would be appreciated. Even if the answer is don't touch them with polish. Don't know why Ford had to use vinyl in the first place (cost of course).

Thanks.

Kevin.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

A number of years ago I wrote this article called,

What it means to remove a defect or scratch out of anything

I wrote it because so many people come to our detailing classes asking a similar question only instead of being a vinyl stripe it could be, fill in the blank,

• Chrome wheel in other words the chrome coating
• Plastic door sill
• Stainless steel door sill
• Stainless steel trim
• Plastic trim
• Glass
• Paint (of course)
• All types of plastic

and on and on and on....

The jist of the article goes on to say that the way you remove a defect that is below the surface of any coating or material is to remove a portion of the material surrounding the defect until the surface is level.

The problem with this is that,

"Some materials and coatings don't lend themselves well to being abraded with the end results looking good"

That's actually a quote as I've typed it and spoken for years now.

Can't go into detail as I have another project to move onto, suffice to say you cannot remove scratches out of vinyl stripes because vinyl doesn't lend itself well to be abraded with the end results looking good or looking original.

To have a product to apply that seems to make it look good try out the Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer.

I've written extensively on this on MOL in the "Hot Topics" forum group.

 

[5.4 Shelby]

Thanks Mike. I understand the principle of "leveling" the surface. I had just hoped that the vinyl would respond to a mild polish like a plastic polish. The vinyl actually kinda looks like it has a clear coat on it.

I will try some of the trim detailer and try to remain extra cautious with the stripes when washing and quick detailing.

btw, what is MOL?

 

[Shane731]

Thanks Mike. I understand the principle of "leveling" the surface. I had just hoped that the vinyl would respond to a mild polish like a plastic polish. The vinyl actually kinda looks like it has a clear coat on it.

I will try some of the trim detailer and try to remain extra cautious with the stripes when washing and quick detailing.

btw, what is MOL?

MOL= Meguiar's Online

Instead of waxing, why don't you use a product like Optimum Opti-Seal? You just wipe it on with a foam applicator and walk away. No buffing is required.


[video=youtube_share;DaLOgeYEvQA] - Applying Optimum Opti-Seal[/video]

 

[5.4 Shelby]

Thanks Shane. I will look into it.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's a pretty good article that talks about working on vinyl graphics...

How To Maintain Vinyl Graphics/Stickers/Stripes/Decals


This is an all original 1982 Corvette with a large vinyl graphic sticker on the hood and sides that were dull and faded before the detail job. After washing and drying, I applied and gently worked in a coat of Gold Class Trim Detailer to the vinyl and let it penetrate while the paint was machine cleaned, polished and waxed. After everything was done the graphics were carefully wiped clean to remove any excess product using a clean, soft microfiber. It did a great job of restoring a clear, rich look to the graphics.

 

[5.4 Shelby]

I will give it a try. Should I not wax them and even go as far as to remove the wax? I have some Paint Prep from Griots.

A friend of mine had a Vette just like that in High School (somewhat of a spoiled child). IIRC it was an anniversary edition.

Thanks again Mike. I have been and will be spending hours reading your how-to articles.

 

[Matt]

Nice, that trim detailer seems like good stuff.

I personally would try 303 Aerospace. It works so well on everything, and I would *assume* that it would also work well on vinyl graphics.