was my paint ruined by "tree sap"?

M

megothers

New member
Apr 19, 2014
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So, I have a 1994 Honda Accord which sat under some trees that shed sap (or bug poop, whatever) all over it, in addition to lots of bird poop. The sap looked like a million tiny dots covering the car. The car sat like this for several months before I got it, and I've been trying to get the paint looking better ever since, to no avail.

I washed the car and clay bar-ed it meticulously, which removed the bumps completely (it's siiiilky smooth now), but the dots are still visible, as if the paint was stained. The dots are a lighter color compared to the rest of the paint. I tried rubbing the dots out with meguiars polishing compound and a terry pad, but it didn't help. I gave up and just waxed the car... Now the car is smooth as a baby's bottom, and the paint looks nice and shiny and has depth to it where there aren't dots, but the light colored dots remain.

There are also some spots where I was able to buff out most of the bird poop etchings, however some remain (some seem raised, like I might be able to remove them with an abrasive, however it looks like some are indented and may have eaten away the paint).

Does anyone have any advice for me with regards to removing either type of bird dookie etching (raised or indented), or getting rid of those dots? Is it possible that the bits of sap actually ate away the clearcoat/paint since it was left on for so long? Any advice is appreciated.

Btw, I tried using the regular bottle of meg's "polishing compound," I've read about m105/205 but I have never seen that label and I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I can upload pics if that would help. Thanks
 
Use a product like poorboys bird sh#t remover and a microfibre as soon as it is possible to clean it when its fresh.

I had similar problems with customers audi's, BMWs and Hondas but I was able to wash, clean and seal the paint before the clear coat was destroyed.
 
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One pic shows one of the bird poop etchings, the other shows what's leftover of the dots after I removed the sap with a clay bar.
 
The dots and etchings don't look quite so bright in person, the picture really emphasizes the contrast between them and the paint
 
What exactly do you mean I'll have to "compound/polish"? I already tried to use meg's "polishing compound," should I try their more aggressive rubbing compound? Or the "ultimate" compound? And would using an orbital sander with polishing wheel be better than by hand?
 
megothers said:
What exactly do you mean I'll have to "compound/polish"? I already tried to use meg's "polishing compound," should I try their more aggressive rubbing compound? Or the "ultimate" compound? And would using an orbital sander with polishing wheel be better than by hand?
Click to expand...

Polishing by machine is faster and easier than polishing by hand.

You might need to wet sand in order to remove them. I would also measure the thickness of the paint before you start sanding anything. This is not exactly an easy job.
 
megothers said:
What exactly do you mean I'll have to "compound/polish"? I already tried to use meg's "polishing compound," should I try their more aggressive rubbing compound? Or the "ultimate" compound? And would using an orbital sander with polishing wheel be better than by hand?
Click to expand...

Take a nice strong compound and hit that sucker with a wool pad on rotary buffer and then use medium pad on rotary with swirl remover. Then use a foam finishing pad with some finer polish then seal.. I use wizards supreme seal and shine master. After a few days of curing.. apply a nice thin coat of carnauba :) have fun

Sent from my EVO using AG Online
 
Is the $30 rotary buffer at AutoZone worth getting? Or can I rent a better one from somewhere? I have a dremel tool, are there any good attachments for that I could buy or would a real rotary buffer be preferable? I'd like to try this before attempting to wet sand it.
 
swanicyouth said:
Probably not. :(
Click to expand...

What would a good option be for an entry-level-but-not-POS buffer? I'm not a detailer obviously, it will probably get minimal use so I don't need snap-onquality or anything but I don't want it to be ineffective or break right awayeither.
 
Haha! I wish... I live in the city otherwise they would meet my fake mossy, aka maverick 88 (i waste my money on 1911s lol).

Seriously though, any suggestions for a cheap-ish but dependable buffer/polisher?
 
Actually, I have a dremel rotary tool but it seems like I wouldn't be able to apply enough pressure without breaking it...

I also have an angle grinder though... Could I take the shroud that covers half of the wheel off and get a polishing wheel that fits? I'd prefer to not have to buy a new tool but I guess if that's the only option, I will
 
I got a $50 DA Buffer from Advance about 4 years ago. Been playing with it, and it's not worth it. Don't bother with a Dremel, either. Hit a rental place and get a decent dual action polisher...don't try to use a rotary.

For that matter, take it to a pro and have it done right. It's easy to screw something up polishing things. I don't say that to be rude...I say that because there's a lot that goes into it.
 
I would pay a pro for a new car, but this 20 year old Honda just isn't worth it.

So an angle grinder with a polishing wheel won't do? If not I'll get a proper da from harbor freight or rent one. What is "mf cutting"... a type of attachment/polishing wheel?
 
I read up a bit more and decided to give the meg's da power system (drill attachment) a shot. Got some megs ultimate compound, taped off a test spot on the hood, and went at it with 50% overlapping passes @1700rpm (i made 6 section passes). It made a HUGE difference... The dots aren't completely gone, but I'd say it removed about 85% of them and what's left is much less noticeable.
 
awesome! now get HF DA and some pads and a good backing plate.. welcome to this world and no looking back now!
 
Now I gotta find a super oxidized old bmw e30/34/36 for cheap so I can compound/polish the **** out of it!
 
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